Is there a thread that discusses a process and/or product used to remove swirl marks and other light blemishes from clear, hard plastic parts (such as side markers and parking/tail lenses)? I searched, albeit, quickly, for it but didn't have any luck.

Thanks

 

There are some plastic polishes available for headlight covers and convertable top windows.

 

I was wondering if you could spray clear paint over it, it'd fill in imperfections and leave it glossy and clear.

Why not test it out on a totally broken lens, see if it works.

Paint formulated for plastic probably best, if possible to obtain in clear.

 

'Swirl' marks are usually an indication of stress fracturing in the lense. That means it's time to replace it soon. You can try headlight restoring products as indicated above, but if you're describing what I think you are it won't help.

 

I think the swirls are the fine scratches from years of washing. If this is the case, start out by making sure the lens is clean. Proceed to using a liquid polishing compound such as 3M Perfect It II on a cotton rag or old t-shirt. Don't use the white paste compounds as they are too abrasive. You might have to do it a few times. The final polishing would be to use Plastic Polish and it's sold by Mothers or McGuires I believe.

If you have any scratces that are more than just a light scratch, this process will not get rid of it and it may be easier to find a better lens.

Brian

 

That is correct.

Thanks for the tip.

 

I used motorcycle metal polish called simichrome on a speedo lens that was difficult to see thru becasue of the amount of scratches on it. The majority of the scratches were around the perimeter of the lens from cleaning it over the years. it was so bad I was just going to throw it out. After using the simichrome on it a couple times it was so clear I did the other lenses that were previously good enough not to bother w until I compared them to my newly polished lens

I just used the simichrome and a cotton rag

 

go to your local glass shop and see if they carry a product called Novus.

here is a link so you can read about the product and see them fyi.

http://www.eplastics.com/Plastic_Polish

I've used the #2 for many,many years and I love it. I'm not a distributor nor do I have anything to do w/ the company,just love the product and the great job it does and it's easy to use.

However, on old plastic, that stuff does tend to get brittle over time and exposure to the sun. There isn't much you can do about that as well as when it begins to "yellow".

 

Mike,
Maguires also makes a protective plastic finish called PlastX. It has to be really buffed almost to a hot state to work really well though. I used this on my tag light lens after I had used oven cleaner to get rid of most of the surface aging and rust from the screws. This is just one more product for the market to choose from.

 

I did my parking light lenses with metal polish first, then Meguiers's paint polish (no wax) next. Came out very nice!
I have also restored scratched up CDs and plastic gauge lenses with the paint polish.

Best to try it on a little area first to see how abrasive or not the polish is...

 

My speedometer lens needs some lovin' too!

I think this is exactly what i'm going to do, it saves me going out and looking for one that "might" work.

Simichrome, probably not available in Canada, anything else you guys can think of??

 

Tony - the Maguires PlastX works great on those lenses. Just put some elbow grease into it. I have a set of brand new lenses for my car. When I take out my old ones, I'll see about shipping them to you. They are in very good shape.

 

+1 for Plastix. My daily driver had a clear lens in the dash that was pitted from getting Mother's VLR on it. The pits were deep enough you could catch a nail on them. After about 30 minutes of vigorous buffing with Plastix on a microfiber towel, it was literally as good as new. I probably could have gotten done faster if I'd started off with something more aggressive, but this method made me feel safe that I wouldn't do any damage. Just be prepared that you have to keep at it for a while and put plenty of elbow grease into it.

 

I started using the Novus #2 many years ago on the plexi windshields of my motorcycle. On the plexi bike windshields it worked wonders on light scratches and the #3 did a great job on the heavier stuff that would happen from riding. The #2 not only helps polish out swirls and light scratches but it also works like a car polish and allows water to bead....for a short peroid.

It's a product that was designed for those in the glass industry and work with plexi products, that's why I suggested a local glass shop.

When headlight lenses on cars started being made of plastic,I started using it on them, this was many years before the surge of stuff out on the market now. If I had some foresight I probably could have cornered the market rebranding it somehow.

I use it on all my taillights a couple times a year and while nothing will really help plastic that gets sandblasted it's good on the low mounted driving lights I have that get fouled up from driving. Also, the plexi speedo cover in most modern cars that get those light scratches on them,it leaves a nice clear view.

 

Elbow grease is free, and i've got lots of it

Cool, can i find that at Canadian Tire? I'll pick up a bottle and see what i can do. My lenses are pretty good, but the more and more i drive the car, the more i notice the little tiny scratches around the corners.

 

We do have a glass company up here called Novus Windshield repair. I think they specialize in repairing small chips/cracks or replacing the window glass. I'll phone them and find out if they have that product. I'm always open to new ideas and products

Yes. I would also suggest that when you're done with the lens you rinse in cold water and blast it with compressed air to ensure no streaking. Handle with nitrile gloves to eliminate any finger print possibility. I've found that cold water rinse removes most of the static charge that may be on the lens from the elbow grease. Air blast is just a better way of drying. If not air, then a micro fibre cloth so it doesn't scratch.

 

this is a old thread but for future use read this and save some money. I have worked on older model cars for sale in the past and sometimes you can use tape and a light polish and a buffer to clear headlights. I believe in muti tasking products at home like several cars etc to save my total costs. things can get expensive period. this product can also be used for polishing of your baby or daily driver experience is where it is at for everything and we help each other with it. we all want to put the money where it belongs and not waste it,This means quicker completion of our cars and more efficiency too.

 

You're suggesting using the light restore liquid to polish the car with? I know that light restorer will not have any effect on my 72 glass headlights. It does work on rear plastic ones in reasonable condition, but you have to be really careful because of the lens design.

 

I think maybe i should explain this process. I have used regular 3m polish to polish lenses marker lights and headlights before with dam good sucess. I used tape around the edges if the part was on the car truck etc. I also hand polished areas where i could not get a polishing or buffing wheel. This will save cost if perserved carefully,The polish can also be used on the body like it was intended for from the beginning and first discovered we have as a group evolved and found other uses for it.

 

I've managed to save plastic parts that others would throw out. A few years ago I found a nice 4 spoke Chevy steering wheel in a 65 Cutlass at the wrecking yard but the center SS emblem looked to be ruined as some genius had extinguished a lit cigarette in it. The damage was pretty deep from the burn but the emblem plastic is fairly thick as it forms a bubble shape. I sanded it down until the burn was gone with 3 progressive grits, then used Meguiar's clear plastic cleaner #17 and their polish #10. It looked new when I was done and I used the SS center on my 69 SS Nova. I just used these same 2 products to restore the tail light lenses for my 67 Cutlass project and had out standing results. If you're careful when wet sanding there is nothing to fear. Go slow and check your work often if you are worried about messing up the surface, just like you would with paint. The BIG advantage of using the Meguiar's products over chrome polish, rubbing or polishing compound is there is no residue and the plastic polish #10 is paint shop safe, completely paintable so it won't interfere with the trim paint at all. This stuff is so good I've actually used it to take scratches out of music CDs that skipped. I've made the gauge lenses in all my cars look like new with this stuff and polished plastic convertible top windows that where completely fogged. This stuff is great! You guys should really check it out. For more serious damage they have a Mirror Glaze defect removal system they sell too but I haven't used it.