mitchy

So this August I was at the OCA meet in Harrisburg and I purchased the inlinetube disc brake conversion kit for my 70 cutlass S which included the master cylinder, booster, all brake lines, proportioning vlave, calipers, rotors, spindles, mounting hardware, bearings and dust caps as well as instructions. The kit cost 550 to buy directly from the vendor at the meet. The kit has an easy approach when you open and view everything. The races are already in the rotors, the calipers and master cylinder are painted to avoid the rust as well as the spindles. Also, the calipers come pre assembled. To begin with new spindle assembly, they fit right out of the box to the original control arm setup nicely the only modification I needed to make to it was I needed to sand down the portions where the bearings go ( the instructions do tell you to check the fit of them and that sanding may need to be done). After that I installed the backing plate and caliper bracket. For this I needed the holes for the steering arm drilled out a little bigger on the backing plate as well as some grinding for the caliper mouting bracket on the back because it hit the spindle and didn't allow for the speering arm hole to line up. That work was only needed for the drivers side, the passenger's side went together without needing any fabrication. A side note here is that, for the kit you will need to use the steering arms from your old assembly as the new kit does not include them. Also the kit includes new nuts and bolts for the sterring arm attachment to the spindle but they had a little play and I didn't like that so I cleaned the old ones And they fit more securely so I used them instead. Next, we installed the booster and master cylnder which fit perfectly with no problems. Another bonus is that the master cylinder supplied has the bleeder screws on top of the line connections which makes future bleeding needs easy. Furthermore, lets talk about the brake lines. They come in a separate box and the one that runs along the frame rail to the t block ontop of the diff housing comes bent and needs to be rolled out into shape which was very easy to do. Also, the line that runs under the engine to the passenger side has a minor shipping bend which needs to be straightened out. The line that runs along the frame rail to the soft line of the t block fit perfectly with no issues in my case. In addition, the line that connects the rear line to the proportioning valve fit easily. Next, The line to the drivers side caliper soft line fit perfectly as well. Now the lines I encountered that needed fabrication were the ones that went from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve, and the one that runs under the engine to the passenger's side caliper soft line. The ones from the master cylinder I found that the bends were made just a hair too short so we used a tubing bender to partially open the bend then make the bend occur a little further down for it to line up with the proportioning valve. With those lines sloved we move onto the one that runs under the engine. This one was a little trickier and required twisting where it met the passenger side frame rail in order for it to fit into the original mounting clip position. Once that was bent right it bolted up to the proportioning valve nicely. Quick side note about the mounting clips, in my case I had to open them up more because the new line had a bigger diameter then the old line, and I was only able to use one of the two clips that mount it to the engine cross member. With the lines bent we move onto bench bleeding the master cylinder and tightening everything down. With the brakes nicely bleed I have a much firmer pedal and a much better stopping expirence. Overall im very happy with the kit, and it all went together pretty smoothly with minimal issues. I would reccomend this kit for anyone looking for the same thing.



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