I need to do something here. I cleaned out all the excess old butyl and found some rust. Pecked at it real good with a pick and there are no holes. The window doesn't leak.Could I, Should I (or not) clean it out real good and use POR15 then paint, install my clips then fill the channel with ...RTV?,Butyl? not sure what. Don't really want to pull the glass if I don't have too but I will if it's right thing to do.This car is getting a matte black quick spray job in the spring and then I'm driving it for the summer. Probably put quarters in next winter and paint it. It's not a restoration I'm just looking to keep my solid driver a solid driver.

 

The right thing to do is pull the glass, sandblast the channel, and then paint.

 

Decisions, decisions.....as Joe stated, the correct procedure would be to pull the glass, media blast it all clean, metal prep it, and coat it with a good primer such as PPG's DP line. What happens when you just try to get by for a short time is you often times just expose nice metal, and can make the corrosion worse in a short time, just by giving it new metal to work on. I would probably leave it be, and pull the glass and do it right when you paint it in the spring.

 

Hmmm......I know I could get the glass out.....remove all the interior pieces then cover the opening with heavy cardboard and plastic?.....maybe use one of those small 'Spotblaster "type deals to blast it? Don't know how well those work.Don't have a sandblaster. Might be able to get it done at a body shop but will have to call around. I'll have to study on it a bit but it does sound like the way to go.

 

The little sand blaster a work great here is my window Channel after I pulled my glass never leaked

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Here is my self made patch I used the fusor bond body glue to install I know this method isn't for every one but I did a complete bare metal restoration in frame for under 4k
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If you decide to use por15 make sure you follow directions I am not sure if you need to do anything specific to ensure that the glass bond will hold

 

I was only going to use POR15 to treat the rust if I left the glass in but I think I'll take it out and blast it. More work but it won't be a problem that comes back later and bites me. I'll also know if there's any little surprises like you found. Those little basters are cheap and I think It would get the job done. Checked them out online last night and it looks workable.

 

I love lord products . the body panel fusor is fantastic. we got an s-10 blazer 20 years ago that was a roll over. cut the roof off an 83 and welded it at the a piller to the cowl. glued the skin to the rear roof supports from the doors back. still have it and the roof is still perfect. I also used it to replace a roof skin on a 66 cutlass a few years back too. use it on door skins is what it was first for. I remember the paint store rep coming in to the shop saying that he found some thing we had to try. something he said back in the early 90's was that door skins bonded with fusor were crash tested and that the skin tore before the seam gave out. LOVE it.

 

Yes they tested better than a weld I did my quarter repair with it best part is if need be I just pull out the tourch heat it up and pop it apart to replace