What type of welder???
#1
What type of welder???
I was wondering what type of welder I would need to use to do body work????
120v or 240v??
gas - flux - or able to do both?
heat settings??
brands???
thanks for the help
120v or 240v??
gas - flux - or able to do both?
heat settings??
brands???
thanks for the help
#2
Welder preferences
Opinions on this subject can vary strongly between users, brands, methods ect......... For all around household duties, both fabrication and auto body work, I prefer the Millermatic 210. VERY reliable, good duty cycle, accessible parts, excellent range, overall and outstanding machine. You can install a quarter panel and then burn 3/8 plate in a single pass. It is 240 household voltage non-three phase and uses an argon/CO2 mix for purging impurities. The Miller 180 is also a good choice, less expensive, but not as good for deeper passes. You can turn down the feed and amperage with either and make nice clean pit free spots to do bodywork. Just remember to tack all the way around, and give sufficient cool down between sessions or warping will occur. Flux core WILL work, just dirtier, more porous welds and generally just not as pretty. Then again, a skim layer of Evercoat will help you forget this over time and the process can be accelerated with two shots of Sailor Jerry's. Check your local Craigslist for reasonable machines compared to retail cost. Many welders sit dormate and are great, may just need cleaning and used!!! Good luck
#3
I have a Lincoln 180 with the Argon/Oxy bottle, works well for me. I took a welding class at the local community college helped a lot as all I had done before was stick weld. Don't go for 110 volt models with flux only or with the bottle option and stay away from the harbor freight stuff. As stated above check craigs list, lots of guys trying to sell stuff could save yourself a lot of money
#4
I'll second the 240v MIG. I have a Miller 180 with autoset which I must say for a less than professional welder like myself is an awesome machine. I never really weld anything over 1/4" so it is perfect for me. If you are going to weld some plate on your payloader bucket or something go bigger but for the best bang for the buck I would stick with a 240 unit and not go 120v.
#6
For auto body sheet metal, TIG is preferable to MIG. The weld is softer and easier to work back into shape. I suggest you reference the various articles and videos put out by Ron Covell and others on this topic.
#8
Hobart Handler 187
I'll throw one more in the ring. I have a Hobart Handler 187. I bought it used (thank you craigslist) and it has worked very well. I understand Hobart is owned by Miller and are built on the same assembly line. I've read conflicting accounts about the internals being different but the Hobart is more than capable for a hobbyist. It seems to be a very popular welder. I was going to buy a Miller 180 but when I found the Hobart for $300 with a bottle of 75/25 I went that route. Check craigslist!
#9
MIG definitely seems to be the go-to recommendation for automotive welding and flat-out: it works. TIG is generally considered a superior method, but its a fair bit more expensive and has steeper learning curve.
If money is tight - IMHO the extra reliability, duty cycle, and more importantly the extra cost of the heavier duty MIG welders is wasted on a hobby guy.
I just have a Lincoln Electric Pro MIG 140-Amp Welder that I picked up at Lowes a couple years ago. I don't regret it for a second!
(Though it seems to spend more time at my friends house than at mine.)
I came to the conclusion that a 120v unit would do me just fine. Because unless you are going to be welding mostly in a shop/garage that is already wired with plenty of free 220v sockets and never need to weld any place else, I would stick with a 120v unit. Everywhere has a 120v plugs, 220v not so much.
In fact my friend got a mammoth Miller 220v welder (it was its own cart) for cheap and he ended up selling it and just uses mine all the time. Simply there was never a 220v socket around that he could use it with.
My Lincoln came as a kit that contains everything needed to upgrade it to use a gas bottle unlike the cheapy harborfreight welders (avoid like the plague btw). To be honest though I haven't even needed to get a bottle for mine yet, just using lots of flux core spools. Though I may soon since I have an aluminum grill that needs fixing.
Its welded every metal bar/tube/plate I can throw at it and tons of sheet metal parts no problem. I only just recently managed to trip the thermal cut-out. I was like, "welp I guess it does have a limiter", flip the switch, continue welding.
Now keep in mind I don't weld farm equipment or use my welder to make a living. If thats the case you may very well want to step up to the bigger units, but there is a substantial price hike.
Here is the advice I found most helpful when searching for what welder to get:
1. Stick to the good brands (Lincoln, Miller, Hobart)
2. Buy the best welder you can afford
3. Get an Auto-Dimming Welding Helmet
Ah hell post was alot longer than I was planning...
If money is tight - IMHO the extra reliability, duty cycle, and more importantly the extra cost of the heavier duty MIG welders is wasted on a hobby guy.
I just have a Lincoln Electric Pro MIG 140-Amp Welder that I picked up at Lowes a couple years ago. I don't regret it for a second!
