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Looks good in the picture anyway. Who knows what it looks like under the braces and if he cut it high enough at the rear.
I drove to WV to get one that looked good. Things like that you almost have to verify before you buy.
The rear windows on these lead to a lot of other collateral damage. Put drains in the bottom window channel like/similar to the optional stock offering.
They look similar to this. The hoses run through the trunk and pop out the lower rear fender behind the tires. There are a few different styles aftermarket.
Not only was my trunk gone so were the braces, rear window channel and the section between the tails lights. You did a great job, I should have bought the one piece trunk-live and learn!
Here's a pic after spatter paint. I used Zolatone 20 series over medium gray primer and sprayed it with a HVLP primer gun using a 2.0 tip (largest I had). The Zolatone TDS recommended 40-50 psi input but I had to crank it up to 70 psi with the fluid adjustment full open.
I think the next time I do a spatter paint job I'll buy or borrow a pressure pot gun. I have a shutz gun for undercoating and bed liners but I was afraid it would be overkill.
The rear windows on these lead to a lot of other collateral damage. Put drains in the bottom window channel like/similar to the optional stock offering.
Home made copper tubing drains. Not finished with the install - still need to epoxy seal the scuppers.
EDIT: I used 1/2" copper tubing and over-flared the end. Then contoured the flare with the pick end of a body hammer.
One more step prior to installing rear window - have to re-do the gray paint line on the lower pinch weld. I mistakingly cheated into the interior lower molding that needs to be black satin or the gray will show through the window.
On the advice of my paint supplier, I used gray direct to metal urethane primer and urethane clearcoated over it - the clear coat to prevent moisture penetration.
I was planning to use epoxy primer but my paint supplier advised otherwise. Go figger.
I'm going to install the window myself using the method and kit described here:
40 years ago, I had the body shop fill the bottom channel with butyl rubber before popping the chrome into place. If water can't get in, you won't need drains.
40 years ago, I had the body shop fill the bottom channel with butyl rubber before popping the chrome into place. If water can't get in, you won't need drains.
That butyl rubber - is it pretty easy to remove if ya need to replace a broken glass?
That butyl rubber - is it pretty easy to remove if ya need to replace a broken glass?
I was in the home window business for awhile. If the original glass was installed with the butyl, had to cut it out with a knife. Sorta like removing RTV. It is a real bitch to remove.
I was in the home window business for awhile. If the original glass was installed with the butyl, had to cut it out with a knife. Sorta like removing RTV. It is a real bitch to remove.
Imagine trying to clean that crap out of the pinchweld channel around molding clips and the white vinyl top that has to be peeled back - on a hot Texas afternoon.
I didn't buy the kit from the vendor as stated in my above post. Instead - I bought a tube of SIKAFLEX P2G urethane and a Riobi cordless caulking gun and a roll of CR Laurence 1/4 inch foam tape.
The process is fairly straight forward and the back glass went in with out a hitch. NOTE: The self cut triangular shaped cut in the applicator as described in the above video applies about a 1/2" tall triangular shaped bead which allowed us to vary the pressure on the glass at specific points along the uneven pinch weld flange and achieve the proper glass standoff from the channel. Also, we had three areas where the urethane was applied too thick and it squeezed out into the pinch weld channel. After drying it was easy enough to cut away with a razor knife.
One Caveat: The foam tape which we used as a dam only - not as a standoff shim; After removal, leaves a film of sticky adhesive that had to be removed with a single edge blade and wiped down with Goof Off solvent (or similar solvent) which took about 30 minutes. I may shop for a different foam tape system the next time.
I do advise practicing the application of the urethane bead (about 6-12 inches will do it) on a piece of plywood to set the proper speed of the cordless caulking gun. There's plenty of urethane in one tube to do a single backglass or windshield so not to worry about wasting product for practice purposes.
Glad we did it this way since I have 2 more windshields and one more backglass to install...so saved a few coins in the long run.
Riobi Gun - $100/ 4 installs so $25 per glass, plus Sikaflex P2G $10, plus Foam tape $20 = $55 per glass installed
Installing the the SS molding was a whole nuther story. Many expletives flew around the shop and almost led to flying tools.
We had 3 molding clips that kept falling off the aftermarket screws that replace missing nails. The narrow clips in the pic just wouldn't cooperate. Only after reverting to the wide clips were we able to seat the molding.
