I was thinking to replace the single mastercylinder with a dual Raybestos MC 36373 but it
says except Moraine ? I have Moraine MC in my -65 98. Will this MC 36373 fit ?

I search for an MC to an Cadillac DeVille 1966 who i have read here on CO.


I was thinking to keep the drumbrakes on the car.

 

RockAuto listings are not a reliable source of fitment info. In this case, the "Except MORAINE" notation applies to the intended Cadillac application, not your conversion. More importantly, it is completely incorrect. For the original Caddy application, the Moraine M/C attached with two bolts, the Bendix with four bolts. MC36373 is a two bolt M/C, so as far as the original Caddy application is concerned, that listing should say "Only fits Moraine Master Cylinder".

Original Caddy Bendix M/C





Original Caddy Moraine M/C





None of this means anything to your 1965 Olds. In your case, both the Bendix and the Moraine M/Cs were two-bolt mounting.

 

Thanks Joe for answer and pics about this .
I should order a MC 36-373 .

 

Hi i looked in this thread :

Dual MC upgrade - Planning - ClassicOldsmobile.com

and it seems that Toronado have 1/4" tube to the rear brakes , it is 3/16" to the rear
brakes in our 98 -65 . Maybe Toronado has a larger brake line size or is it wrong size
in our car ? Could not find brake line size in the Oldsmobile chassis manual.

 

GM used both 3/16" and 1/4" tubing for the line run to the rear of the car. The diameter is irrelevant. Once the brake system is bled, the difference in line diameter is meaningless. Don't lose a lot of sleep over this.

 

Thanks for info Joe , hope i get the mastercylinder from Rockauto this week. But must wait some weeks
for warmer weather before i start with this.

 

Removed the Moraine MC today , the brakelines sits hard in the juncion block. Was thinking to keep the lines
to the front wheels but we,ll se how it goes. Brake booster / rod looks better after cleaning.

 

Nice project! I'm thinking about doing the same with my '66 Toro (that was my thread that you linked). I have the master cylinder and just have to get the motivation together to start. Looking forward to lots of pics!

 

Hi , nice to hear from you . Should continue the days when weather is warmer. Have no heating in the garage.

 

I've been hitting the fittings at the junction block with penetrating oil for months now......just whenever the thought crosses my mind I'll throw a squirt or two down there. Hopefully they don't fight me too much.

The only question I've been mulling over is whether to use 1/4" line or 3/16" line from the MC to the junction block for the front brakes. I don't know if it matters too much. I'll definitely be using 1/4" line for the rear brakes as it will be straightforward connecting 1/4" to 1/4" line.

 

If the front lines don't loose i will cut them and make new lines from the juncion box to the front wheels.
I should use 1/4" tube from mc to both front and rear wheels. I think it looks better If both lines from the mc are the same size.

 

Tested the new MC , but i should bench bleed it and paint brakeboster first. I can feel the rod bottoms in the mc a little before it have contact to brake boster. But this did the old mc also.(maybe 1-2mm)

 

Looks great! Well done, hope the rest of the install goes well.

 

Hi took off the brakeline fittings to the rear brakes and the 1/4" from old mastercylinder from the juncion
block so only the front lines are still in the block. They sat very hard and i should close the connection to
the rear brakes with a 3/8 unf bolt and copper washer. Next step will be bleeding the new mc and mount
it and some new brake lines

 

That's not your best choice. Use a proper inverted flare plug.

 

Thanks for tip Joe , should se if i can find a inverted flare plug instead.

 

I was playing around with those junction block connections today as well. I don't love the fit of my line wrenches on the fittings. I think this is a clear cut case of using the best tool you can afford so I'm going to purchase a 3/8" x 7/16" Snap On line wrench just for this one job. I don't think anyone makes a better line wrench.

 

I cut off the brakelines so i could use a six point socket on the brake line fittings and a large wrench on the block to
support it when loosing the fittings. These brakelines should be replaced anyway so no need for saving them.

We,ll se what wrench to tighten the fittings with

 

Ordered one of these today , it was 3/8-24 female in the rear brake hose. So i could use 7/16-24 to the hose.

 

Has been a lot of other things to do but mounted the brakelines today to the 98. Should bench bleed
the mc and tighten all connections and then bleed the brakes.

 

Looks great! Let me know how that bench bleed goes for the master cylinder. Mine was strangely difficult to do as it was extremely hard to push the plunger in by hand. I got it done but it beat the snot out of me. Feels okay on the car, just a bit of a stiff pedal and I have no idea if that's normal or not. Braking power feels great though.

 

Thanks , yes will write when that mc bleeding are done.

 

Now the car are ready for a testrun and checking all connections for any leak. Got a inverted flare plug from Summit :

It took a loooong time for the brakefluid to begin to drip from the brakeline holes. In the Raybestos instructructions it said 3/4"-1" long strokes when you bleed it so this was a large resistens. I did some smaller strokes to get all airbubbles out. I used vacum to suction the brakefluid to the wheels and finished all using the brakepedal to bleed the
wheelcylinders . But should do a testrun later so we,ll se how it works

 

Well done! These are great modifications and well worth the effort. The pedal feel on mine is quite stiff but the braking power seems strong.

 

Nice work, that is an excellent upgrade.

 

Thanks , it was really nice to drive the car again . One thing i have thinked about is if the front brakeline bend
are to close to the engine heat . The tube is about 1 1/2" inch from the valvecover and 3"- 4" inch from the exhaust
manifold. Should have that in mind and feel the tube for heat.

 

Hi i should have another route on that powersteering hose who are close to the brakeline. Took a trip today
and the hose was hot laying against the front brakeline who also was warm. But the brakes works fine.

Ps , have ordered a new pressure hose from Rock auto.

 

Have replaced the pressure hose now and the new hose from Rockauto was a lot longer than the old one.
But I think it should work now . I straighten the bend at the pump a little so it should fit better.