(Though it seems to spend more time at my friends house than at mine.)
I came to the conclusion that a 120v unit would do me just fine. Because unless you are going to be welding mostly in a shop/garage that is already wired with plenty of free 220v sockets and never need to weld any place else, I would stick with a 120v unit. Everywhere has a 120v plugs, 220v not so much.
In fact my friend got a mammoth Miller 220v welder (it was its own cart) for cheap and he ended up selling it and just uses mine all the time. Simply there was never a 220v socket around that he could use it with.
My Lincoln came as a kit that contains everything needed to upgrade it to use a gas bottle unlike the cheapy harborfreight welders (avoid like the plague btw). To be honest though I haven't even needed to get a bottle for mine yet, just using lots of flux core spools. Though I may soon since I have an aluminum grill that needs fixing.
Its welded every metal bar/tube/plate I can throw at it and tons of sheet metal parts no problem. I only just recently managed to trip the thermal cut-out. I was like, "welp I guess it does have a limiter", flip the switch, continue welding.
Now keep in mind I don't weld farm equipment or use my welder to make a living. If thats the case you may very well want to step up to the bigger units, but there is a substantial price hike.
Here is the advice I found most helpful when searching for what welder to get:
1. Stick to the good brands (Lincoln, Miller, Hobart)
2. Buy the best welder you can afford
3. Get an Auto-Dimming Welding Helmet
Ah hell post was alot longer than I was planning...
#10
I'll throw one more in the ring for you after alot of looking I decided on a Miller 211 it is 120/220 with just switching the end of the cord it is few hundred more but I figured if I was going to spend the money I might as well get the best of both worlds. At 120v it will go a little thiner than a Miller 180 which is 220v only and when you switch it 220v it will weld a little thicker. Like I said it does cost more money and you have to decide what all you will use it for to make your decision.
#11
More worthless advise
I will second the reccomondation on the Hobart units, they are also very good, and if priced reasonably can serve you well. Regarding auto darkening helmets........Yes they are nice, I've used them a alot......However, good auto darkening helmets are priced around $300-450. You can buy one from Harbor Freight for around $90 but the life expectancy is about a year to a year and a half. They will work though, until an unexpected failure leaves you flash blinded!!!!!!! All of the fancy auto darkening units I've used have been company owned, and they don't mind dropping the cash for a helmet. As for my personal use, I have a good old fashioned older than Methuselah designed Jackson Shadow with a shade 10 lense. Time tested, rugged, inexpensive, effective.......what more could you ask for?! If you like there are also inserts availible for these helmets that are auto darkening, and will last as long as the high dollar helmets. The inserts will also cost you $200 though! I bought my Jackson through Ebay and gave around $34 to my door, very pleased with it. Also lets face it, if you are installing body panels (with a mig at least), you are only going to be making very small spot tacks, not laying down stacks of dimes. I hope this helps you out.
#13
EASB is the best welder hands down, but Lincoln, Miller, or Hobart will work fine for personal use.
The company I work has used all four of these brands and after the Lincoln, Miller, and Hobart fail it's always the quarter of a century old EASB that end back on the line.
The company I work has used all four of these brands and after the Lincoln, Miller, and Hobart fail it's always the quarter of a century old EASB that end back on the line.
#14
EASB is the best welder hands down, but Lincoln, Miller, or Hobart will work fine for personal use.
The company I work has used all four of these brands and after the Lincoln, Miller, and Hobart fail it's always the quarter of a century old EASB that end back on the line.
The company I work has used all four of these brands and after the Lincoln, Miller, and Hobart fail it's always the quarter of a century old EASB that end back on the line.
I bought a new Miller that day and it was the best thing I ever did. Due to my experience I would never recommend a EASB to anyone.
#16
I also have the Hobart Handler 140 110v and I love it. Bought it fron Northern Toll. Made some very nice welds with it especially replacing my quarters. It has the gas option also and I like the weld when I used the gas. I had a 220v welder from Harbour Freight and that was not a very wise decision. at all. had 2 settings on it and that darn thing would burn very hot and burn holes.
#17
I also have the Hobart Handler 140 110v and I love it. Bought it fron Northern Toll. Made some very nice welds with it especially replacing my quarters. It has the gas option also and I like the weld when I used the gas. I had a 220v welder from Harbour Freight and that was not a very wise decision. at all. had 2 settings on it and that darn thing would burn very hot and burn holes.
#19
Thanks Guys - I will only be doing sheet metal welding so it sounds like the 120v unit will be fine for me. I have a couple welding shops around I can use for bigger stuff. Also I think my Dad still has an old Hobart stick welder back from the days of owning a trucking company -(glad those days are done!!!) I am slowly picking up tools he in realizing he will not use any more - good for me. Only wish we had a mig back then. To find a hobart, miller, or lincoln weth gas new or used what price could I be looking at spending??????
