I got a 77 cutlass and we're the vinyl top was I got big rust holes whats the easiway to fix

 

Welcome to the site, there is no easy fix. Cutting out the rusted area and welding in patches is the approved method. Anything else is a bandaide and the rust will be back. Post some picks of your problem areas.

 

I would take Eric's advice. I had the same issue on my 76 when I purchased it. Knowing it needed to be repaired when I bought it.
I had huge holes in around the opera windows and just above the lip on the quarters.
I had the body shop cut much of the roof out and weld in new sheet metal. No vinyl now and I like it much better, other than my wife's baby blue colour choice haha.
You could always fibreglass it then put new vinyl on, but eventually moisture will be its enemy.
If you plan on keeping the car I would replace/metal patch it.
Post some pics of your 77 when you get a chance.
Cheers
Eric

 

Any patch that doesn't involve cutting out the rust and welding in new metal will deteriorate over time and start to leak again. Sorry, but there is no easy or cheap fix for this.

 

 

The easiest and cheapest way to fix that is with another body shell.

 

I have to agree with Joe, if the roof is that bad, I couldn't imagine what the bottom of the doors and lower quarter panels look like.
Your looking at big bucks unless you can cut a roof off another car and weld it in nice .
What plans do you have for your 77?

Eric

 

Others have looked to donors.

 

Unfortunately, it's not just the roof. This is the whole quarter panel that needs to be replaced. The C-pillar is part of the quarter panel. The factory seam is above the opera window.

 

I'd find another '77 Cutlass in better shape and use this one as a parts car.

 

I purchased the re stamped 76/77 rear quarters, they only come up as far as the lower opera window. He would need both rear quarters and a roof section to fix it properly with aftermarket stampings IMO.
The C-pillar isn't part of the rear quarters that can be purchased. As stated the rear quarters only come up to the bottom of the opera window.
Hope this helps
Eric

 

there's rust a few other places but not that bad the car runs good and is in good shape other then that rust holes but I'm gana try to fix it if I can !

 

how much did it cost u when u got urs fixed at the shop

 

Not that's some serious rust, is driver side the same? Need to put car on hoist and check floors and frame. Might be a resurrection instead of a restoration. As mentioned above might try to find a better body.

 

It can be fixed, don't know the story behind this car and how attached, sentimental value it has to you, what is your goal for this car? As other stated finding another body is probably the best choice if your going for a show car. If you just want to drive it and have it look presentable there are ways to patch and seal it up. Will cost lots if you have others do the work, not sure how handy you are working with metal.

 

If you are fixing this through your wallet, the sucking noise will be be substantial.

 

This NOS factory quarter panel is on ebay right now. BUY IT.

 

passenger side- http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-NOS-Oldsm...tTyym5&vxp=mtr
driver's side- http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-NOS-Oldsm...NTyym1&vxp=mtr

 

Reasonable price on these quarters

 

I didn't get the full NOS panel that Joe P posted, my rear quarters were $225.00 each, (similar/ A little higher than the Goodmark quarters at Carid) only came up to the bottom of the opera window I forget where I purchased them here in Canada it been a long time . To have both rear quarters put in, lower door skins $85.00, lower front fender repairs along with the roof $200.00 and complete color change it was $5500.00 total up here in Canada. I supplied the panels and paint. That was in 1998 so prices have went way up since then.

 

The factory quarters on eBay, include the b an c pillar inner panel already welded in. This would be the right way to fix the subject car, if the rest of it is still solid.

 

Absolutely he would need that at very least. My 76 wasn't bad up along the pillars. Mine was the around the fender lips and lower on the quarters. The roof along the front windshield likely due to the use of A/C over the years. I was fortunate to find a complete roof from a cut up 76 back then.

 

Which is why I posted them in the first place. ANY OTHER SOLUTION will cost FAR more in labor than just using the factory NOS panels welded at the factory seams. Don't waste your time trying anything else and DO NOT kid yourself that there is a less expensive option (other than starting with a different car).

