oldzy

My frame was powdercoated. I now have my rear end completely gutted.

Are there any potential issues of it being powdercoated as well? I am pretty sure my frame was dipped and zinc coated before the powdercoat. Some how I don't think that would be a good idea on a rear end. Can any of the surfaces inside the rear end potentially get damaged?

Aceshigh

I don't see why it would be an issue.

Powrdercoating will protect eon's longer then anything painted IMO.

oldzy

I am also curious about the cover... should it it be bolted on or not. If not on, the surface where the gasket goes might get coated for example. Not sure that is a good idea either.

I guess I will ask the powdercoater guy when I see him next. I briefly asked him a long time ago and he said he could do it, but needed to be gutted inside completely.

oldzy

Then there is the issue of getting marked up, chipped etc AFTER the powdercoating (or paint which can easily be touched up) when I take it to the shop and the sloppy tech marks it all up... or when I install it on the new frame. Will have to use a piece of rubber/cloth or something under the jack. I just picture it getting marked up shortly after regardless of which method is used to coat it.

6inarow

x2 on the powder coating lasting much longer. It is going to be a lot harder to damage it during installation too. Check out this forum for powdercoaters.

http://powder365.com/forum/

66ninetyeightls

The powder coaters will mask everything properly before they apply the powder. I see my local powder coater doing engine blocks and heads on a regular basis which has a lot more stuff to mask off so a rear end wouldn't faze them.

It takes a lot more to damage powder coating in my experience and there is nothing to say that if it did get chipped you couldn't just touch up that spot with touch up paint

oldzy

What about the prep part? When I took my frame in, it had primer and some POR15 left over. I assume they 'dipped' it into an acid bath or something. They then dipped/zinc coated it, then powdercoated it.

I would prefer not to have the rear end sandblasted if necessary... but how would the powdercoater clean the exterior rust and crap? If dipped, what about the machined surfaces inside? I just don't want anything damaged is all.

tx

veltboy618

Ever thought about POR-15 or Chassis Saver?

Olds64

POR 15 is a good alternative to powdercoating. It is relatively inexpensive and is more durable than rattle can paint.

Ranzan

Blasted and Por 15 on mine it turned out great

gearheads78

Powder coated mine at the same time I had the frame done. Turned out great.

oldzy

Could an 'acid bath' possibly mess up any machining inside?

66ninetyeightls

It would definately damage any bearing races in the housing which could be replaced but shouldn't damage the housing itself.

oldzy

The rear end is completely gutted at present, except for the 2 pinion races I have yet to bang out.

fjross

I also powder coated the entire frame and suspension parts but I used Eastwoods Rust Inhibitor and then there Epoxy Chassis Black semi gloss. My motor shop hot tanked the rear down bare steel. I preped it with some saftey solvent and then painted it. I like the idea of being able to touch up if needed in the future and Eastwoods Chassis Black is a very close color match to the 45% gloss powder coating. I recently had to change my diff. cover and used some saftey solvent to clean up the gear oil and the Epoxy Chassis Black held up fine to the solvent. I will post a pic when I get to work.

oldzy

If I do decide to 'paint' it... what is the proper procedure? I am likely going to use Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black if I do.

After I have the rear end blasted, should I put something like Eastwood Rust Encapsulator on first? Or should I use some other form of primer instead for bare metal?

oldzy

For example, what about Eastwood's Self Etching Primer?
http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-s...parent_id=5000

oldzy

or Extreme Chassis Black Primer?
http://www.eastwood.com/extreme-chas...rimer-set.html

fjross

After hot tanking the rear, I used a can of saftey solvents and rinsed down the rear and wiped if off with clean rags. I then used a couple coats of Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator as the prime coat and a couple coats of Extreme Chassis black for a top coat. Attached are some pics of the painted rear with the powder coated suspension/frame.

Dave

oldzy

What's in the hot tank? Just water? Acid? Do you have to sandblast the rear end before the hot tank?

fjross

My engine shop did the hot tanking for me and I'm not sure of the solution, but I gave it to him just the way it came out of the car. My preferance would be the hot tank since sand will find its way into the rear no matter how good you tape it off. I ended up using a gallon of solvent to rinse out the rear that I had blasted to remove the media. I was very happy with the results from the hot tank, no oily residue or media to remove.

Chesrown 67 OAI

Dave - What % gloss black is your frame? How many choices are there when it comes to selecting the % of gloss when powdercoating?

fjross

I believe the frame is 45% gloss black.

Aceshigh

I use a self etching primer for EVERYTHING I paint by rattle can.

THey have some at most of your Automotive stores or hardware stores like Home Depot for half that price.

Anything under the car I'd use POR-15 at the very least though. Way better then paint.