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Exterior floor pans. At a cross roads

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Old March 30th, 2018 | 08:36 PM
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NotDads442's Avatar
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Exterior floor pans. At a cross roads

My 67 442 was painted in 99 and buffed our well enough not to justify painting it. I am taking the body off the frame though to paint the chassis and re-Bush everything. I had to have a poor (riveted in) drivers pan welded in so I do have some exposed bare metal to take care of. This car will be a nice driver.

I’m at a crossroads to either re undercoat it all including that pan repair or just that area and was thinking of power washing the bottom and was wondering if you can paint the dirty brown all factory undercoat. I’ll have this super clean chassis and really don’t want to see that dirty old floor pan.

Any suggestions or pics you have?
Old March 31st, 2018 | 07:15 AM
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I'm confused. You're going through all the trouble to blow the car apart and pull it off the frame any your question is about how to cover what you've described as a less-than-properly-done floor pan patch? Once you have to cut holes in the floor to access the body mount cage nuts that break loose and spin, you'll hopefully realize that you need to do a proper floor pan repair.
Old March 31st, 2018 | 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by joe_padavano
I'm confused. You're going through all the trouble to blow the car apart and pull it off the frame any your question is about how to cover what you've described as a less-than-properly-done floor pan patch? Once you have to cut holes in the floor to access the body mount cage nuts that break loose and spin, you'll hopefully realize that you need to do a proper floor pan repair.

Perhaps I wasn’t clear enough. I bought the car last July. And one point a new floor pan was riveted in. I had the rivets and silicon removed and the pan was reused and butt welded in. There was so much overlap in the rivet job we were able to reuse the pan. The car was bought in and always in dry Eastern Oregon. I am extremely confident there won’t be any issues on body to frame fasteners.

I hope I don’t have to cut holes in any pans.
Old March 31st, 2018 | 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by NotDads442



Perhaps I wasn’t clear enough. I bought the car last July. And one point a new floor pan was riveted in. I had the rivets and silicon removed and the pan was reused and butt welded in. There was so much overlap in the rivet job we were able to reuse the pan. The car was bought in and always in dry Eastern Oregon. I am extremely confident there won’t be any issues on body to frame fasteners.

I hope I don’t have to cut holes in any pans.
Your best bet for removing the body bolts is to use an impact wrench. This helps loosen any rust. You may want to consider drilling a small hole directly above each body bolt and using the small red "straw" to squirt penetrating oil on each one. A dab of seam sealer will close these holes.
Old March 31st, 2018 | 09:18 AM
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I own a repair shop. We have this inductive heat tool (1200 F)that concentrates heat in a much smaller area than conventional torch methods. I may try that as well.
Old March 31st, 2018 | 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by NotDads442
I own a repair shop. We have this inductive heat tool (1200 F)that concentrates heat in a much smaller area than conventional torch methods. I may try that as well.
I can think of two reasons why you don't want to do this. First, all you can access is the head of the bolt. The cage nut with the threads that rust are inaccessible. Second, there's a good chance the heat will set the rubber body mounts on fire.
Old March 31st, 2018 | 05:17 PM
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Well all the body bolts came out with absolutely no issues. I do have a question though. There was one captured nut on each side that was unused and just had a rubber puck bushing pressed into the body. Why is there an unused nut?

Last edited by NotDads442; March 31st, 2018 at 05:24 PM.
Old March 31st, 2018 | 07:51 PM
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would this be right in front of the back tires??was it pressed in the body or just stuck to it?when i had my 66 jacked up to replace the bushings i wondered about that bushing too.so thought well the bushing kit comes with an extra for the convertibles so i put it there.but for the life of me could not get a bolt to thread in,then tried a 3/8 bolt and it screwed in and tightened right up.i have to ask too why did they not use a bolt there??joe got an answer??
Old April 1st, 2018 | 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by cherokeepeople
would this be right in front of the back tires??was it pressed in the body or just stuck to it?when i had my 66 jacked up to replace the bushings i wondered about that bushing too.so thought well the bushing kit comes with an extra for the convertibles so i put it there.but for the life of me could not get a bolt to thread in,then tried a 3/8 bolt and it screwed in and tightened right up.i have to ask too why did they not use a bolt there??joe got an answer??
yes that is the one
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