I want to put the original small side moldings back on my car. I need to fix some dents and block out the panels but to get them correct and these nibbs that hold the moldings need to be ground off. how do you reattach the moldings after?

 

The best way is to weld on new trim studs using a spot welder.

 

You can also use the small screws they sell to put windshield molding studs (very similar) back on.

 

Which doesn't work on the OP's front fender trim. In any case, I've never understood why one would go through all the trouble to repair rust holes in the pinchweld then drill holes in it, just asking for leaks and more rust.

 

Thanks for the insight on this. After i get everything blocked out, I will need to remove the anything primer filler down to bare metal to weld on the stud. which should be ok because the molding will cover that. would you use a small burr or a flatten drill to make this spot? I was looking to buy one of those to pull some dents anyway so that works.

 

Why not just block the body panel above and below where the trim goes and not remove the nail heads that hold the trim. Any small imperfections at the nail heads will be hidden under the trim . Why are you worrying about blocking the part of the panel no one will ever see once you put the trim/molding back.
I'd think the trim/molding is wider than the 1/4" line of the panel those nail heads are in a line of that not getting that part blocked to perfection would not matter.

 

I have thought about that as well I have done some bodywork in my time, but I am not an expert, So I wanted to get some opinions from people on the group as the best way to go about this. I have painted a couple cars my son still has the Chevelle I painted 20 years ago and looks great. I have been looking at shops near me to get the bodywork and paint done because I just don't have the time unfortunately most are booked out two years and they want 15k or more to get this done. I will probably get some heat from others about this, but my car has some dents not major buy any means but it is also completely rust free. I know marital cost as well as labor rates have all gone up but 8- 9k would be more like it. Just trying to keep things moving to get it on the road.

Thanks for your input

 

Ya, body shops going rates are nuts. They rather do insurance work anyways.
Good luck. I'm not a pro, only painted one car in my garage so, take what I said with a grain of salt, but I just figured if it won't be seen, why sweat it.

 

My 67 vista has a few of the upper window molding clips screwed on from the factory.

 

If you're doing bodywork, and you're a relatively new one to it, I'm sure you cannot metal finish the work to perfection, and not need body filler. If you use filler, then you'll have to use screws to attach the trim clips. You can't weld, after doing filler work. Body shops even use pop rivets to attach clips like that. Not the best idea, as they do loosen up sometimes, but if you prime and paint over them, and put some rust preventative on the backsides of them, they'll hold up pretty well.

 

^^^THIS^^^

If you're going to use the OE trim and those studs are how the OE trim is secured, then why remove them?

 

Because, even if the filler work is only 1/8", it will be almost as high as the the studs. It WILL show up in paint to see that bad transition.

 

Yes, I am reinstalling the factory trim on the car. I won't be installing the trim behind the rear wheels, and I have modified the trim behind the door on the rear quarter panels to match the pointed front fender trim. I just don't like how the trim on the back of the quarter panels slants upward.

I have media basted the doors sealed and primed them I am going to see if I can block them out on either side of the studs without any issues. I may have to screw on the clips not sure the doors are very straight and clean except for the small dent in the passenger side door in the picture.