I not ready to get a new bumper yet, buget is reserved for other parts. However, I am going to drop the bumper to paint the frame since all the other parts off for the suspension project. I thought while I had it down, I could try to straighten it and shine it up a bit. Any suggestions?

 

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lay it down on 2 4x4's then out down another 4 4x4 blocks preferabaly wood then carefully push down on it with your foot bounce a bit to get it to strech back ot its original shape. You esentially use the blocks as dollies so it wont stretch much beyond the wood blocks . My rear bumper was like that and i fixed it the same way .

 

Copper, does that also align the bumper better to fit the area of the headlight bezels? It looks like the bumper has a slight outward bend on the drivers side, or is that something that will go away when the braces are adjusted and torqued?

 

I had some thoughts similiar to that. Just to see if I am understanding you correctly Would it be something like two long 4x4 that would cover the length of the bumper, two short 4x4 that would go sit accross the two lengthwise 4x4s say at the bolt holes. Then maybe one up by the nose, then step down on it betweent the vent holes?

Or, are you saying to place the 4x4's on the back side and stand on them to push down on.

 

if the dent is inward you want to reverse the damage. so you will have to lay it on its face have 2 go across short length at each end then one on each side right after the dent ends roughly after your vent holes., place rags over the wood blocks . If you alignment is off you can adjust it the lower brackets., they do have some slots and if that does not work get a come along and a concrete post you have to put rags over the hooks to not dent the bumper and gently ratchet the come along until you get the desired fit and then just pull it a little bit more after that so then it springs to the fit you want. That will take care of the fit from the bumoper to fender if the bumper is leaning in. You may want to use a flat wide j hook usually 2 inches wide with a chain on the end., you can make one so that you dont have something pointy pulling on the bumper. Heavy rope can also be used. You can put your on twist on my ideas to make them work how you want. I have fixed my bumper with the wood block method and i adjusted my bumper with a come along., along with pulling the crease out of my firewall after my accident. After studying your pics some more you may want to pull the bumper while its on. If you grab a come along and pull the bumper forward where it is dented that should close up that gap near the bumper ., As you pull the bumper forward it should close up . you want to reverse the damage ., and from the looks of it you want to pull it in a frorward and slight upward direction to get the bumper to fit right., as you pull up it will close up the to side of the gap and as you pull out you will pull the dent a bit you might still have to do the block method . It might sound confusing but give it a shot and pay attention to the movement of the bumper and fit . You will have to over pull slightly so it will spring back to it's shape so to speak but not much.

 

Not to be the new guy horning in here but... back when I was repo man I picked up a few cars and tweaked the bumpers a little. Your bumper looks like a tow sling did that damage. I'd try to straighten it out while it is still mounted. Use a tow strap through the lower hole cutouts. Hook the strap to a come along and hook that to something solid. You need to try to recreate the same angle that the sling had when it pushed it in with the tow strap to pull it out. Down and away. If the car is raised on a higher parking surface with a drop off on one side it will help with room to pull the bumper. There was a burned down body shop next to the tow lot and I used the old loading dock. There were even frame pulling tie downs still set in the concrete. I hope what I'm explaining can be understood. I used this method many times, especially on those S10 pick ups and Blazers with body color bumpers. Those things folded in like tin foil. I used this method to pull my 67 Cutlass front bumper back into shape after it had been quick pinned by a tow truck driver.
If you pull the lower center back closer to original it may help the driver's side to move back closer to the body. Yours looks like it is high on the passenger side too. Good luck.

 

I used the 4x4 method w the bumper off the car ....my bumper was worse than Troys to start. it now looks pretty good, but i couldnt get the leverage to bend it up and down its a little high on one side (as it sits on the car) any front to back bending was (relatively) easy

 

In addition to the above I use a BFH and a short 2x4 and pound them straight.

 

Is that where you hit the retaining wall on the freeway? I saw the pics on the other post the other day. I'm glad you got out ok, and can fix it.

 

No not that bumper that one was toast. My rear one came from an arizona car and it was dented pretty bad. But I did straighten the frame end and the fire wall with a come along and the rear of a forklift lol.

 

You know I was trying to figure just what someone ran up against to push it in that way. I think you are right, the way it looks in person would certainly justify your prognosses. The creases are pretty parallel.

 

Thanks guys, a lot of food for thought. Sounds like it would be best to do it on the car, but this puts me in a bit of a jam. I was going to pull the bumper to paint the rest of the frame, as the front suspension is out of it. Naturally, I'm not doing any pulling on it while it is on the jack stands, but to put the suspension under it, I wanted the frame painted. I'm going to need to think this one through a little further. Maybe, I take it off get it close with the blocks of wood, repaint the frame, install, then tweek it by pulling it. What do you think?

 

That will work. fwiw when you decide to pull it leave the side bracket bolts loose so the bumper is more flexible. Just get dent close becasue it could change shape a bit once you pull it. Then just tweak your brackets asneeded and it shoud be good.

 

Here's one that's beyond repair I think ....

 

Not a problem for a good plating shop..

 

I fixed mine in the same area wood blocks and 3lb sledge hammer no marks in it .

 

even if it's bent upward too ? It's hard to see in the pic , but it's bent a couple of different ways .

 

Yep hammer down then out it's a fine dance but . You would hammer it down on the car and you would hammer it out with it off. The key is to watch where the metal wants to go and keep it in check

 

Bryon, looks like the major bend is on the left side of the license plate.