To start this off , I found a baby can of POR-15 , and in the second pic is the driver side rear qtr I did about three years ago , and only put on one coat .... The car has seen water dirt grime and salt since then , so I think this stuff is great ! ..... FYI .... That's not rust in the pic , It's the flashlight beam !

 

I'm finally getting to this repair that has been waiting for the better part of a year . The first pic shows the inside of the trunk pocket , you can see light through the metal in a couple of spots . This is by far the worst rust area on the car , and it's a shame because the rust was only half as bad when I bought the car 11yrs ago . The second pic shows an outside shot of the damage . I like to think I was quit crazy for driving on this tire in the third pic . The last pic shows a way better replacement , but very old tire ! G78 x 14 .

 

What are you using for a patch. Hand made or cuting it from a donor car.

 

I'm thinking this side is a little past a patch panel so I'm gonna need something fab or cut from a donor car . The rest of the wheel well seems real solid

 

Nice i was just curious as to your approach when i did my car i could have done patch panels but i figured this would be a good time to learn how to hang panels lol .

 

The first shot is a closer pic of the damage all sandblasted . The second pic shows how filthy the bottom portion of the trunk pocket , I'm gonna have to buy some special cleaning tools to get this cleaned up for the POR15 I'm gonna put in there ... It was coated once before , but where I couldn't see I missed some rust flakes and had to knock the bondo out and redo . The other side is only one coated and lasted a few years with no rust return . The next shot is a pic of my compressor set up and blaster , and the last pic is my CHEAP engine hoist and a 455 to the left of that , and those long boards bolted together is the training wheels I had to put on my CHEAP engine hoist so it wouldn't topple over .

 

A nice tip i learned from an old timer at my old body shop was to leave the very corner of the leading body line in place if you can and just weld in your sections to that so that you keep that crisp original line. and its much easier to do than to hand for one big section. which from the looks it looks like most of the line is there .

 

If the metal isn't too thin I usually cut it out and flatten it so I can trace it onto another piece of sheet metal. But it looks like that one is too pitted and will probably fall apart if you tried to flatten it out.

 

Ok, here's maybe a wierd question. Is that section of quarter panel the same, regardless of trim line? I know the OVERALL quarter on the CS is different than the rest of the Cutlass line. But the lower part by the wheel opening - are they the same there? If they are, Bryon I might have a solution for you.

 

i think they are similar in that area i dont think there is diffrent wheel opening trim between cs and s models .

 

I was even wondering if a 4dr was any different in that area .

 

probably close to enough to use it. Hey oldsguybry i heard there are a few good wrecking yards in the kenosha area milwaukee ish you know any good ones i constantly am on the prowl for parts.

 

Well if the CS and others are compatible there, so would a 4 dr. Do you have a line on one locally?

 

originally I dremeled out all the thin metal , there is still a little on there to hold the bondo in place , just to make the car look a little better until I can do the right thing with it . I had bondo on it before and it looked pretty good , even close up it was hard to tell where the holes/damage was. I need to stop any further damage to this area if I am to try and trace anything in the future , so I'm gonna put at least 2 coats of POR15 on there to be safe . I have a spray gun and the filters I would need to shoot some epoxy at it , but it would take me all day to find the stuff.

 

Hey, I just noticed you changed your avatar stuff. What's with " The Weak One "?

 

No , but I thought I may have a better chance at someone hacking up a 4dr for me since its a less desirable model .

 

if you buy a good filler they are usually enriched with zinc and other anti corrosion additives . I have done rust repairs on daily drivers and have not used por 15 and i have not had one car come back metal prep is the main key on rust repair . On my cutlass i didnt use any special protection for anti corrosion so to speak. On the rocker panel i patched a 9 in. section with industrial liquid nails and sheet metal shaped and flanged to fit right . it has been 5 years and it has seen rain and moisture and i am yet to see a rust bubble.

 

no comment ... inside joke kinda actually . I would like to get a better pic of this car for the avatar before it looks worse

 

a friend of the family lives here with my mom , and for the room and board he fixes her house up. He put this patio with fire pit in and cut the behemoth 50 yr old silver maple down

 

Yowsa! Ma's got a nice patio there. Send that 'friend' up to see me. I got a deck they can re-build.

Bry - am checking on a partial quarter for you if you are interested. No guarantees yet, just sent the email. If it works out you might be able to get some good lower OEM quarter cuts out of it.

 

I appreciate that , but I may have to wait a bit on that one ( further down the list ) I have to examine the other sides wheel well lip , I may have a problem spot to where I may need some of that goopy stuff from 3M to seep in between the two layers of metal , and then you just wipe off the excess . I will have to look back at my records on what its called , but you generally pour it in the inner wheel well lip area after paint to protect the areas where the paints can't reach , but It don't look like it would seep in the direction that you would want it to , like the car would have to be on an angle. This " Stuff " I speak of has special properties to stop rust too I believe .

 

No prob Bryon. Like I said I don't know whether there's actually donor parts avail on this car. Just sent the email. If it turns out they are good? I'll prolly help the guy cut out some patch panels. He can store them till someone needs them. He bought the car to part out and has the inside pieces he was looking for. We are planning to cut out the firewall/dash because it's pristine and should be saved. Lots of guys here need that part. We'll see how it works out. I'll keep you in mind as I watch you tilt your car to pour that liquid magic into it.

