Just a quick question, and I think I am more confused than ever, I am going to be replacing my 69 quarters with year one repops, yes they will need to be trimmed etc. I originally thought to flange them at the seam, then when I posted this question and the expert advice given it was butt weld only, while I am getting close to putting the body back on the frame I started to see if there were anything new I should know? I see a lot of folks on many different forums saying to use the backing strip method?
http://autobodystore.com/forum/showt...in-replacement

How is this any different ( or worse as you have 2 seams really) than flanging? I know flanging would be easier, but I want to do this "right" I thought about leaving some flanged "Tabs" along the seam, that I could used to secure the panel with cleeco clips, then tack weld between the tabs, when I get to the spot with the tab, remove the cleeco and carefully cut the tab, then tack as normal.

I also read that a preferred method is brazing? wow it seems a jump back 30 years ago where we would use brass rod and oxy/acetelyne when we needed to fix a spot?

it seems more confusing then ever. Any thoughts?

 

If a full quarter is unavailable, I use the butt weld process. Remove the damaged metal sections just a bit smaller than the panel you plan to install (usually I leave 1" overlap. Lay the replacement panel over the opening and align to the lower areas. Clamp it into place where it will be welded to the trunk drop off, outer wheel house, trunk panel, etc. I use small hex head sheet metal screws to attach the top of the panel to the remaining old panel. Once everything is in place, I use a cut off wheel to cut the new and old panel upper so the cut aligns both panels. I cut 6" to 8" then tack weld a couple of points, then back to cutting and tacking until the entire panel is trimmed and tacked. I can then finish welding the panel at all points. Be careful to not overheat the panel with a contionuous weld. Just weld a spot or 2 then cool.

 

I personally don't like flanging or lapping. I saw a nice older restoration 10 years ago that was bubbling along the entire length of the rear 1/4" panel because the panel was lapped. The 1/4 was junk. It's impossible to seal on the inside, especially on a convertible. The previous owner of my car lapped the driver's side 1/4 panel. It was completely installed and primered. I cut down the length of it with an .024 cutting wheel and the contact surfaces were rusted the whole way. I butt welded the whole panel spotting every 2 or 3 inches, then going back in between and so on and so on. It takes a while but the final result is a solid panel. On a convertible there's about 2 feet the you can't access from the back to grind. I painted the crap out of that area when I had my outer wheel housing out, and shot it in from the trunk and inside the rear compartment. When I did the passenger side I cut just above the panel breaks above the wheels and only replaced what I really needed. IMO it came out better than trying to install it just below the peak trim location, which is where most people cut to.

I don't why anyone would braze when you can MIG. Less heat = less panel damage


There's a good description of replacing the 1/4 panel on a 69 vert here.

I know this guy and he's a fanatic about his 69's:

http://www.69olds.com/conv.html

BTW if you can access the back of the weld hold a piece of copper flashing against it (with gloves on, of course) while Migging it. The weld doesn't stick to the copper and it makes a great backer thus a better weld

 

Thanks fellas that is what I thought!! I do like the idea of a few tabs to use to "hold" the panel and I will just cut through them and butt weld when I get there.... I know what your saying about brazing? but it seems that is what this one shop was promoting as it is better to do hammer and dolly, I know Joe P would say tig, but it is bad enough I need to get a new mig, I guess I just need to stop second guessing as both comments iswhat I thought too....

 

10x on the butt welds. Just got my driver side quarter welded in. I used cleco fasteners and sandwiched the panels between two small plates to keep things lined up while I tacked the panel in place. The tab method would probably work also. Patience is also key because the process is slow going, 1 spot weld at a time moving around to keep warpage at a minimum.

I used tabco quarters because they were closer to the original metal thickness than the taiwan made ones. I had a set of both before deciding on tabco.

 

It isn't by any chance Dr. No is it?. Sorry bud j/k I thought of doing exactly as you described but thought the tabs would do the same

 

It isn't by any chance Dr. No is it?. Sorry bud j/k I thought of doing exactly as you described but thought the tabs would do the same

 

What size wire did u use .023? And whose welder ? I was thinking of getting the Lincoln 140 c or the miller 140 because of the infinite variability on the amps the welder from Eastwood has the same but down the road I would probably be happier with a name brand

 

All I will say is that the top custom street rod shops NEVER use anything but a pure butt weld. Draw your own conclusion.

 

I heat you joe that is what I am going to do I just hope it turns out as well as I think it will
L

 

Eddie,

I have a Miller 175 and used .023 wire. And no it's not Dr. No... LOL. Normally, I get all types of Noah's Ark jokes which I've gotten pretty use to.

