Brakeboosters rebuild vs Inline tube/Summit new brakeboosters
#1
Brakeboosters rebuild vs Inline tube/Summit new brakeboosters
I have seen several references here that Brakeboosters did their boosters. What are the reviews from anybody that have had their boosters a couple of years? Likewise, any experience after a couple of years from venders selling new ones.
#2
I'd like to know as well, I need one now. From my searching on the sites, the repos are crisper castings so you can tell they are a repo. Some say the newer repos bolt right in others say there are issues. The repos are cheaper and get to you much quicker.
I'm thinking of a repo because I'd like to drive my car more this season. The rebuild could take weeks to get here.
I'm thinking of a repo because I'd like to drive my car more this season. The rebuild could take weeks to get here.
#3
I replaced my factory booster last summer. No install issues. Looks good, functions fine. Seems like a good quality product. My car will never see a lot of miles so a lot of time will tell. I had my fenders off so it was the best time to replace it, and it was easy. With the fenders on, good luck..I was going to replace mine a few years back and could not get a wrench in there. Sure it can be done. One thing that stood out to me was the weight. Factory booster is much heavier. I held onto mine. It was working fine..
#4
While I haven't had Steve Gregori at Brakeboosters.com do a booster for me (all my cars are manual brakes) I wouldn't hesitate to use Steve if I end up with a power brake car sometime in the future. However I have sent him some other parts to get plated and no issues.
#6
I would recommend having your old one rebult if not physically damaged. Steve did mine and I was pleased, despite my pickiness.
The new chinesium ones have crisp edges on the front indentation - easy to spot in shows.
Also one guy here had the MC studs snap off before even hitting the torque spec.
The new chinesium ones have crisp edges on the front indentation - easy to spot in shows.
Also one guy here had the MC studs snap off before even hitting the torque spec.
#8
Here it is "before". Surprised as heck when I got it back! It cost 155 plus shipping mine there. I believe he paid the return shipping.
http://www.brakeboosters.com/
Oh - here is where he compares the repros with the originals!
http://www.brakeboosters.com/reprovorg.htm
http://www.brakeboosters.com/
Oh - here is where he compares the repros with the originals!
http://www.brakeboosters.com/reprovorg.htm
#9
[QUOTE=Lady72nRob71;424646]Here it is "before". Surprised as heck when I got it back! It cost 155 plus shipping mine there. I believe he paid the return shipping.
According to the web site the$155 and he ships back is correct. I spoke to him day before yesterday. One thing to consider is if it is pitted, then there is an extra $45.00 per side prior to plating.
I have no idea if what I just pulled off of the car was original to the car or not. I cannot find any stamping or markings on it.
He also sells rebuilt units, for $250. Not sure if there is a core charge. If not, by the time consider shipping, and if he has to do extra work due to pitting, it maybe just as easy to buy one of his.
According to the web site the$155 and he ships back is correct. I spoke to him day before yesterday. One thing to consider is if it is pitted, then there is an extra $45.00 per side prior to plating.
I have no idea if what I just pulled off of the car was original to the car or not. I cannot find any stamping or markings on it.
He also sells rebuilt units, for $250. Not sure if there is a core charge. If not, by the time consider shipping, and if he has to do extra work due to pitting, it maybe just as easy to buy one of his.
#10
Can you post a picture of it? Can you not see the Delco stamp anywhere? It could have been replaced. If so, he may not rebuild it due to possibly different internals.
I thought mine was nothing put small pits. However he clearly turned **** into gold!
I thought mine was nothing put small pits. However he clearly turned **** into gold!
#11
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
The BB was sold by Crane Corvettes and claimed 'made in usa'. The check valve is a different color from stock too.
The MC also claimed "made in usa" from JustPowerBrakes and looks stock.
#12
I will post a picture if we get electricity back anytime soon, after the storms we had. I'm posting from my phone, and while there is a picture Of the BB I took with the phone, I can't seem to find a way to get it to the thread. I have tried shaking the phone back and forth really really fast, but that didn't work.
Alan, how long have you had your setup on? I've read a few complaints that after a year the aftermarket BB leak vacuum.
Alan, how long have you had your setup on? I've read a few complaints that after a year the aftermarket BB leak vacuum.
#13
#14
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
#15
[QUOTE=Aceshigh;424690]Another option to consider. $115 plus shipping
http://www.boosterdeweyexchange.com/[/QUOTE
Aces, are you running one of his, or know anyone that has?
http://www.boosterdeweyexchange.com/[/QUOTE
Aces, are you running one of his, or know anyone that has?
#16
#17
I had my original booster done by Steve about 10 years ago, and it stared looking bad within a year or two. I sent it back in 2010, and he did a replate at no charge, now the plating is coming off again...
#19
The plating came off the top of the booster and the MC cover, I have no idea why the plating failed. The booster and cover looked beautiful-both times..The area under the MC still looks perfect, BTW my car is garaged.
#20
Normally, cars with this problem show moisture damage in other areas too. If the plating were bad, it would deteriorate evenly, not just on the top surfaces of things. You first see a chalky white spotting and if left in that bad storage for long enough, you might see the plating break down all together. This is because the moisture gets trapped right under the hood and does it's stuff.
You may want to consider using a de-humidifier in your storage if this applies to you. Putting towels on top of the booster during storage only adds to the problem as they hold moisture right on the surface of the booster. (I've had customers with bad storage do that too!)
The plating I offer is from the same plater since I started this business 29 years ago and so far the record for a customer telling me their booster still looks good since I did it, stands at 23 years.
If I can answer any questions, please contact me directly through my site www.brakeboosters.com or e-mail me from this post. As always, advice is free from me.
I hope this helps shed a little light on the subject. Thank you to those who have let me be a part of their restorations since 1983.
Steve Gregori
Brake Boosters Inc
www.brakeboosters.com
#21
I got a 7" booster from www.summitracing.com and it worked great. But then I changed the engine and didn't have enough vacuum to use it so I converted to manual brakes and OMG I'm so glad I did.
After messing with all that crap of the booster and vacuum issues and clearance problems all it took was a manual brake rod and the master cylinder bolted right up to the firewall. I made some new brake lines because I installed a line lock at the same time. In all, I wish I would've done this a long time ago...it is so much cleaner looking. AND! When you fill the MC it is LEVEL not like those on the brake boosters...so you can fill it to within 1/4" of the top and it's even all the way around.
Last edited by ah64pilot; July 7th, 2012 at 12:46 PM. Reason: added picture
#22
Steve has done all of my boosters since the mid 1980's.
NEVER had an issue.
The current booster is 5 years old and still looks new.
I use a product called DAMP RID in and around my car. It is a dessicant that absorbs moisture.
Works well in the Northeast.
NEVER had an issue.
The current booster is 5 years old and still looks new.
I use a product called DAMP RID in and around my car. It is a dessicant that absorbs moisture.
Works well in the Northeast.
#23
I believe dc2x4drvr is in the Dallas area like myself. I will need to kepe an eye on my plating. I do not think I will have much issue, as the garage door is not often opened, so temp and humidity will be pretty constant.
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