Disc conversion plumbing issue
Disc conversion plumbing issue
I have a 69 Cutlass, I picked up a set of disc brakes from a 71 or 72 and installed the discs, new master and proportional valve. My problem is plumbing. I was able to remove the line for the front brakes and cut, bend, and flare. There isn't room to work on the rear line in place and I can't get the nut loose on the distribution block. I wondered if I should heat it or would that be a disaster? Any suggestions? It's on the frame and almost no room to get at it good.
thanks,
Steve W.
thanks,
Steve W.
The combo valve has rubber o-ring seals internally. Heat will destroy them. The real problem with the flare nut is that it has rusted to the tube. Expect the tube to twist and break as you unscrew the flare nut.
PB Balaster and or Castles "Thrust" are the only options for penetrant, with... yes, days of presoak before grabbing the fire wrench.
Cheap line wrenches are junk, The heads will flex and round off the nut crowns nicely. Look at Armstrong or Proto if you don't have Snap-On pockets. I have some old S&Ks that are stout. Harborjunk is use at your own discretion.
How crusty rusty is that area on your car? You may be farther ahead just cuttin everything out and starting out from scratch? It is a safety system.
Did you grab the front caliper rubber line to frame brackets off the disc brake car? You'll need em...and replace all 3 rubber lines.
Cheap line wrenches are junk, The heads will flex and round off the nut crowns nicely. Look at Armstrong or Proto if you don't have Snap-On pockets. I have some old S&Ks that are stout. Harborjunk is use at your own discretion.
How crusty rusty is that area on your car? You may be farther ahead just cuttin everything out and starting out from scratch? It is a safety system.
Did you grab the front caliper rubber line to frame brackets off the disc brake car? You'll need em...and replace all 3 rubber lines.
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