Noah

 

I had to have the driver quarter on my '68 replaced. The body shop did a fantastic job - I can't see anything to indicate that the piece is a replacement. And they used a repop quarter for a hardtop - had to trim it just right so it would fit, but they did, and it fit.

Randy C.

 

If your looking for a welder i would suggest the 140 miller we have one at work and use it all the time with .023 and c25 gas. I have a miller 140 at home too. I have used lincoln and hobart 140s cant say anything bad about either. If your garage is wired for 220 i would get a 175 so you can weld bigger stuff.

 

Don't forget the pickle.

 

i flanged mine in . Im not against butt welding i flanged mine in and they are high enough up to where you dont see them from then indside of the trunk as long as you use a good welding primer you should be good. i did mine 5 years ago and they are fine to this day. proper preperation goes a long way. The only reason i would not go with butt welding is im not the greatest at it the flange method i feel leaves me with aneough material to do a stronger weld on two pieces overlaping then welding two at the seam it is also harder to fix when you burn through welding if you do . i did a series of plug and stich welds

 

I did get the millermatic 140 and I also found an excellent article which kinda uses the best method from flanged and butt welding, the pieces are cut at the same time and but welded but the quarter is left long for support and held with cleecos hard to explain but here are the two articles.

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/t...al/photos.html
http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/t..._2/photos.html


plus there was an EXCELLENT thread here

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/major-builds-projects/51363-1969-442-convertible-restoration-project.html

I think my major concern now is how to shrink that area over the wheel well some, but like anything I guess you need to get B*lls deep and tackle it as it comes... I was actually thinking to flange and cut tabs into the flange like leave one 1 inch tab a 2 inch space a 1 inch tab a 2 inch space kind of thing and then cut the 1 inch tabs when I got there, but the other method shown works much the same and there won't be additional cuts.

 

i did not use tabs i flanged all the way across and used sheet metal screws to hold the panel on. i"ll have to check out the threads whe it comes to body work there so many methods it's unreal i thought id share my experience

 

And it is VERY much appreciated... I am just sharing all I have found, I know you used a complete flange and it came out awesome, some even use a backing strip? you are so right there seems to be 20 different methods and there are plus's and minus's for each...

 

I think the thing that has me most concerned now is that "bulge" above the wheel house, I liked the idea that brian had about spot welding it down against the old panel, I even noticed on the site I posted there seems to be some "warpage?" or shrinking needed? I am wondering if the flanging will take care of this? or if removing the bulge can be done with a shrinking disc?

 

you will get a certain amount of panel shift bulgin etc. i had the same issue at the rear of the quarter panel on both sides. You can weld it and right after hit it with a shriking hammer and see what it does . in a situation like that you might have to get creative.

 

I have been trying to get tabco quarters for about 7 months, do you have any connections? They keep telling me soon or they will get back to me. I dont want ot put tawain qtrs if i can help it. Thanks

 

I understand the tabco's are a bit thicker too more like the original, did i hear correctly that they are galvanized? that raises some interesting welding issues I think.

I would love for DynaCorp to come out with stuff but it is the same old story supply and demand...

 

I guess the best way is to start and deal with the issues... thanks for the thoughts... maybe a combination of all the techniques LOL...

 

Also remember metal walks as you screw it in or cleco then when you weld it will constantly change which is why you weld opposite sides back to back.You have to also consider not all stampings are dead nuts. I have installed some that fit perfect and others that neede tweaking here and ther .funny side note I used a sherman floor pan for my 72 it was stamped completly crooked I started trimming before I noticed. I made it work lol.

 

LOL.... jeez louise.... I am hoping I don't run into that much.... I did put the quarter up on the side and it actually fit real good, I don't want to do any cuting till he is resting on her springs so I need to finish the bottom side of the floor pans, which is a helluva lot of sanding and scrapping 20/20 hindsight, if I had a rotisserree and could have sent this car for blasting it would have been best, but I am at 75-80% so I just need to get back to it..

 

I called Tabco directly. I have the guy's name and number I spoke with at my desk at work and can post sometime tomorrow. Not sure if I just got lucky when I called about them but he check the warehouse and shipped me out a set within a week.

Eddie, the quarter skins do have a light galvanized coating on them which isn't heavy. I used my da with 80 grit paper to remove coating for welding.

 

Sorry it took me a few days but here's the contact I talked to about the Tabco quarters

Dan 800.782.5226