Brake Pad and Rotor choices

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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 11:19 AM
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Rocketbrian's Avatar
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From: Economy, Nova Scotia
Brake Pad and Rotor choices

I was looking online at ACDelco and Car Quest and they list various brake pads for my 71 442. There is a choice of ceramic and semi-metallic; I understand semi-metallics came on the car new? I bought the blue semi metallic pads at Car Quest which I understand are made by Raybestos as are the AC Delco Durastops. Did I make the correct choice for stopping power as I am concerned about the chamfered section, which in effect reduces the contact area? Will they be OK? Of course the original riveted pads did not have these chamfered areas.
Secondly, the car has the original grooved type of rotors which seem to be fairly clean and smooth. The wear groove is still very evident. However, I snapped a stud removing the wheel. I drove the stud out of the hub/rotor but there were larger knurled areas at the based of the stud and now there is a slightly square opening. So I have possibly ruined the hub in any event. As all studs should be replaced in this situation (metal fatigue) should I give up on the original rotors and go aftermarket? Who would make the best rotors for these cars? Thanks.
Old Jan 21, 2014 | 11:27 AM
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Update, I just looked closer at the rotor and the hole does still look ok. The knurled sections must have flattened out. Would a standard size stud work ok and if so is there any special procedure to seat them properly?
Old Jan 21, 2014 | 11:59 AM
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Brian, you should be fine with the pads you bought. The studs on the rotor come out exactly the way you described - BFH and whack them. This will usually deform the threads at the end rendering them useless anyway. New replacement studs are readily available - I got mine from NAPA. Just take an OEM one with you for comparison. Most of the new ones are just a bit longer than OEM.

To install the stud, start it through the hole and put 3 or 4 1/8" thick washers over it. Then put the bolt on and snug it down. The force of tightening the nut will suck the splined part of the bolt into place so it can't move.

Post a picture of the damage you're worried about on the rotor.
Old Jan 21, 2014 | 01:34 PM
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Adding to Allan's instructions, I use a regular lug nut (the ones on my car are the covered style) and put it on backwards so that the flat part is against the washers. I typically keep several extras in the glove box for emergency use and for things such as this.
Old Jan 21, 2014 | 07:14 PM
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I'll give new studs a try. Thanks for the tips.
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