I am replacing a full rear QP on a 70 convertable and am wondering what to do with the lead filler at the top seam. Should body filler be used to cover the join or are there better products available?

 

Why not use lead?
Eastwood has a lead substitute that's supposed to be okay if you're worried about the lead toxicity, have the whole kits with the paddles and tallow and all that. The tinning butter is great, better than the old acid and solder tinning step. I used lead on my Vista to fix a dog leg that was creased, filled a few holes somebody drilled in the wrong place.
I've used it on a lot of cars over the past 40 years too , my old man taught me when I was a youth. I still have the same old bottle of tinner's acid, you don't use much.
Bondo will crack, I've heard of guys using All-Metal body filler and getting good results, I've never used it.

 

we are trying to do it with lead also.

it is stronger than bondo and can hold some flexing.

Than if a question to, i tried to soften the tiny pits and cracks in the lead.

they are small hear cracks, and not even much.

should i let it that way and smooth it out with paint?
remove it all, or is their a differend methode.

tried to heaten it up, but it is olds lead and works differend than new.

when i shave it in model, the hear cracks will apear again.

 

Used AllMetal 20 years ago on my Supreme quarters...just now starting to see signs of a hairline forming - and that's with quite a few clutch dumps over the last 20 years!

 

I used Eastwoods Evercoat metal to metal on that seam, and where I glued on the quarters for the first coat 2 years ago. So far, nothing can be seen.

 

For my 70 Conv and many others he has done, my painter makes a sheetmetal plate to cover that depression and welds it solids across. He never has issues doing it this way. He said filler always cracks in that area on a convertible.