The body studs that hold the nylon fastners the chrome snaps onto have been ground off my 69 442. I was going to make a H/O clone without a vinyl top car and now have decided to go back with a vinyl top. The studs go above the rear quarters and around the rear above the truck deck.[If I remember corectly]

Have any of you tried to replace the small [screw/nail shaped] studs? Any ideas from learned body men?

Thanks guys.

If you can help me, I'll email you a pic of the winner of the Stren fishing line home-made bathing suit contest.

 

Don't you use a stud welder with a trim rivet tip and trim rivets? I've never done it but I would guess you do that? they sell the things, I don't know really.
Can I still see the winner?

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...mType=CATEGORY


Edit: I thought this one out more, I know this will work.

f0757a0a53d08682.jpg

 

Oh yes, those studs are fantastic when sanding one's car down to bare metal. Can't tell you how many times I hit them which sent my sander skidding across the car.

Very similar studs are used in the rear and front window wells to attach the stainless trim clips. Seeing as more than half of mine have rusted away, my body man was assessing what they were going to do to replace them. If they did a good job of it, I'll send you some pics when I get back to AZ.

 

If that's supposed to be double-sided tape, no it won't work. The stainless trim is made from formed sheet. There is no flat surface on the backside to attach the tape to.

Try jamming your fingertips into one of them when hand sanding...

Whatever you do, do NOT drill a hole and use a screw. That's just asking for trouble. As noted above, use a stud welder. They sell the correct tips for these small trim studs.

 

No I may be stupid, but I ain't crazy.

Who sells the studs? Althought they carry the nylon fastners, Fusick doesn't carry the studs.

I know they have to be pretty exact. When assembling cars in the past, I've noticed that too much paint on the studs can streach the nylon trim fastners a little and the trim won't snap on like it should.

 

Search stud welder trim rivets:

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT

http://www.handsontools.com/Motor-Gu...g_p_13582.html

http://wayneofthewoods.com/Auto-Tools/31041-D.html

 

Joe that's no problem. If you just stuff the back side of the trim with paper, it will give you a flat surface with which to affix the double sided tape. The paper method is also good for stuffing rust holes and then bondo-ing over with 2-4" of filler layer.

Some of the worlds leading car restorers use these techniques. You can see some fine examples on eBay!

 

You have to use the correct paper.

3200537966_27f07d0bd6_m.jpg

 

Of COURSE! What was I thinking?

Actually, I originally thought you were serious because I just got through reattaching the side impact trim strips on my Custom Cruiser using the 3M double sided trim tape.

 

Boy that seems awful expensive for restoring the window trim studs
As I get ready to install a new rear window panel it will need about 6 studs for the trim clips. Kind of hard to justify that kind of $ for a few studs especially anyone on a tight budget. But I suppose if it's to be done right...

 

Or, just take the car to an auto body shop and pay then to spot weld the six studs in place...

Or find someone who might have a stud welder that you can borrow. How soon do you need to do this? I'll be visiting family in Central MA later this year.

 

I stopped by a local body shop to inquire about shooting studs and they said they would line up the clips, drill holes and use pop rivets. Hell I could do that!!!!!!!!!!!
There's plenty of shops around to check with at a later time. So just incase nobody close to home can help out I think I'll go with a screw in type stud and seal weld from the back side. Who's gonna know? That's probably the route I'll go anyway.

Enjoy your trip to Central MA later this year.

 

This is wrong on so many levels. First, it's a good way to re-start pinchweld rust. Second, the body shops usually use aluminum pop rivets, so the galvanic corrosion accelerates the rust.