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I haven't checked yet. And plan to do rear disc in next few Months, but finally drove my new to me cutlass to work today and noticed a clicking sound coming from the rear. Plus after I hit the brake at a light, put her in N she stays put like I set the parking brake. Could it be a possible broken spring?? I'm half tempted to let her sit until I can figure out a rear disc setup I like.
I'd rebuild the rear stock drums. 80% of your braking occurs on the front disk brakes. Rear drums are more than sufficient, IMO (1971 CS convertible front disc/ rear drum)
Time for a reality check. When you do a rear disc conversion, the prop valve is designed to limit the pressure to the rear brakes to prevent premature rear wheel lockup under panic braking, which can cause you to swap ends. The bottom line is that you'll be spending a ton of time and money on rear discs (including the new wheels to clear) and then restricting them down to applying the same braking force that the drums did. Unless you plan to upgrade to larger front brakes, simply converting to rear discs is a waste of money. Proper front/rear balance is extremely important under hard and panic braking conditions. Also keep in mind that actual braking effectiveness depends on a lot more than just the type of brakes. Tire size, rubber compound, weight transfer, and other factors also impact braking effectiveness. Few people truly understand this (including nearly all of the aftermarket brake kit suppliers). Your money, your call.
I understand where everyone is coming from. I've been around cars long enough to know what a disc conversion entails. this thread has turned into bashing me over wanting rear disc when the question was if its possible to have a clicking noise come form the drums, if not then it has to be a bearing in the axle which will make her sit even longer.
I understand where everyone is coming from. I've been around cars long enough to know what a disc conversion entails. this thread has turned into bashing me over wanting rear disc when the question was if its possible to have a clicking noise come form the drums, if not then it has to be a bearing in the axle which will make her sit even longer.
No one is "bashing" you. You might want to lose the chip on your shoulder. You've been here a whole two months with 18 posts. We have no idea of your skills or level of technical understanding. We DO get a lot of threads where people have "upgraded" their cars to four wheel disc and then complain that it doesn't stop any better than the original drums. Not everyone has complete information to make an informed decision. I'd also expect someone who's "been around cars long enough" to know how to check the wheel bearings and brakes to find a noise without asking for directions. In any case, since you already know everything, knock yourself out.
I don't think anybody here has bashed you. First off, we did not know your skill level and simply made suggestions to save money and frustratioin. As Joe P. said, your money and your car to do as you please.
I'm a master tech and run a fleet of 100 trucks. everything I have is either disc or air drum. I haven't touched hydraulic drums in over 20 years. most people do disc conversions for simplicity and cost. majority of automakers have phased out drum brakes long ago. I don't see the issue with modernizing a classic especially if you understand pascals law. I apologize if I jumped to conclusions. in the past I've joined forums, and everyone treated me as if I knew nothing about cars, and acted like I pay people to do work on my cars. I'm just frustrated since I got screwed on this car and I have to dump a bunch in it to make it reliable.
Actually, most people do disc conversions because that's what magazines and cable shows tell they they are supposed to do. Look, no one is suggesting that a PROPERLY DESIGNED AND INSTALLED disc brake system won't be better than drums. The problem is the few of the aftermarket kits are properly designed and fewer still are properly installed. And let's be honest here, until the mind reading thing starts working, we always assume that a new member has little or no skills or understanding. That's usually safest when it comes to a critical system like brakes.
Actually, most people do disc conversions because that's what magazines and cable shows tell they they are supposed to do. Look, no one is suggesting that a PROPERLY DESIGNED AND INSTALLED disc brake system won't be better than drums. The problem is the few of the aftermarket kits are properly designed and fewer still are properly installed. And let's be honest here, until the mind reading thing starts working, we always assume that a new member has little or no skills or understanding. That's usually safest when it comes to a critical system like brakes.
you're right, I should've been more descriptive on my automotive knowledge when I joined. The disappointment of buying my first beautiful classic car and how I've been had overwhelms me. you would think spending 33k on a car would allow you to actually enjoy it for at least a day before having to dump a couple grand in it to make it safe and reliable. everything has to be ordered for this car, so I'm just trying to get an idea of what I need to order so it's here on sunday.
Joe you seem real knowledgeable on these cars, how can I tell what axle is in this cutlass s? I'll just order the outer bearings and seals along with the brakes for this weekend.
Last edited by philv1983; Apr 12, 2023 at 08:24 AM.
OK, back on track with your current issue. I combined the pertinent information from your posts so that we can try to help you get it figured out so you can keep driving it to work.