 

I have new white vinyl top with the center seam I will sell ya for $65

Go with the quarter replacement that Joe P posted that includes the opera window. Don't be surprised if some extra work will be needed behind the panel or on the outer wheel houses.

Just as well do both sides in my opinion.

 

Joe, you are awesome with posting pictures!!! You contribute so much to CO and help in many ways!! PUT-R-THER CHEERS. I know I appreciate it very much.
I wish I knew they were available back in 1998. I went about it the hard way. Well my buddy that does body work on the side did. However I paid him well for the times.
I spoke with him last night is a matter of fact and asked him how much it would cost to do another 76 similar to mine today.
He said about $7500.00 supplying the parts.
These cars aren't as widely available compared to the states, No scrap yards have anything up here from 80's and older nothing!!. But if it were me and money isn't an issue I'd use the panels Joe P posted if I couldn't find a nice rust free donor body.
I invested in my 76 to keep it so I didn't care about the costs just wanted it done properly.
If your 76 means something to you than you will make the rite decision I'm sure.
All the best with your restoration
Cheers
Eric

 

Here's the thing I don't get. People will put in all kinds of effort and money to replace the quarter panels, roof skin, doors, front fenders, and floor pan (often with less-than-perfect lap joint welds), but balk at just getting a rust free shell instead for less money. It's just sheet metal, and once you've replaced roof, quarters, doors, fenders, and floor, what's left? It's George Washington's axe.

 

I agree Joe, but it takes time to go and look at used 70's cars, perhaps driving for miles and miles to have a look, pictures and comments don't always match the body YA' know haha. Its cheaper to grab another body yes, but its time consuming and a major PITA.
If he's got the coin but no time then I would have it cut up and welded as well.
The money doesn't matter if its a keeper IMO anyway.
If I had to do my cutlass over again, I would have it cut up and welded back together since my time is worth more than going searching for a rust free car.

 

If you just want to fix it up cheap for now get it running and looking half decent on your own.
I would buy some fiberglass sheets or roll depending how they sell it down your way. Pick up a couple cans of tiger hair fiberglass, hardener. Hit the rust with a grinder as best you can.
Use duct tape to patch all the holes and lay fiberglass sheets over the duct tape.
Sand it down well and paint the car on the cheap or plasti-dip the whole car.
Total cost maybe $800. bucks if plastidip yourself or $1500 for a backyard body guy to shoot it with paint.
How does it run? How many miles on it?
Brakes/suspension good/ gas tank?
Let us know what your thinking, maybe we can be of more help with your decision
Cheers
Eric

 

I agree with Eric, if you are doing this as the car has a sentimental value be it the model you grew up with, your first car, a relative had, or something you envied when you saw it new on the lot go for it.

I did.
If you are for the restoration to do a sell on say Mecum or the equivalent... Well, perhaps the value may be there in the years to come, but I am not a gambling man. I did mine to enjoy driving on weekends/week nights. Not exactly a daily driver.

 

No one is suggesting not building a car you want to - hell, I'm the poster child when it comes to pouring stupid money into a project against all logic. Just learn from that, take a step backwards, and assess ALL your options from a cost and time standpoint.

 

I am a perfect example of this phenomenon !

First car is my white 77, my dad and I restored my senior year of highschool. That was 27 years ago, car still looks great but not perfect, was restored on a highschool budget, but does have high sentimental value.

Thru the years I have collected parts-

Quarters cut off a car in Arizona for the wheel wells
NOS quarters
New floor boards
California bumpers
And the list goes on

I woke up from this stuper when I went and looked at a rust free 76 that I recently purchased for less $$ than the parts listed above. While I don't plan on selling my white 77, I am planning on putting my energy in the 76, less work and less money and overall will be a nicer car.

Sentimental value makes people do crazy things- not always the most sensible.

 

Which is, of course, followed by the change in project direction, requiring you to undo a bunch of stuff then spend even MORE money...

No, I'd NEVER do that....

 

Nope haha, and I never put one penny more into my 76 cutlass than its worth either LOL !! The appraisal is so far off, Pffffft... I musta' had 2 "rookie" appraisers!! Cuz they were within $200.00 of each other, they talked!!

Eric