When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The car has been sitting in a shed for at least 12 years without moving. I've already replaced the master cylinder which was frozon. Also going to replace all 4 wheel cylinders.
The distributon block is in a fairly inaccessible location below the master cylinder and has 4 brake fluid lines (2 in and 2 out) plus the brake pressure warning light connection.
I'm concerned with being able to get the fluid lines off without damaging the lines so I would rather not try and remove them if it is likely that the distribution block is ok.
Doesn't seem like there is much to go wrong since it seems that it really just passes the front and rear break fluid pressure and alarms if there is a differential pressure.
Can anyone tell me it the Brake Distribution Block is likely needing to be replaced?
I can attest to the low quality of the replacement blocks out there. Granted, mine is a 71 disc/drum car with a different combination valve, but i went through 2 bad out of the box parts before getting a good one. They would leak out of the front of the unit where the pin installs. Such a pain replacing them down on the frame, not something I wanted to do 3 times.
thanks....the location and angles to get to the nuts on the fluid lines looks brutal. Hopefully mine is ok. Will see once I have the wheel cylinders on and try to bleed the lines.
I am replacing the master cylinder & thinking about replacing the distribution block as well. I kinda messed myself up though. I took the lines from the master cylinder to the block off & now forget how they go back on. Does the lines closest to the firewall go to the side top hole on the block or the side/bottom hole on the block? One line has a blueish/purple color on the threads, if that helps. Any help would be great. Pictures work too. It is a manual / drum brake car. Thanks.
I am replacing the master cylinder & thinking about replacing the distribution block as well. I kinda messed myself up though. I took the lines from the master cylinder to the block off & now forget how they go back on. Does the lines closest to the firewall go to the side top hole on the block or the side/bottom hole on the block? One line has a blueish/purple color on the threads, if that helps. Any help would be great. Pictures work too. It is a manual / drum brake car. Thanks.
I will take a look in the next few days. The Cutlass is in my workshop and not close to my house. I am recovering from shoulder surgery and can't do anything on my Cutlass for about another 2 months. Bummer,
Last edited by jpatfarrell; January 15th, 2019 at 04:58 PM.
Scan all the brake lines from front to rear and look for damp spots. If you see any it probably means they rusted through. In that case I'd replace all the lines. There are several companies that make replacement mild steel or stainless steel preformed sets for the entire car.
Even if you don't replace the steel lines, I would definitely replace the three rubber lines on a car that's sat for 12 years. Many fail internally and cause all kinds of problems. It's cheap insurance. The two fronts go to each caliper/drum wheel cylinder and one to the rear axle above the center section.
On my 66 Starfire, I replaced all wheel cylinders, rubber lines, steel lines (w/stainless) and master. Then had to replace the power booster, which had failed and ruined the new master, which had to be replaced again. The old power booster leaked vacuum which pulled fluid out the back of the master cylinder.
I am replacing the master cylinder & thinking about replacing the distribution block as well. I kinda messed myself up though. I took the lines from the master cylinder to the block off & now forget how they go back on. Does the lines closest to the firewall go to the side top hole on the block or the side/bottom hole on the block? One line has a blueish/purple color on the threads, if that helps. Any help would be great. Pictures work too. It is a manual / drum brake car. Thanks.
Whet to my shop this morning and looked at the brake lines.
Couldn't get a decent photo so I made a diagram that shows the brake line configuration on my '70 Cutlass Supreme. Mine is all drum brakes with a power booster. Based on your question we might have a different braking system.
The front line from the master cylinder goes to the top front connection on the distribution block and the rear line from the master cylinder (cloest to firewall) goes to the top rear connection of the block.
The front line from the master cylinder to the block is smaller than the rear line.
Between these two lines on the top is the electrical connection for the differential pressure warning line.
The connection on the front side of the block goes to the front driver side brake.
The connection on the bottom of the block goes to the passanger side brake.
The connection at the rear side of the block goes to the rear brakes.
See diagram attached. Let me know if you have more questions. Always glad to help.
I have replaced all steel lines, rubber lines, wheel cylinders cleaned all areas. I also replaced the rear brake shoes, because the pad actually fell off the shoe. I will probably replace the fronts as well, even though they look fine. Thanks again.
The flare nuts are all different thread sizes specifically so the lines could not be connected incorrectly on the assembly line. Only the two going to the front wheels are the same, because it doesn't matter which goes to the RH wheel and which goes to the LH wheel.
I use a Vacula suction bleeder. This is the best tool I've ever bought. I've never needed more than one pass around the four wheels to bleed the brakes. You don't even need to bench bleed the master.
December 12th, 2018, 11:23 AM
