matt68F-85

I need to replace the trunk floor in my '68.
Looking for anyone who has experince with any of these options:

1. I am thinking about buying the Goodmark one piece and getting the body mount braces and tank supports separately.

2. I like the USA made 7 piece kit from Tamraz on epay. Probably the easyest to work with, looks like a butt-load of welding.

3. Parts Place full floor with tank supports and body mount braces already welded on, nice but looks a little wavy in the pictures. I can't really justify spending $459 and truck freight for something that needs to be fixed to look correct.

Anyone that has used any of these please let me know what you think.
Thanks, Matt

joe_padavano

The one piece will give you the best result with the least work, but it goes in from the bottom so the body needs to be separated from the frame. If you don't want to do that, you need to use one of the three-piece floors.

Hawk1061

I have a 72 convertible cutlass supreme and am wondering if the trunk floor pan is common between the 68-72 models. Anyone know?

Also, is there a difference between a convertible and a non-convertible trunk floor pan?

Finally, are any of the available repop trunk floor pans identical to the originals and made specifically for the cutlass? Or are they all generic replacements for Cutlass, GTO, Chevelle, Skylark? I'd like to use an EXACT repop for my vehicle.

Thanks.

Steve

matt68F-85

I believe vert and hard top are the same. I haven’t seen a vert specific part advertized.

I also think 68-72 are the same also (same basic frame and body style).

As far as an Olds specific repop, I haven’t seen one, everything seems to be for Chevelle. Way more Chevelles built than Cutlass.

You might try Desert Valley Auto for a rust free original, pricy but will be an exact fit.

By the way, I saw your other post but didn’t want to hijack.


Matt

Hawk1061

Matt,

Sorry for hijacking but since the topics were very similar it seemed appropriate to repost my question in this thread too.

Thanks for the advice, I have seen Desert Valley Auto Parts and I agree that they'd probably have something available but I was hoping to find something closer to Michigan. Of course being in the rust belt, I'm supposing that anything found in the region will be in semi-sad to sad condition rust-wise. Maybe I'll find something at Homecoming in Lansing on the 15th?? That would be ideal.

Since you too are replacing your floor pan, have you seen anything that details how the bodies were constructed? I have the shop manual and have downloaded the assembly manual for the 72 but I haven't seen anything detailing the order of assembly, what parts are required (braces) where to weld, etc.

In addition to the trunk floor pan, I'll need to replace the lower quarters. Since I have a pair of NOS quarters that I bought years ago and squirrled away I'm afraid that since the trunk floor pan is so rotted, as soon as I remove the quarters, the body is just going to fall apart... HOw do I know what is structuarlly feasible to remove all at the same time and what order to repair? Fortunately the interior floor pan is in very good condtion, just the trunk area is questionable. So do I leave the existing quarters, put in a new trunk floor pan, then do one quarter at a time? Or can I do it all in one big project??? Any thoughts/advice?

Thanks.

Steve

joe_padavano

The accepted method is to tack temporary braces across key parts of the body. The braces are usually angle iron or 1" square tube and you just go ahead and weld them in place to preserve stiffness and dimensions. Carefully disassemble the body by drilling out the spot welds and the order of assembly will be obvious based on which panels are on top of or under other panels. Do only one quarter at a time. Grind off the welds for the temporary braces when you are done.

Hawk1061

Thanks Joe!

matt68F-85

Joe’s advice is good.

My ’68 post coupe is completely stripped down to the body on rolling chassis.
My passenger side trunk floor and body brace are totally rusted out.

My original plan was to do the outer wheel wells and quarters,then the trunk floor.
I found a little rust in the inner, so I have decided to do the inners as well.
It could probably be patched but since it is all apart anyway I would rather put a new one in.

I still need to buy the inners and trunk floor.
I want to have all the parts on hand before I do any more surgery.

It’s really not as complicated as I thought. Once you get it cleaned up and get the seam sealer out, you can see the factory spot welds and how the panels fit together.

Matt