This may be a 101 question, but I haven't done much brake work before. While inspecting the shoes on my 57 88, I notice the passenger side shoes appear to have plenty of life left, and the drums look good. On the driver's side, however, the front shoes (and drum) and deeply scored and scratched, and one of the rear shoes is worn very low. Can I get by just replacing the driver's side shoes (and one drum), or should I replace the shoes on all four corners?

 

I think replace the shoes on both sides and the front drum, if you can find one.
If you have to machine the scored drum, get both front drums machined to the same size.
Check the rear shoes.
Also check for leaking wheel brake cylinders.

 

Brake shoes are cheap enough to go ahead and do both sides. Save the ones that are still good as spares. If the drums are not warped I would not get them machined. A scored drum will not harm brake shoes. Make sure you get a more even adjustment when you’re done.

 

Thanks. I'm rebuilding/replacing the wheel cylinders, too.

 

I wonder why the drivers side is completely worn out and the passengers side is still OK?

 

Probably due to misadjusted brakes, there are no self adjusters.

 

Replace the shoes on both sides, replace both brake hoses, resurface and/or replace both drums as needed. Clean and pack the wheel bearings. Renew the grease seals.

It will stop straighter if both drums are the same ID as the contact patch between the shoe and the drum will be the same.

 

You might have to find a fly-by-night shop to turn the drums. Especially if they're close to the maximum ID. Even after turning the drums there may be gouges if the old shoes were riveted. If the drums are gouged after turning post a pic. It'd probably be a good idea to replace them.

 

 

Probably because there was no brake fluid getting to the right front wheel.
The left front brake was doing all the braking.
This could be due to a collapsed or blocked 67 year old hose?
Or maybe collapsed or damaged steel tubing?

Back in '57 they didn't have size limits marked on the drums.
.090 is the generally accepted oversize limit on drums.
I believe these are 11 inch drums, so you should be OK taking them to 11.090 oversize if you have to.
I wouldn't worry about having both drums the same size.
The less you cut on them the better.

 

Replacing brake shoes in sets ensures friction material is the same to help prevent brakes from pulling to one side or the other.

I think front drums are the same from 53 thru 58.

Ron

 

No,
The front drums are the same for '57 and '58 only.
See group 6.306.

 

Thank you all for the input!

 

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Interesting, but I think I'll stick with the generic shoes.

 

i always thought a scored/gauged drum was bad news. The shoes on this wheel are also scored but seem to have quite a bit of material left. My first thought was that the scored drum caused that damage, but maybe not? Would love to get away without resurfacing the drum (since I'm having a hard time finding someone capable). Just curious how a scored drum won't harm the shoes.

 

Minor scoring from rivets will not harm the shoes. The shoes will just conform into the scoured slot over time. Again, I don't cut or replace drums unless they are warped. A lot of auto parts stores still have brake lathes, I like to watch to ensure they take as little metal off as required to just get them trued.

 

Thanks for the explanation.

 

Here's a few things I know, having worked in an automotive machine shop.
Drums should always be machined when replacing shoes.
You want a smooth even surface for the new shoes to break in on.
To avoid uneven braking and noise.
The "lip" at the edge of the drum should always be machined off.
The minimum amount of metal should be removed.
Deep scores, caused by rivets, may be allowable.
The last cut should be a fine cut of .001 in or so. At the slowest feed possible.
This gives a nice smooth finish.
A rubber belt should always be wrapped around the drum to avoid "chattering" of the tool.
Causing a rough surface.
It also wouldn't hurt to sand the machined surface with 80 grit sandpaper to further smooth the finish.