hey everybody. this is my first time doing any big body work so some advice is needed. On this car there are some rust pits so i plan on 1) wire wheeling 2) por 15 the pits 3) epoxy primer 4) filler 5) epoxy primer 6) some flat black paint or something to seal it up just to cruise.
Anywho im going to need a sander to strip the car, and a gun for my primers and paint.
So my question is what is a good yet fairly inexpensive 6 " air sander,
as well as a decent yet not pricy gun ?
Thanks all!
P.S. if you find my process of body work flawed in any way input is greatly appreciated
thanks Dan

 

Do you already have your compressor because a sander if going to need a large volume of air.

 

After you get to clean metal and before using POR15 paint on some phosphoric acid. I think POR sells it as Metal Etch or Metal Cleaner or you can get it at auto paint stores. Follow the directions carefully. It will get to rust you can't even see and fix it. Then put on your POR15. POR sells a trunk and floor pan kit for about $159. That has everything you need including some very good gloves that don't rip or melt from chemicals.

Disclaimer: I have no fiscal or other interest in POR15 company and think other similar products probably do as good.
Jerry

 

yea i have a good compressor the volume of air is not an issue. thanks for the tip on the additional prep. dont you need to rinse off the phosphoric acid after it is applied? thanks

 

Should be an easy yes or no but restorers are mixed on this. Most directions say to neutralize it by rinsing with water. Some people say just leave it dry and don't risk restarting rust by using water to neutralize.

I'd say rinse with water and then use heat gun or propane torch on low to evaporate all of the water or you are just asking for rust to start all over again. If you leave it on I think there is some likelihood it will keep eating away at the metal.

 

actually, water doesn't neutralize acid, it only dilutes it. if you want to neutral it, you should mix in some baking soda.

 

Thanks for pointing that out. Guess I forgot my HS Chem class lessons. You are, of course, right on the money about following up with baking soda.

 

You do what the tech sheet for the product tells you to do.
Make sure it's compatible with the next product too.
Baking soda has been used to neutralize the tinner's acid when doing lead work for forever.
If you prime the bare steel right afrer you do the metal conditioning and prep like your supposed to you don't have to worry about flash rust. Only strip, prep and prime as much as you can do at one time.
No need for POR-15, the metal condtioner will neutralize the rust and the epoxy primer adheres better and is also better for sealing out air and moisture so rust can't start again.

 

alright thanks for the tips on the prep work. i think blue vista has it right with reading the label for what to do haha.
any opinions on good brands for sanders and guns? IR sander? even telling me that joe blow brand sander is garbage ....works for me and helps out.
thanks all!.

 

I've got an off brand DA I bought 5 years ago. It works great & I'm not good at oiling it. There are several similar brands in the $55 to $75 range. I'd check with the local auto paint supplier, you'll need paint later anyway.

From what I've been told sandpaper brand matters, some last better than others. I buy Mirka and would recommend it.

I've got a Habor Freight HVLP gun I bought in a kit (gun & mini-gun) that works good. I still use it some for shooting epoxy primer sometimes. (I use PPG's DP line)

I've also picked up a couple of used SATA guns from ebay. I gave about $125 for my NR95 and about $210 for the NR2000 w/o a cup but it looks and shoots like new. I think most of the other guys here use other brands though.

Hope this helps,

Don

 

thanks alot for the info don.
every little bit helps. its a good point about the sandpaper brands, its expensive and i would want it to last as long as possible.
thanks again