 

no tilting cars for me , I'll figure something out when I get to that part ....and yes on the storage of the panel , because I can guarantee that I will need it down the road and WILL be interested .

 

It's been a while since I been to a bone yard , but there's a big one around West Bend I beleive , and each long isle had the cars seperated by makes and models. I remember looking for frame options back when I had the 68 Toro , and they had like three or four of them in a row , but they were all laying on the ground ... so I knew those were toast too , and I did not own my 72 CS yet so I dont remember how many Cutlass models were there if any.

 

I use a cheapy pump oilcan and put thinned epoxy in it to coat the insides of pinchwelds,they are only a buck or two at harbor freight with a flexible hose on it.Just make sure you clean it thourgoly when finished so you can reuse in future.

 

Ok, to be on the safe side, we'll probably also cut out the lower quarters if they're good and save them too. Can hardly wait till next Sat.

 

I'm not even gonna say anything at this point except WTH ! I'm dishing money out I dont have to get a BRAND NEW one later tonight ..... I have some more pics and info on what I've done since yesterday , once I get the new anti-virus/malware installed I WILL BE BACK ( as Arnold would say )

 

I just got the new computer hooked up and running , and so far so good. I knew the other one was gonna go soon , because it had a buldging capacitor on the motherboard. after awhile the capacitor started oozing some orange looking stuff . It was maybe a week after that and it froze up , and then that was it ... The picture below is the orange stuff I was talking about ... and NO it's not drugs!



and here's the oozing capacitor itself.



Back to the car.
I bought a few small brushes for the cleaning of hard to reach areas , and I may even have to use some of them for the application of POR15 in those hard to reach spots . The dental mirrors are a must for this area on the car to make sure that you are not missing anything . The side marker on the other hand has a very rusty bracket that holds it on to the car which you know what that means ... another " MAW " moment !



To protect me from the temptations of the MAW's I have listed some helmets below . They are a little small , but I have some duct tape ! Do you think any of these will work ?

 

I'm gonna have to sandblast a spot I missed , clean up the sand , get the dirt and grime off again , let dry and finally put the paint on . I really need to get to those fenders and get the supports off so I can deal with the rust I got going on there , hopefully that will go a little better .

 

That's a great idea ! Thanks

 

Great ! I was actually contemplating buying them now , but had to dump a bunch of cash for the new computer .

 

I hope I'm not doing this simple repair all spring , now that I had to drive in the rain , I will have to reblast it all again . That part don't take but 10 minutes maybe , but then you have to clean up the sand in the trunk pocket and clean it. I'm gonna have to work fast when I get to the fenders , because my lazy **** don't have a car for my DD yet . I'm gonna have to take fender off , remove support , blast and paint in a weekend so I have a car to get to work ! I'm kinda a putz so I hope I can pull it off !

 

oh and if you are wondering how I'm gonna attach the support again? I was gonna drill all the way through in 4 hidden spots and use a small machine screw with a nut and washer to hold it on till someone can weld back on later .

 

Am i wasting my time typing and posting pictures ? If so , i'll stop !!!!

 

not wasting your time,lots of readers get tips from the forums and pics help.we just dont have anything to say right now.ecept i would have a welder handy to put those braces back in the screws will start rusting around the holes soon and youll be back to ground zero .

 

I like the follow ups and updates

 

Don't know if todays paint is compatable with POR-15, but there's a cheaper way!
Get some Metal-Prep, dilute it as directed, and just spray it on - kills rust immediatly!!
Also, you can use a Bondo product that's a thick fiberglass resin you mix the hardener into - it's waterproof. Spreads and forms nicely!
Did many a rust repair with this combo, and never had a comeback - in 30 years!!

 

Bryon, the quarters on that car are shot. In fact there's not much left of them. Sorry bout that. On the good side though, the cowl/dash metal is all like new. No rot or even surface rust. When I pulled the cowl stainless, I was amazed how good it looked. So that's a future trip with a sawzall.

What's with the talk about quitting posting stuff?? The short answer is NO, don't succumb to those thoughts. BTW, I like the fire helmet best out of those small MAW ones you have

I'm also having some puter problems. For some reason, access to the web is taking forever. To launch this thread actually took over 45 seconds. I'm used to it only taking about less than 1 second. So I probably will have to take it in for a checkup. A lot of times it sounds like the puter has an old scuzzy drive in it, so somethings definitely wrong. Wierd though, not all sites are hard to pull up. Have you had any delays with CO loading on your PC?

 

sorry , i didn't even bother reading any replies to my last outburst of words .... The truth is my world is crumbling around me , losing the wife , my 9yr old boy seems to be heading for destruction with this ADHD/anxiety crap ( my daughter is ok yet though , she's 7 ) , and my favorite aunt is layed up at my mom's basically dying waiting for a liver transplant .... I just gotta go for awhile I think.

 

well , I can't afford to have a panel welded in at this time , so I'm just rigging it for now so it looks better .... once the sun is out again and I don't have to be at work or run a bunch of errands I'm gonna do a quick reblast , clean up , and finally put some POR15 on it . Then after all that is done along with the fender repair I have not started on yet , I'm gonna carefully fill the holes , sand and primer so it matches the rest of the primer if that makes any sense .