Hey everyone,

While working on the 68 Cutlass S today, we discovered the frame horns are about 1" too wide. It was originally in a wreck causing moderate damage to the driver side fender. I think now we found the real damage. We are getting a come-a-long to try and pull it back to normal and then measure the frame from there to make sure it meets requirements. Does anyone have any experience with this? Any suggestions or word of encouragement?

Thanks

 

Just my opinion .. find a good collision repair shop with a frame bench. They're designed to pull frames straight. They've got the right combination of power, finesse and precision to do the job right. Remember that frame is going to have a certain amount of memory. With your come along, you're more likely to make matters worse. A frame bench will straighten it along all three axis.

 

Me and my best friend were towing his perfect! 56 Chevy frame with a bolt on tow bar. When backing it in to his drive way the passenger frame horn bent to almost a right angle, we were sick! However we were able to straighten it with no problem and almost couldnt tell it ever happened. The fit of everything related to it was perfect.

 

Thanks for the quick reply!

What do you mean "a certain amount of memory"? We are in the process of replacing the core support so should I reattach it so they can re-align it more accurately? I'm kinda new to the process but I have rktolds guiding me through.

 

All metals have ductile properties ... they deform like play-doh when you hit them or apply force. Memory refers to how much they spring back to their old shape when that force is removed. When bending that frame horn, you'll have to overbend it a certain amount so that when it springs back, it springs back to land exactly where you want it to be. A frame bench allows millimeter precise movement with total control. Add in a skilled operator who has already a good idea of just how much memory that metal will show and you're likely to spend less than an hour on the bench .... with little likelyhood of overbending or collapsing the frame because you pulled too hard.

 

While a frame machine makes this easy, it IS possible to do it yourself. The most important thing is that you need to block the frame so that it level and won't move. You don't want the car bouncing on the suspension. Use a plumb weight on a string to mark the location of several reference points from the frame on the floor under the car. Now measure the diagonals and heat and bend the frame horns until the diagonals are the same. This is just mild steel. Heating is fine.

 

Thanks guys for the reply. I remeasured tonight and also finally found a chart online with measurements. The tape measure comes in roughly at 42''. According to the charts the frame width of the frame horns is 41 3/8" outside to outside. So it's not as bad as we thought. I'm hope to work on it tomorrow.


Matt

 

I vote truck frame repair shop that has a good rep.
You can use heat but you have to stay with in the heat guide lines.
We had crayons that would melt at given temp.
you can hurt the frame by over heating it changes the metals properties.
The torch adds carbon to the steel and makes it hard/brittle.
Metal has a memory and when you make a pull, pull farther than the distance that you need because it will spring back. Thus the name spring back. Metal is always moving expanding contracting you do not want it in a state that can cause fatigue.
You can over work metal and when you do you change its characteristics the metal becomes hard and brittle.
All body men are not equal, It takes skill, schooling, and a touch/ feel.
Never stand in line with a pull if the cable snaps or chain breaks it becomes air born and if it hits you in the head you can suffer brain damaged.
We would but chains across the chain then cover it with a carpet/heavy canvas tarp that way if it let go it would take the energy out of the chain
Today shops have a strict inspection policy and replacement program in place.
I have seen to many hack jobs from shops and backyard body men, I vote pro

 

Thanks for all the replies. We will give it a whack ourselves and see what happens. Its not going to be a show car or a racer so it doesnt need to be absolutely perfect. Its my "Intro to Olds" cruiser. We can always make alterations later!

 

As long as it's bent at the horn area and not in the control arm area you'll probably be fine. Let us know how it turns out.

 

^^^This

All the frame does forward of the control arms/crossmember is to hold the core support and front bumper. So long as you have enough adjustment to get these parts bolted on correctly, the exact location of the frame horns is not critical.

 

Take pics .. or better yet, video. We love to live vicariously.

 

Since you have a deminsion chart us it to make several different measurments. Take some diagnals from a point on the horn to a point on the ft crossmember, both sides. This should help pinpoint the location of the damage. Hopefully it's all way in front of the crossmember otherwise you will need a pro GL