i have been contemplating having my hood, trunk, doors, and convertible top stripped by electrolysis to get rid of the rust you can't see. the real question is, how to seal the inner cavities of the hood, trunk, and convertible top frame once they are stripped to bare metal again. i know they are dipped as a whole shell from the factory to seal everything, and once stripped through electrolysis, it will strip all of the inner protection, that is still intact. you can see rust starting on the inside cavity of the trunk, as well as along the rear lip seam, but nothing on the surface as of now. the doors are starting at the bottom seam, but haven't hit the outer skin yet, and i can get inside them to re-seal them, so that part will be easy.

 

EAstwood sells that internal frame coating.
I used it to coat some areas up underneath my package tray and inside the rockers.
The tube allows you to get just about any where.

But will the electrolysis remove the hoods rubber insulators that separate and bond the hoods frame from skin?
just watch out there Duane.

https://www.eastwood.com/internal-fr...ce=google&wv=4

 

Are you doing a concours restoration on your Oldsmobile? If so, maybe there's a way you can have your hood and doors dipped to prevent corrosion the same way the factory did.

 

i talked to a local restoration shop, he told me to first pour some self etch epoxy primer into the cavities of the trunk and roll the panel around to allow the paint to get into tall the nooks and crannies. i am going to call around more tomorrow, i spent today stripping the doors down and getting them ready. i was originally not going to do the doors, but more i look at them, it's just cheap insurance to get rid of all the rust in the seams

 

That's similar to the way those fuel tank liner kits work. Just plug the holes with name brand masking tape. Keep us posted.

 

I used Ospho to neutralize the rust lurking inside my original trunk lid; it was a messy process but I felt it was worth the mess. Ospho is basically phosphoric acid which will convert rust into Iron phosphate turning the metal black in the process. My deck lid only had surface rust, nothing cancerous, but the rust was hard to reach inside the deck lid frame. So I laid out my deck lid, upside down on a pair of saw horses over plastic (Ospho will etch concrete) and poured a little Ospho inside then "sloshed" it around to coat all surfaces. I propped it up is various positions to be certain the Ospho would flow into all the pinch welds and edges, letting is sit for several hours in each position for maximum effect. I think this process would be more difficult to do with a hood, but it was reassuring to see all the surface rust inside my deck lid turn black.

There are other "rust converters" in spray can form that can be sprayed into hard-to-reach spots, the Eastwood product was mentioned earlier but there are two more products both called "Rust Reformer" but they are not the same. The first one I've used is made by Iron Armor and sold by Harbor Freight, it's more of a liquid and will flow into gaps and seams, the second one, also called "Rust Reformer" is made by Rust-o-leum and is more of a rust convertor/primer and sprays like paint. I hope this is helpful to you.
Rodney



Iron Armor "Rust Reformer" liquid spray


Rust-o-leum "Rust Reformer" sprays like primer