Bad case of the MAW!!!!
#1
Bad case of the MAW!!!!
Rob sign me up for one of you special MAW hats.... Well it bit me, swapped out the master cylinder and i figured while i was at it.... Mine as well swap out the brake hoses. Well lets just say i upgraded from the MAW to the oh S%*#t department. I twisted off the steel line.
So I MAW swap out the whole brake line kit LMAO.
What you guys think about this kit or is there a better one?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RSD-AKT6801S/
So I MAW swap out the whole brake line kit LMAO.
What you guys think about this kit or is there a better one?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RSD-AKT6801S/
#3
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
YAY, we're not alone!!! I know exactly how you feel about that line. I did the same to my 98. Tell us you used your flare nut wrenches......
Sicky, that kit looks ok, not bad pricing either. I got my kit from ILT through a member here and got a great one time discount. But it was for ALL the lines, not just the front.
Do you run discs or drums? ILT has the front drum lines for 20.00 / set
I don't know what summitt sells - whether they're made offshore or not. But ILL makes their own stuff in the USA. Their full brake line kit (front / back) for 69 ranges from 145-155 depending on power drum or disc.
Sicky, that kit looks ok, not bad pricing either. I got my kit from ILT through a member here and got a great one time discount. But it was for ALL the lines, not just the front.
Do you run discs or drums? ILT has the front drum lines for 20.00 / set
I don't know what summitt sells - whether they're made offshore or not. But ILL makes their own stuff in the USA. Their full brake line kit (front / back) for 69 ranges from 145-155 depending on power drum or disc.
#4
Okay, Sick - got one in the mail for ya!!
Sure hope you tended to the booster, too.
Did you know it might be easier to get those lines off with the body removed from the frame?
<running for the virtual bomb shelter...>
Sure hope you tended to the booster, too.
Did you know it might be easier to get those lines off with the body removed from the frame?
<running for the virtual bomb shelter...>
#5
I guess i will just redo the whole brake system as well lol. But seriously i am not removing the body from the frame. That is along time out on the plans lol. So we agree this is a good line to get? I will see about getting the rear line as well and the brake booster... Well it was fun driving the car while it was running lol but it seems like it will be a little bit for that again lol...
#6
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
The booster is a real PITA to get out if you have the inner liners still on. Those 4 nuts and 1 bolt are in the stupidist place. You'll need either a really long wrench or a double wrench comination to get the bottom ones off. 1/8 turn, curse, realign wrench, 1/8 turn.....soooo much fun
#7
#10
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
You can unbolt the MC and have someone hold it while you pop out the old booster and put in the new one or you can support it. I replaced mine because it had blown the rear piston seal.
#11
It's an easy changeout. 4 nuts, 1 bolt, clevis pin, vacuum line. Just takes a bit of time (2+hours). If the booster is still working, you can leave it till later. Its all about what you want to do now vs what you HAVE to do now. $$ is also a factor.
You can unbolt the MC and have someone hold it while you pop out the old booster and put in the new one or you can support it. I replaced mine because it had blown the rear piston seal.
You can unbolt the MC and have someone hold it while you pop out the old booster and put in the new one or you can support it. I replaced mine because it had blown the rear piston seal.
If I am going to be replacing lines then the MC will need to become unplugged i thought. So i can do it then. But looking at money things i might just have to wait and do it at the first of the month (when my alotment for car comes in). This also depends on if i can fix my stoopid Daily Driver (clutch went out again lol).
#12
Sicky,
My booster is the ugliest thing under my hood right now...
I really just want to get a new MC and Booster, as Allan knows, i've been "Thinking" about it for about 2 months....
Take a look at this pic, the booster sticks out like a sore thumb
Here's what it originally used to look like
My booster is the ugliest thing under my hood right now...
I really just want to get a new MC and Booster, as Allan knows, i've been "Thinking" about it for about 2 months....
Take a look at this pic, the booster sticks out like a sore thumb
Here's what it originally used to look like
#13
My booster doesnt look bad, its painted black from when i got it so it doesnt stick out too much... I think i am going to hold off on the booster for a little bit thinking about it. Just get the brake lines replace them and then do the booster later. Thinking about buying a house of my own here in San Antonio, so i will have a place to keep my cars if i get orders or even if i get out i have my own place and not renting from someone lol. Either way, I will have my own space to store both cars
#14
My booster doesnt look bad, its painted black from when i got it so it doesnt stick out too much... I think i am going to hold off on the booster for a little bit thinking about it. Just get the brake lines replace them and then do the booster later. Thinking about buying a house of my own here in San Antonio, so i will have a place to keep my cars if i get orders or even if i get out i have my own place and not renting from someone lol. Either way, I will have my own space to store both cars
Are you going to buy the lines or bend them yourself?
I bought a spool of brake line for 30 dollars a couple years ago and did everything from the master-back with a tube bender and piece of clothes hanger.
I might just remove my booster, wirebrush it and paint it until i have more money to replace it.
#15
If you look in my first post i have a link for what i am going to buy. The price isnt too bad, and i will just do the rear lines at a different time if it doesnt come with it. Only reason i am considering this now is because i broke the one line and the MAW kicked in lol. That and instead of pulling a line off of a parts car that we have we can do this...
#16
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
If I am going to be replacing lines then the MC will need to become unplugged i thought. So i can do it then. But looking at money things i might just have to wait and do it at the first of the month (when my alotment for car comes in). This also depends on if i can fix my stoopid Daily Driver (clutch went out again lol).
If you look in my first post i have a link for what i am going to buy. The price isnt too bad, and i will just do the rear lines at a different time if it doesnt come with it. Only reason i am considering this now is because i broke the one line and the MAW kicked in lol. That and instead of pulling a line off of a parts car that we have we can do this...
When I was younger and was faced with the same decisions, I went for the security of the house. Now that I'm retired, I have no mortgage, no bills, time and some saved up $$ to spend on the car. Long as the car is stored someplace decent, it's not going to fall apart or feel sad you're not working on it. I think the key was what you said about when you could afford to do stuff. Don't let us motivate you beyond where you need to be, ok?
#17
CT out here sells brake line in spools if you go out in the farm regions where they work on tractors and stuff. They also sell seadoo gas tank floats and other odds and ends.
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