correct they are NOT self adjusting

 

Try to find out why that shoe isn't fully seated.

 

Admittedly I'm having a mental breakdown following along; but I'm thinking the Parking Brake cables or the lever(s) are not installed/oriented correctly. (1) Make sure the larger (longer) shoe is oriented/installed towards the rear of the vehicle. (2) Make sure the Parking Brake cable(s) have no tension on them when you install the Parking Brake metal arms & lever. If they have tension, you need to relax/loosen the tension on the Parking Brakes cable(s) to each wheel so there is no tension during brake assembly. That's the very first thing you need to be sure of - no tension on the Parking Brake cable(s). The Parking Brake cable is easily adjusted with correct tension after drum brake assembly is installed. I'm mentioning this since you stated earlier you had to muscle the drum back on & I'm thinking one of the shoes is either not (a) installed/oriented correctly or (b) the Parking Brake has tension being applied w/ too much lateral force against one or the other shoe. So, make sure no tension on the Parking Brake cable(s) during assembly. The Parking Brake lever(s) should move freely during installation. I can't recall (I don't do this daily) but I believe you're correct the Parking Brake "spring" is oriented towards the front on the upper metal plate/lever. The entire Parking Brake assembly needs to move freely with ease during assembly.

I realize this may seem to make little difference, but I've fought w/ this in years past and learned the very hard way. Be certain the springs are oriented/attached correctly as they can allow the cylinder rods/actuators to interfere with the Parking Brake metal lever. In your image, ensure the spring to the right (which I believe is the Parking Brake return spring?) is seated correctly - does it go on top of the center pin first or second? Sounds like it doesn't make a difference - believe me, those springs have to be installed correctly - they're formed/shaped specifically to be attached in the correct orientation. If not, there's an opportunity for one or the other cylinder actuator rods to engage while the other does not (interfering with applying equal force to both shoes) sometimes even sliding off the lever slot.

(1) No tension on Parking Brake cable(s) during assembly
(2) Correct orientation of brake shoes - shorter in front
(3) Spring attachments to center pin are correct.

Good Luck - I have felt your pain. (I learned a long time ago to take pictures before removing parts).

 

so this never dawned on me; since the suspension is all original, except for the shocks which are a few years old, lots of rubber bushings and cushion points and I’m sure other joints and control arms need replacing. Some rubber is even missing and rotted away.

THIS could explain the clunking, but, it happens in reverse mostly. I apply the pedal and can hear from either front or back, this clunking like something is loose and has lots of play before the stopping power begins

 

When going in reverse, and the ebrake is applied, it should still engage and stop the vehicle correct? I tested it out and it did notjinf when I applied the ebrake in reverse…

 

Alright folks. I believe I got the brake issues squared away. It’s been several months and I got back to working on the Olds. I adjusted the push rod to MC, as well as the brake pedal to MC. I believe it is dialed in perfectly now. No more brake overheating. The brakes fully disengage and they all work nicely. Adjusted all shoes, the parking brake will grab the wheels in the rear and make them stop in a hurry too. I think I figured her out. Thanks for all the help friends!