Originally Posted by philv1983
noticed a clicking sound coming from the rear. Plus after I hit the brake at a light, put her in N she stays put like I set the parking brake. Could it be a possible broken spring??
Originally Posted by philv1983
the question was if its possible to have a clicking noise come form the drums, if not then it has to be a bearing in the axle
When I had bearing issues it made a roaring noise and not a clicking noise, but that's just my limited experience with bearing failures.
I don't fully understand about the car not moving when you put it in N? Need more information about that.
As said above, pull the drum to see if things are as they should be. If needed, it's really easy to replace all the drum hold down hardware (take pictures before disassembly, and do one side at a time so you have the other for reference).
how can I tell what axle is in this cutlass s? I'll just order the outer bearings and seals along with the brakes for this weekend.
The original would be an 8.5" 10 bolt rear. Look at the side of the center section for two parallel ribs, and on top for a boss where the rear brake hose is mounted.
Why not do what most skilled people do, troubleshoot, pull the wheels and inspect before ordering a bunch of parts you may not need. Not bashing, just applying some common sense here.
Joe you seem real knowledgeable on these cars, how can I tell what axle is in this cutlass s? I'll just order the outer bearings and seals along with the brakes for this weekend.
The original axle would have been a corporate ten bolt 8.5" with the Olds-unique bolt-in axles. The center section is the same as the Chevy 10 bolt but the outer wheel bearings and seals are unique to the Olds application. A photo of the axle will help confirm what you have, since it sounds like the car has been mucked with.
Why not do what most skilled people do, troubleshoot, pull the wheels and inspect before ordering a bunch of parts you may not need. Not bashing, just applying some common sense here.
I would, but so far everything is a day or 2 to get. I only have sundays off for the most part and any work on her has to be done that day. I'd rather return parts than to wait.
The original axle would have been a corporate ten bolt 8.5" with the Olds-unique bolt-in axles. The center section is the same as the Chevy 10 bolt but the outer wheel bearings and seals are unique to the Olds application. A photo of the axle will help confirm what you have, since it sounds like the car has been mucked with.
it is a 10 bolt, sorry I don't have any pics on the company computer. the sides of the cover curve inwards. the dealer told me it has 3.31 limited slip. from my research, I don't think that's original, so I do believe they've been in it.
If it really is a 3.31, then it is likely an 8.2" 10 bolt rear, and there are more than one flavor of that rearend. You would need to look at the sides of the center section to see the rib configuration to help ID which one it is.
If it really is a 3.31, then it is likely an 8.2" 10 bolt rear, and there are more than one flavor of that rearend. You would need to look at the sides of the center section to see the rib configuration to help ID which one it is.
Here's a link to one of our member's business page (monzaz, Jim at JD Race). He has images and descriptions for identification, and also part numbers for bearings and seals. If you have any questions, call or e-mail him as he is extremely knowledgeable and is an excellent resource.
it is a 10 bolt, sorry I don't have any pics on the company computer. the sides of the cover curve inwards. the dealer told me it has 3.31 limited slip. from my research, I don't think that's original, so I do believe they've been in it.
The dealer presumably told you the car didn't need all that work, either, so I'd take that with a grain of salt.
I saw this picture on your other thread and thought I'd post it here since the discussion du jour is brakes. It appears there has been some modification to the brake system.
I saw this picture on your other thread and thought I'd post it here since the discussion du jour is brakes. It appears there has been some modification to the brake system.
Yeah, an aftermarket A-body front disc conversion. Not surprising. FYI, that's the 1967-70 style master cylinder (not that it matters from a functionality standpoint).
I saw this picture on your other thread and thought I'd post it here since the discussion du jour is brakes. It appears there has been some modification to the brake system.
yeah I believe the car is original 4 wheel manual drum. they spliced all the brake lines, so now I have to order those too. they did a lot of shady stuff to this car. not even 24 hours of owning her and less than 2 miles I had to spend 1k replacing whole cooling system, tune up, belts, and ac was mostly air. plus they had timing set at 31 degrees. I put her at 11 and she runs a lot better. at least she doesn't burn any oil. old plugs were clean.
Every time I touch this car, I get the feeling I've been screwed over more and more. Was told 3.31 limited. It's original 2.73 open. I guess next time, I'm buying a builder and doing everything myself. This is so disappointing. People will lie to make a sale.
Every time I touch this car, I get the feeling I've been screwed over more and more. Was told 3.31 limited. It's original 2.73 open. I guess next time, I'm buying a builder and doing everything myself. This is so disappointing. People will lie to make a sale.
Sorry to hear that. This is why I do every bit of my own work (except upholstery).
