i just did a 4 wheel disk brake swap and i cant get all the air out of the system. ive been bleeding them for the last 6 days and im still getting air, im making sure the master doesnt go dry, can air be getting in from somewhere? this was a used brake kit, i got the master, distribution/proportioning valve, and calipers as well as most everything else to complete the swap from the same person. he said he was running a booster but the master has the deep pocket like manual brake masters, i dont think thats related but when i thought i almost had all the air out the pedal pressure wasnt that of my manual drums. im thinking that my distribution block may be bad as i wasnt getting much fluid/pressure to the back until i pulled that piston deal out and repositioned it to the center. and the other day i had all the air out of the front, i thought, but tonight the drivers side never stopped pushing air out. this is the last step to getting my car on the road again and it should have been done over the weekend but these darn brakes are testing me!!!! any help or ideas greatly appreciated

 

Have you "bench bled " the master cylinder? That almost has to be done before the master/cyl is put into it's installed position (angle).

 

No I did not, it already had a bit of fluid in it from the previous owner. And it should be bled after all this time shouldn't it?

 

Always bench bleed a master using a master bleed kit. Do yourself and your legs a favor and purchase a power bleeder from Jegs or Summit. Under 100 and money well spent. Buy a gallon of high quality fluid. You'll thank me.

 

A big X2 to droldsmorland. been there had to do that.

 

It is physically impossible to bleed the MC if it's on the car....your just wasting fluid and time. Pull the MC and bleed it using a kit like droldsmorland said......then bleed the wheels starting at the right rear!

 

Try one of these. You can bleed brakes by yourself. Worked great for me on my 54. There are several listed so you may be able to find a cheaper price.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/One-of-the-b...e082f5&vxp=mtr

 

Is that one of those reverse fill deals?

 

Yes it is. It worked well for me. You pump fluid from the wheel cylinder or caliper back to the master cylinder.

 

This is not entirely true. You can shove a jack under the rear axle and lift it to level the MC. Or if you've an inclined driveway you can exploit that to the same effect.

 

This one. Do replace the hose with a thicker wall hose though.

 

Is that a reverse fill deal as well? I borrowed a bleeders that's sucks fluid through the bleeder and sucked each caliper until there was no bubble or they were tiny and few of them. Started at the rr and worked my way up, haven't touched the pedal yet as I ran out of time but I'm hoping that it helped, it certainly got a ton of air out

 

That is the one I want, just ain't got it yet. Works like the Wagner "Fluid Ball" found in every large shop in 50s, 60s, 70s . Would work great for flushing. The ball had a bladder and you put air pressure on one side and the fluid entered the master cylinder and pressurized the whole system. Good for finding leaks too. Back then one did not need so many adapters to connect it.

 

This is a better unit in that it will pressure bleed from the master cylinder to the wheel cylinders. It cost about 3 times as much but if you are doing much brake work, it would be worth it. It would not work on a treadlevac under the floorboard. There are several of these on ebay. I imagine Amazon has them too.

 

I replaced my master cylinder and bench bled the new one. Got it all hooked up and bled till I didn't get air anymore starting at the rr. Brakes work but doesn't get stiff until half way down.

 

I messed with the brakes a bit and I can pump them up but no good brake feel until about half way. It's wet today so I did a slide test to see if I can lock up the wheels and all did but one

 

finally seems to be right, after the 3rd master cylinder.