I see a lot of posts asking about a front drum to disc conversion on 68-72 A-Body. I was looking for the easiest solution and honestly, I after how many times and how much money was spent on rebuilding the front drums over the years, I wish I found this kit sooner. Had this kit for a while and was going to pay to have someone install it but lack of funds and the desire to drive my car again got me to just take a stab at it myself and I am glad.

The kit includes everything you need to convert the front drums to discs using the stock drum spindles. It comes with a caliper mounting adapter plate. The only modification that caught me off guard was I needed to drill out the top spindle mounting hole 1.25" deep to 37/64 and tap it to 5/8-18NF. It was pretty easy with cutting oil and cordless drill. Found the bit and tap on Amazon for $17 total. It includes braided steel lines and fittings as well which is not shown in the last picture.

I learn as I go and this was easy enough for me to get done over a couple weekends, watching a couple videos and reading the instructions. Someone with experience can probably get it done in 3 hours.

 

Seems like an easy conversion, BUT...

The Wilwood Dynalite calipers have an effective piston area of only 4.80" according to their website. The stock calipers with a single 2.75" piston have a piston area of 5.94". That's 20% less braking force at each wheel as compared to the stock calipers.

 

Looks good nicely done. Now drive!

 

Since it’s a drum to disc conversion I think the question is how much better will it be than drums?
interested to hear more on this

 

After all this work and expense, I'm sure the "butt G-meter" will register an improvement.
Without back-to-back-to-back testing with drums, Wilwood, and OEM discs, any subjective evaluation is, well, purely subjective.

 

I have only done short distance testing in my garage but I will take it out later today. I am not sure if it will be a huge improvement over the drum set up. I had to repair the front drums 4 times and it would always end up with a soft pedal after a few months. Even if stopping is the same, I really just want a reliable brake setup until I can put more money into the car. So far my pedal is stiffer than its ever been.

The kit can be found for 474$ shipped

 

Joe, from my understanding, 67-68 A-Body also had an option for a 4-piston caliper. Do you know the piston area for the OEM 4-piston setup? I think that would be a better comparison to this kit.

 

The 67-68 A-body calipers used pistons that were 2.0625" diameter. The Dynalite caliper pistons are 1.75" diameter. The OEM four piston calipers actually have about 12% more piston area than the single piston 69-77 calipers and about 30% more area than the Dynalite calipers. With the same pedal pressure and the same master cylinder diameter, more caliper piston area directly translates into more brake clamping force.

The Dynalite calipers DO compare favorably to the G-body calipers. Those use a single 2.375" piston, which gives 4.43 sq in of piston area, as compared to 4.80 sq in for the Dynalite. The A-body calipers have much more area, however.

 

Thank you for the detailed reply. I took the car out to the gas station and started the brake pad bedding process from the instructions. So far it is quick and responsive. It feels like my drums when they were freshly done. That feeling always faded away over a few months. Time will tell if this stays solid. Overall I am happy for the price and time put in. And I get to drive my car again.

 

You never mentioned whether or not you installed a proportioning valve and new master?
Where did you buy this for $474?
thanks

 

I did not have to change anything with the master or the proportioning valve. Just installed everything in the kit, flushed out the old fluid and replaced it with the 570 degree hi temp fluid they require.

I got it from Jegs with a $100 off $500 promo. Summit and Jegs have that promo all the time.

 

So you didn't change the M/C from a drum brake unit, or replace the distribution block with a prop valve?

 

Brake distance testing in the garage. I love it!

 

None of that. This kit is meant to be a direct swap with the existing drum system. Wilwood offers nice master cylinder but I didn't need it.

From their website "Classic Series FDL-M kits can be used with either manual or power boost master cylinders, and come complete with calipers, rotors, brackets, hardware, braided steel line kit and detailed installation instructions."

 

I am parked 3 floors underground. Making the best with my resources. 😁

 

6 Piston and I do stop ! Wilwood all the way around.

Yes Wilwood master and portion valved

 

This is the route I am going to go when I am ready to drop some cash. My dream is to do a frame off build from the ground up. I want to go with a UMI stage 5 and floater setup on the rear. I learn by experience so doing a frame off would really put me through a lesson worth learning. One day I will make it happen.

 

Phew! I was thinking normal two car residential garage. Planned on submitting this for a Darwin Award.

 

How would that even work Unfortunately I live the city life.