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Hello,
I am installing the disc brake conversion for my 1969 442.
I'm trying to use the prebent brake lines, but can't figure out how they are supposed to route, especially on the drivers side.
Could anyone post a picture if they've done this conversion of their brake line set up?
Which conversion kit do you have? The OEM disc brakes did not use a proportioning valve. There was a cylindrical metering valve under the master cylinder and a distribution block in the same location on the frame as for drum brakes. The 1971-up cars incorporated the metering valve and prop valve into the combination valve that replaced the distribution block on the frame rail. Many aftermarket kits mount the combo valve in a non-stock location on a bracket under the M/C. Obviously the brake lines differ depending on which configuration you have.
Which conversion kit do you have? The OEM disc brakes did not use a proportioning valve. There was a cylindrical metering valve under the master cylinder and a distribution block in the same location on the frame as for drum brakes. The 1971-up cars incorporated the metering valve and prop valve into the combination valve that replaced the distribution block on the frame rail. Many aftermarket kits mount the combo valve in a non-stock location on a bracket under the M/C. Obviously the brake lines differ depending on which configuration you have.
‘Joe, do you know of a front disc conversion kit for 66 442 that will allow you to use the stock SS1 14” x 6” wheels?
Here's a couple photos of the factory setup Joe was describing. Do you have a little short line that could run from the master cylinder to the valve below it? If not, then you likely have something setup for the newer combination valve.
‘Joe, do you know of a front disc conversion kit for 66 442 that will allow you to use the stock SS1 14” x 6” wheels?
The stock 1966 SS I wheels will not clear OEM disc brakes. The aftermarket disc brake kit for this application uses a Pinto-sized 10" rotor (stock is 11") and smaller calipers. And don't get me started on the crappy flat plate caliper brackets. I wouldn't waste my money on one. If you want disc brakes, use OEM 69-72 or the equivalent repro aftermarket setup. Get later SS I wheels that clear.
This photo compares the 14" drum-only wheels (RH #2) with the 14" disc brake wheels (LH #1). In both cases inboard is to the right. Note how the rim of the disc brake wheels is shaped to clear the caliper.
That looks like a later model combination valve. The factory setup for that was to bolt the brass combination valve to the inside of the frame. The lines ran down from the master cylinder to the valve on the frame, from there it went to the front and back. John
Sorry, I don't have anything with the non-power disc brake setup. I can't say for sure where the lines would run. Here's a diagram from the Chassis Service Manual, but even there I'm seeing the power booster in all the drawings/diagrams. Upper right diagram
Little late to the party on this one. I used the right stuff kit on my 69 S. I kept the original distribution block on the frame and added the hold off valve and the pre-bent line kit from inline tube. My rear lines were still good so I didn't mess with anything except the fronts. The front lines all ran in the factory locations, I even reused the original clips on the passenger side line under the engine.
I run stock 68 SSII 14x6 wheels with no clearance issues. Hope this info helps someone down the line.
Last edited by joes_olds; Aug 7, 2025 at 07:26 PM.
I bought a Right Stuff disc brake upgrade kit for my '72 4-wheel drum car shortly after I bought the car in 2016 - I basically only ended up using the spndles since the other parts it came with didn't impress me. So ultimately I still have their spindles in place, but went with other brands for rotors, pads and calipers.