#20
I found a new Lincoln 140 MIG welder for sale at princess auto ( for the Canadians) probably like harbor freight in the US. The price is $550 Canadian.
What do you think - good one for sheet metal????
What do you think - good one for sheet metal????
#21
I do make a living with 110 welders. I have a Miller 130, two 135's and a 140. We use them every day, often all day and drag them all over Texas. I mostly weld 16 gauge mild steel and 18 gauge stainless. Our favorite is the 130. Seems to run hotter for some reason. I have a Miller 232 at the shop and it does not like low settings, so we mostly use the 110's.
#22
I have a 110 volt 130 amp mig made by thermodyne. I paid $100 for it brand new in the box. (It's not stolen, I know the original owner). I also have a Miller 250 Mig. I really like the 110v for doing sheetmetal work and it has never given me any trouble and it uses a Tweeco style gun so parts are easy to get. when I do any big stuff the Miller ready and waiting. I bought it off CL for $400 with a bottle and a 10lb roll of stainless wire. as was said stick to a quality brand and it will last a long time. the cheap welders are fine if you only want to weld a quarter panel as they rarely last longer than that.
#23
Thanks for the information - this has helped in my decision on what to buy.
I will keep an eye out for a used one as it is for hobby.
Can't wait to find one - garage will be done soon!!!!!
I will keep an eye out for a used one as it is for hobby.
Can't wait to find one - garage will be done soon!!!!!
#24
I learned the hard way but I still got through my 70 Conv SX resto with a flux core only Campbell Hausfeld. It did OK, but with the flux core and no shielding gas, the welds are hotter and I burned through many times. I was stupid and did not even buy the unit that can accept shielding gas. I was only doing floorboards/trunk and such and I did the quarters but I used full quarters and you don't see any of the welds like you would with a skin or a hardtop so it was OK. I would not use it for any long visible welds or buttwelding.
So what they said above - Miller, Hobart or Lincoln, but whatever brand you get, use shielding gas.
So what they said above - Miller, Hobart or Lincoln, but whatever brand you get, use shielding gas.
#25
I was told a Mig Welder is the best wasy to go because its much easier to use thank the others.
Has anyone used an electric mig welder from habor freight and if so what are your thoughts? I need mig welder for my 65 cutlass but I am kind of broke, any suggestions besides saving up?
Thanks..
Has anyone used an electric mig welder from habor freight and if so what are your thoughts? I need mig welder for my 65 cutlass but I am kind of broke, any suggestions besides saving up?
Thanks..
#26
You have to be very careful with the welders that are a 220v-240v. Some houses that people lives in are old and the wires cant handle that much voltage and amps. You can burn your house down. If you're doing a small patch job in your garage (not at work) then go for the 110v-120v. I was tempted to buy a Lincoln 140 at Lowes during the black Friday but i'll wait for the promotion.
#27
I was told a Mig Welder is the best wasy to go because its much easier to use thank the others.
Has anyone used an electric mig welder from habor freight and if so what are your thoughts? I need mig welder for my 65 cutlass but I am kind of broke, any suggestions besides saving up?
Thanks..
Has anyone used an electric mig welder from habor freight and if so what are your thoughts? I need mig welder for my 65 cutlass but I am kind of broke, any suggestions besides saving up?
Thanks..
#28
You have to be very careful with the welders that are a 220v-240v. Some houses that people lives in are old and the wires cant handle that much voltage and amps. You can burn your house down. If you're doing a small patch job in your garage (not at work) then go for the 110v-120v. I was tempted to buy a Lincoln 140 at Lowes during the black Friday but i'll wait for the promotion.
#29
I had the 110 first and took it back and got the 220 with gas and it was not good as was the 110. After burning a couple holes in my floor pan I put it on the shelf and bought the Hobard, what a big difference it made. I dump the 220 in the trash where it belongs. Wasted my money and time messing with Harbour Freights welders, sanders and other air tools,Please dont waste your money!
Do you know of any good mig welders under $300?
#30
I dont think you are going to find one under 300 that is worth buying unless you find a used one someone is selling and that also could be risky. try ebay and see what is out there and that way you can get an idea of what type of money you are going to be spending.
#31
#32
I have seen a few welders sold at Home Depot which are gasless and I believe there Mig welders. Does anyone own or have any opinions about these welders listed below? The kind of work I need to do is the quater panels, floor oanels, trunk and small areas around the fenders and hood and this is just for my car which is a project.
