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Hey all I'm thinking about replacing all of the headlight hardware and springs on my '72 Supreme and was just wonder if there were any tips and/or tricks that would save me time and trouble, as well as anything I need to be aware of.
Is there a reason that you want to do this, or are you just looking for something to do on the car?
From personal experience, I wouldn't be too quick to fix what ain't broken. If there's a problem (rust, headlights can't be aimed), yes, fix it. But otherwise...
Agreed. Those are not parts that typically need anything done to them.
If you insist, be aware that all four headlight will need to be aimed afterwards, so look into how you will accomplish that before starting to take things apart.
Headlamp aiming is covered on pages 12-76 and 12-77 in the '72 chassis service manual. You should be able to put up the necessary markings on pieces of paper taped to a garage door with a level driveway in front of it.
Is there a reason that you want to do this, or are you just looking for something to do on the car?
From personal experience, I wouldn't be too quick to fix what ain't broken. If there's a problem (rust, headlights can't be aimed), yes, fix it. But otherwise...
Low beams are good, but the passenger side high beam can't be adjusted. Maybe just rebuild that one?
...be aware that all four headlight will need to be aimed afterwards,..
Before I had to replace one of mine, due to yellowing of the plastic lens, I parked the vehicle far enough from the wall, in order to get enough of a visible beam target to mark with two stripes of tape. After having replaced the headlight assembly, I then adjusted the replacement lamp, so that the beam would line up exactly with the target marked by the tape.
What I would do, if not already done, would be to replace the sealed beams with H4 housings. This way, it wouldn't longer be necessary to change the entire beam, after the filament burns through
Last edited by Killian_Mörder; Feb 3, 2021 at 12:50 AM.
Before I had to replace one of mine, due to yellowing of the plastic lens, I parked the vehicle far enough from the wall, in order to get enough of a visible beam target to mark with two stripes of tape. After having replaced the headlight assembly, I then adjusted the replacement lamp, so that the beam would line up exactly with the target marked by the tape.
What I would do, if not already done, would be to replace the sealed beams with H4 housings. This way, it wouldn't longer be necessary to change the entire beam, after the filament burns through
Thanks for the tip. I would do that but I'm too much of a purist. 😀
The Hella H4 conversions are great. I have them in a 66 and are fantastic. Plus the H4 style lets you put in LED with out the bug look. They look like a normal sealed beam when installed. I bought the ones with the european lens. I think it has a better light pattern.
As far as I know, there are only European versions available, unless sets for British vehicles are classified as others, given that right-hand drive vehicles require opposite patterns
All the hardware - springs and adjuster stands - are riveted in place. See what's actually broken and just replace those. Removing the headlight plate is very simple - once the bumper and grille assembly is removed!
All the hardware - springs and adjuster stands - are riveted in place. See what's actually broken and just replace those. Removing the headlight plate is very simple - once the bumper and grille assembly is removed!
Ohhh nnooo...ain't tryin to do all that. I'll just do what I can with what I find.
Dave - I'm somewhat confused (this does happen on occasions), but - I believe what Jason (oddball) is stating is you need to remove basically the bumper and the grille assembly to replace even one spring and adjuster stand. In post #1 you stated:
I could be wrong about this on your 1972 Cutlass (many cars are different on this assembly matrix whether it's Chevy, Olds, Ford, etc.). I am not looking at mine, but here is the diagram from the Assembly Manual for your car.
I looked at that same drawing in my CSM, and once I look at the adjuster in question, I'll go from there. I'm thinking it's the top adjuster on the inboard pass side, so maybe I'll get lucky 😀
Further inspection revealed that the upper adjustment bolt is not seated in the headlight bucket, thus causing the headlight to "droop" down. My plan is to remove the headlight ring and then take the adjustment bolt out, re seat it in the bucket and put everything back together. Question is, will the bolt be easy enough to access to remove once I take the ring off? I hope so...
Headlamp aiming is covered on pages 12-76 and 12-77 in the '72 chassis service manual. You should be able to put up the necessary markings on pieces of paper taped to a garage door with a level driveway in front of it.
Then find a flat spot to do it. Maybe you have a friend with a flat driveway and a garage door?
All their driveways are inclined too. Its only the inboard pass side that needs adjustment. What if I measured from ground to center on the driver side and adjusted the pass side accordingly?
How about finding a school parking lot with a place to get close to the building? For heaven's sake, use your imagination!
Yes, your idea of making measurements instead would probably get you close enough. Try it and see what happens. Let's get the hardware replaced first and THEN worry about aiming.
How about finding a school parking lot with a place to get close to the building? For heaven's sake, use your imagination!
Yes, your idea of making measurements instead would probably get you close enough. Try it and see what happens. Let's get the hardware replaced first and THEN worry about aiming.
Don't need to replace the hardware after all. I was able to get the adjuster screw back into place 😀
Headlamp aiming is covered on pages 12-76 and 12-77 in the '72 chassis service manual. You should be able to put up the necessary markings on pieces of paper taped to a garage door with a level driveway in front of it.
I'm assuming that this is based on stock ride height, but what if the front sits lower than stock?
It does not matter if the front end is lower or higher than factory as the headlight pattern is achieved with respect to level ground, not a level vehicle.
How bout this? Since the driver side inboard headlight is correct, what if I measure the 25 ft, set up my aiming points, and gauge the pass side off the driver side?
You're in Virginia. Every licensed safety inspection station is required to have state approved headlight aiming equipment. Go visit one, antique plates or not.
Though I dare say you'll find it covered with dust, provided the inspector even knows how to use it. That's why I bought my own Hopkins aimers.
Turns out I was wrong...apparently the hardware for the inboard pass side headlight does need replaced. I can only adjust it so far before the upper adjustment screw pops out of the slot in the bucket. So I got it as far as I could and called it done. My main goal was to stop the headlight from drooping, and I've accomplished that, so I'm happy. As far as the beam, it's maybe 3/4 as far as the driver side but then again, I usually don't run my high beams anyway. Maybe at some point I'll revisit this project, but for now I'm 👍
Go to a parts store with a Dorman/Motormite/Help! aisle. You might find the plastic headlight adjuster bushings there, or find one that supplies body shops. They can probably get the exact ones for your car, cheaper than going thru one of the repro suppliers. Replacing all 8 is a pleasant afternoon's work.
