Proportioning valve and distribution block 72 cutlass

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old August 9th, 2012, 10:44 PM
  #1  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Team13Racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 3
Proportioning valve and distribution block 72 cutlass

Looking to install a line lock on my 72 cutlass. Ive upgraded the front brakes to disc and replaced my master cylinder and booster with and 8" Dual diaphragm and proper disc drum MC, as well as a prop valve.
This is the line lock I want to install. Im a little confused on proper plumbing. Do I still use the frame mounted distribution block and just do some capping? This is the MC BB combo ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 . The summit directions dont make sense unless I use the dist. block along with my prop valve. Instructions here I could figure it out on my own by trial and error, but if someone has some insite I would appreciate it very much.

Earlier progress pic from our build just for fun, we are getting alot closer to running now.
guts.jpg
Team13Racing is offline  
Old August 9th, 2012, 11:04 PM
  #2  
Registered User
 
ah64pilot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 2,703
Here is the "improper" proper way to plumb a line lock with a dual function proportioning valve / distribution block:

MC (front brake line) to Line-Lock to proportioning valve. When you have the line lock engaged the factory "brake" light will light up in the gauge cluster notifying you that the front brakes and back brakes have a discrepancy. This tells you the line lock is working.

When you plumb it this way make sure you have a good bleed on the brakes as the differential pressure will offset the distribution block plunger isolating the back brakes. When you let off the switch, the residual pressure in the back system will push the plunger back into the "normal" operating position and turn off the light.

Look at my build link to see pictures of my installation and plumbing to get an idea:

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...umented-4.html
ah64pilot is offline  
Old August 10th, 2012, 09:24 PM
  #3  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Team13Racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 3
Do the lines from MC to lock to prop valve and MC to prop valve ( for rear brakes) need to be equal length?
Team13Racing is offline  
Old August 11th, 2012, 05:21 PM
  #4  
Old(s) Fart
 
joe_padavano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 47,669
Originally Posted by Team13Racing
Do the lines from MC to lock to prop valve and MC to prop valve ( for rear brakes) need to be equal length?
No, not at all. One word of caution. If you have a factory cast-iron combo valve, replace it with a brass one. The bore in the cast-iron valve can rust. This can cause the differential pressure piston to stick when the line loc pushes it all the way to one side.
joe_padavano is offline  
Old August 11th, 2012, 09:37 PM
  #5  
Registered User
 
ah64pilot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 2,703
Originally Posted by joe_padavano
No, not at all. One word of caution. If you have a factory cast-iron combo valve, replace it with a brass one. The bore in the cast-iron valve can rust. This can cause the differential pressure piston to stick when the line loc pushes it all the way to one side.
Agreed. If you plumb it this way everything needs to be working properly. The brass valves are nice, that's what I have on mine.
ah64pilot is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
oldspackrat
General Discussion
11
October 29th, 2017 07:38 PM
sicky olds
Parts Wanted
3
March 3rd, 2014 06:52 AM
garys 68
Brakes/Hydraulic Systems
10
September 18th, 2012 10:20 AM
dgy
Brakes/Hydraulic Systems
5
April 6th, 2012 11:03 AM
olds4life
Brakes/Hydraulic Systems
3
May 4th, 2011 09:57 AM



Quick Reply: Proportioning valve and distribution block 72 cutlass



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 02:23 PM.