-
Lincoln Electric
Weld Pak 140 HD Wire Feed Welder
Model K2514-1
$524.00
-
Lincoln Electric
Weld Pak 125 HD Wire Feed Welder
Model K2513-1
$419.00
-
Lincoln Electric
Weld Pack HD Feed Welder
Model K2188-1
$269.00
Lincoln Electric
Handy MIG Welder
Model K2185-1
$389.00
Lincoln Electric
80GL Wire Feed Welder
Model K2501-1
$249.00
-
Lincoln Electric
Weld Pak 140 HD Wire Feed Welder
Model K2514-1
$524.00
-
Lincoln Electric
Weld Pak 125 HD Wire Feed Welder
Model K2513-1
$419.00
-
Lincoln Electric
Weld Pack HD Feed Welder
Model K2188-1
$269.00
Lincoln Electric
Handy MIG Welder
Model K2185-1
$389.00
Lincoln Electric
80GL Wire Feed Welder
Model K2501-1
$249.00
#34
Hey guys,
My wife bought me the Lincoln 180 HD welder which should be the best out of the others I previously listed but now I am having an issue with the 230v power outlet. The outlet is located inside the house so I am wondering if I should just get a 25-50ft RV extension or just get the 140 HD which is 120v and use the gas.
Any suggestions?
Thanks..
My wife bought me the Lincoln 180 HD welder which should be the best out of the others I previously listed but now I am having an issue with the 230v power outlet. The outlet is located inside the house so I am wondering if I should just get a 25-50ft RV extension or just get the 140 HD which is 120v and use the gas.
Any suggestions?
Thanks..
#35
Where is your electrical panel located? Is it in the garage? Adding a 240V recept is an easy task if the location is accessible. The 180 requires a 40 amp Minimum circuit which is equal to a electric range. A dryer is only a 30 amp circuit. I'll help you through it. Just give me a little more info.
#36
Thanks Citcapp,
The panel is located on the other side of the garage but I am sure if I took some of the sheetrock off from that area I could probably access the backside of the panel but I am not sure.
The panel is located on the other side of the garage but I am sure if I took some of the sheetrock off from that area I could probably access the backside of the panel but I am not sure.
#37
Does it face into the garage or into another room. If it faces into another room but you can get access to the back this will be easy. First you need to look at the panel and see if it has space for a double breaker. If you can open the door of the panel and take a picture of the breakers and post it I can see what you have.
#38
The breaker box is on the outside of the house so the back of the breaker box would be facing inside the garage if I was to cut through the sheet rock.
I bought a few things such as the correct plugs rated at 220V 50A and now I just need to know what kind of wiring I need. I am going to stick with the 50A breaker.
I bought a few things such as the correct plugs rated at 220V 50A and now I just need to know what kind of wiring I need. I am going to stick with the 50A breaker.
#39
50 amp breaker works fine.
#8 3-conductor copper romex will work fine and you can get a matching receptacle for the welder plug at any big box store like home depot. Your welder has a three prong plug. the white wire goes to the neutral bar in the panel and the center prong of the plug. the red and black go to the breaker and the two side prongs. find the stud the panel is mounted to and cut a hole for a 4" square box a foot or so below the panel bottom. take the cover off and you will see knockouts find one that is 3/4+" in diameter and knock it out. put a connector on the romex and feed up through the hole and put a locknut on the inside. do the same on the box. install the 50 amp receptacle and cover plate then install the breaker and your done. You can make an extension cord out of # conductor #8 SO cord with a plug and receptacle to extend your reach in the garage. That is what I have done with a 35" cord.
Good luck
#8 3-conductor copper romex will work fine and you can get a matching receptacle for the welder plug at any big box store like home depot. Your welder has a three prong plug. the white wire goes to the neutral bar in the panel and the center prong of the plug. the red and black go to the breaker and the two side prongs. find the stud the panel is mounted to and cut a hole for a 4" square box a foot or so below the panel bottom. take the cover off and you will see knockouts find one that is 3/4+" in diameter and knock it out. put a connector on the romex and feed up through the hole and put a locknut on the inside. do the same on the box. install the 50 amp receptacle and cover plate then install the breaker and your done. You can make an extension cord out of # conductor #8 SO cord with a plug and receptacle to extend your reach in the garage. That is what I have done with a 35" cord.
Good luck
#40
I'm an Electrician in Canada and if he wants to use a 50 amp breaker then he needs a #6 wire. If I recall the welder is only 240v and only needs a 2 wire with a ground. To verify this the receptical on your welder has a nema # 6r 50 is an example. Let us know what that is. also you can also run pvc pipe for a short distance then drill through to the garage and right into the welding plug. Maybe a picture of the panel and the side of the house would help.
Let me know and we can help.
Let me know and we can help.