Putting 2 repop fenders on my 72 Supreme. I could almost throw the drivers side one on from across the shop and it would land all lined up. The passenger side is another story....I had to cut the bracket off that meets the A pillar and relocate that in order to get the style line at the top lined up without the top edge kicked up way too high. So that is solved. However, I am left with too much of a bow in the middle of the door. If I put more shims on the bottom, I can get the bow out, but it draws the point where the style line meets too low. My thought is to cut a relief on the back support to allow the bow to relax and weld it back at that point. Before I go cutting and welding, has anyone tried this? Is there a better solution? See pics.

The top edge is as good as I can get it....I can live with it.

This is the bow I am left with.

 

Yes, I have done exactly that, the contour of the fender doesn't match the door contour so I have put relief cuts in the rear reinforcement of the fender to allow a consistent flex in the fender contour, then I will weld the reinforcement back up, I have done this on factory fenders as well.

 

Perfect! I just wanted to be sure my thinking was sound before cutting.

 

Did you use any shims at the bottom to draw the fender down?

 

I did shim the bottom. Putting in more shims results in drawing the style line of the fender down and in. This tells me the tension in the bow needs released.

 

Eric, I'm surprised you didn't suggest--->There is nothing that can't be solved with a suitable amount of explosives!
AJ please post some pics of this metal messaging procedure. I'm interested to see the process and end results.

 

I'll post them when completed. Should be sometime next week.

 

tiogatwister, in your experience was one cut in the apex of the bow sufficient? Or would a cut at the apex with 2 more "halfway" on either side work best?

 

Can you add additional shims up top to bring the style line up and then draw it back down with the added shims on the bottom?

Don't mock the system, it works.

 

It would depend on the severity of the bow, but I prefer multiple cuts over one, the goal is to consistently reshape the fender and not to create a kink.

 

I had the same issue with the passenger fender.
moving the top bracket took care of most of it.
I'll have to review the contour to the door, thought it was good.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...d-back-169126/

 

I was able to get the bow out. Here is where I'm at now. I may do one more cut. At the worst area, it is right at the factory tolerance.



Here is the first cut. Notice how when I mounted it up, the gap is wider. This relaxed the bow. I then tacked it in place.


Then I removed it and filled the gap.


Here is the result after making another cut and following the same process. Much better! This shows the top edge sticking up a bit. However, I was able to remove a shim and lower the edge. I guess I didn't take a picture of that.

 

Looking good.
Dont forget to drop a line to the manufacture and complain. Maybe some day they will do something if they receive enough bitching.

 

Looking good, I would recommend to keep the fender proud of the door 1/16" relative to flush, this will allow you to keep a tighter gap and allow the door to clear the fender during swing on the door, also keep the interior side of the fender thin and tight so it does not scuff the edge of the door during swing.

 

Yep. Good on all accounts there. I feel I am a right side fender expert now....having hung the darn thing on there around 20 times or so it feels.