smash72

upgrading my front discs spent a decent some on these Wilwoods. Still have original lines factory bent and comes out on the left side of caliper (passenger side of car) Two questions the old line I basicly took out a few bends and kinda got it to fit. I want to replace this line and rework it so it comes out on the right side then I can keep using the 10" flex line. Do they even make a pre fab for this everything I see is made like original (inline tube etc. ) I don't really have the tools towill send couple pics flare and bend so it won't leak or look like crap. I've tried with the little portable flare kits and hand benders not real happy the flares are eh ??? at best. So is there quality all flex I can use. Is there a company that I could maybe send a template too. I could get some "6 solid ground wire and make one send it to ??? Or am I just over complicating things get a new factory and get a 18" flex. Thoughts ?? Pics to follow

smash72

Pics of what I have so far new spindles and ball joints as well

smash72

Still haven't figured out how to get my pictures to post straight and yes trust me I e tried

joe_padavano

Is there a reason why you have the calipers mounted ahead of the spindles instead of behind them? If these are the 64-72 A-body spindles, the bolt pattern is symmetrical. You can simply swap the calipers and mounting brackets side-for-side and solve this problem.

Frankly, if you plan to do brake work, you need to learn how to flare tubing. It is trivially easy to make good flares. You DO NOT want to use all flex line. That is a really bad idea. The flex line expands slightly under pressure. The amount isn't noticeable if you only have short sections of flex, but long sections will cause mushy brakes.

smash72

I installed the calipers as per Wilwoods instructions and they specifically said front. I thought the same thing. I really don't plan on doing a lot of brake work and didn't really want to buy a quality flaring tool. I have the small portable one and they turn out ok. I can't seem to make them even all the way around end up using one out of three. I did the rear ones but they were pretty easy straight shots.
Is there any reason I can't flip the caliper ?

joe_padavano

The bleeder screw has to be up. Otherwise, you can't get the air out of the caliper. There is really no difference between mounting the caliper in front of the spindle or behind it. Factory is behind - mainly to clear the steering arms and linkage.

smash72

Sounds good to me and the mounting bracket certainly works both ways. Thx that's why I do all my asking here.

joe_padavano

FYI, your photos come out sideways in the thread, but if you click on them, the larger version opens right side up. Go figure.

smash72

I'm dealing with a slight rotor rub only in one little spot. Please tell me it's not the brand new rotor. If I back off the spindle nut it goes away however theres a little back and forth play if you pull on the entire assembly. How much if any play should there be. Bearings are all brand new and packed. Ready to tackle the other side so hopefully there's an adjustment to be made.
I carefully shimmed the caliper bracket took 3 tries to get it as close to perfect as I could. Got the rub when I needed to put the spindle nut on an extra turn to get the pin in.

joe_padavano

Somewhere between none and none.

Rubbing between what and what?

smash72

When I spin the installed rotor there's a slight rub has to be rubbing on the caliper just in one little spot. Adjusting with different shim combinations on the caliper bracket does not help. Now everything I'm reading says it's normal needs to be driven to seat properly.
Ok we're all gonna die I will be sure not to test on a big hill. Completing drivers side today hopefully, then bleed and test.

joe_padavano

I'm sorry but I'm still confused. Are you saying that rotor is out of round and only certain spots on the rotor are rubbing on the caliper? And is this actually rubbing on the metal part of the caliper and not on the pads?

If so, get a dial indicator and measure runout on the inside and outside surfaces of the rotor. If they are not true and not parallel to each other, figure out why.

66Icecube

76olds

The Wilwood calipers have bleeders on top and bottom for the dual piston .

76olds

I would leave the spindle nut just tight enough to get the cotter pin in . Once you pump the pressure up until the caliper pushes the pads to the rotor then release, spin the rotor. If you still find some drag you may need to turn the rotor depending on how much drag (warpage) you have along the rotor.
You may get away with just running the pads into the rotor, if you get some shakin' going on then you will need to skim the rotors.
I have the same calipers and similar rotors , I ran mine in, but I only had very little drag. It was more a pad issue in my case than a warped rotor.
Looking good!

Eric