CMN2GTU

Hello.

After finding some spotty cancer, and doing some general research, I recently did this aforementioned treatment in the aforementioned location.

I don't usually like to bog a thread with pictures, so pics are in the link in the sig; if you don't want to see various poser pics and miscellany, jump to around page three.
Somewhere shortly after the roach.

I used the Marine Clean/Metal Ready/POR15/topcoat system as suggested by the manufacturer. I got a small bottle of each MC and MR, two small cans of silver POR15, and a spraycan of their BlackCote topcoat.
I think everything totalled to about $100 shipped.

The POR15 propaganda says that you should do this when the window is out.
I just can't manage this now, but still want to stop the spread of the rust, so my plan was to tape so that when I painted it went up on to the lip of the window and slightly over (under where the trim might actually cover it).
When the paint dried I trimmed this by scraping along the edge of the the glass carefully with my knife, but leaving the paint intact where it coated the rough edge of the window glass.
The rough edge of the window, the butyl seal that holds the glass in, and the channel are all encapsulated as one.
If the product is as waterproof and flexible as advertised, then this should seal more or less permanently everything it covered, provided the surface prep was done right.

While I don't ever make recommendations, I admit I do feel good about the way it looks, how the products performed in general and have confidence in its ability to work.
Not much else I can say about this that either hasn't been said or won't be figured out should you try it yourself, though some general thoughts:

-I am of the opinion it just does not stick to paint well, so plan to get down to the bare metal if you want it to do what it was meant to do. Rusty areas however, even without much prep, really do seem to soak it up.

-plan to waste a paintbrush or two. Or maybe three. And a shirt. But it does level very nicely.

-The label states Marine Clean works best with the hottest water possible, and this is no joke. I found it to be really effective for the project.

-Trim back any sloppy butyl sealing material before painting. At least one of my window trim clips is going to be a **** to get back in without a little grinding. Or risk puncturing the painted seal.

-The documentation recommends not leaving the can open, and I can see why. I used a cut in half vitamin bottle as a container to work from.
Since I bought two small cans, I now have one empty can (with lid) to use instead.

-One last note on the Marine Clean: This stuff is strong in my opinion. I did not get in the way of the spray, but general fumes were still enough to make me cough a bit, despite working in the wide outdoors.

-One little can of the POR15 rust preventative paint seemed to me to go alot further than advised. I had adequate paint in one can to do the channel, inner rear bumper, and some other areas. I still have another can, which I think I will use on the front window channel, outer lower firewall, trans hump and forward floorpan.

-Yer gonna sand yer a$5 off, b'leeeev dat.