Removing windows and doors 69 Cutlass
#1
Removing windows and doors 69 Cutlass
Hey guys, I'm working on stripping down the body for a frame off.
The doors seem to be really well lined up as they are. Is there a way, or reason, to mark where the hinges are that would survive blasting, or is it best to just start anew on lining up the doors once everything goes back together?
Same question for windows.
The doors seem to be really well lined up as they are. Is there a way, or reason, to mark where the hinges are that would survive blasting, or is it best to just start anew on lining up the doors once everything goes back together?
Same question for windows.
#2
Hey guys, I'm working on stripping down the body for a frame off.
The doors seem to be really well lined up as they are. Is there a way, or reason, to mark where the hinges are that would survive blasting, or is it best to just start anew on lining up the doors once everything goes back together?
Same question for windows.
The doors seem to be really well lined up as they are. Is there a way, or reason, to mark where the hinges are that would survive blasting, or is it best to just start anew on lining up the doors once everything goes back together?
Same question for windows.
Of course, after doing this I STILL have to readjust the doors...
#4
To clean up the door and jambs properly there's really no way of not removing all the bolts that hold it in place. You could also deep scratch the jamb areas and door contact outlines to identify where the start point would be to getting them relocated (which is what Fisher recommends).
Any time I've replaced doors I basically had to dedicate at least an hour of time to alignment to get them just right. It's a bit harder on a 2 door than a 4 door because of the weight and length of the door. Use a door cradle (or anything that helps support the door at the far end) when making your adjustments. Do you have a Fisher manual? They list the tolerances in one area, and the Removal and Installation in another. I found the required information on page 6-39 of my 72 FBW manual - it should be identical for 69.
Any time I've replaced doors I basically had to dedicate at least an hour of time to alignment to get them just right. It's a bit harder on a 2 door than a 4 door because of the weight and length of the door. Use a door cradle (or anything that helps support the door at the far end) when making your adjustments. Do you have a Fisher manual? They list the tolerances in one area, and the Removal and Installation in another. I found the required information on page 6-39 of my 72 FBW manual - it should be identical for 69.
#5
I'm curious which method u ended up using to mark and re install the doors. I'm in the same boat. my doors fit and shut nicely and Im not looking forward to re hanging them especially since I don't have someone to help. I like the idea of drilling out a couple in the hinge plate and using a couple drill bits to get them relocated. I already have the door glass out so I'm hoping a floor jack and a prayer or two will be enough to get them reinstalled with out fkg up the paint anywhere.
The rear quarter windows came out pretty easily. If you still need help removing them I have the factory service manual amd the fisher body manual.
*On a side note/random question. My 442 is a sports coupe (post) so it has the full door frame and door vent window. My question is how hard would it be to put a one piece window glass in the door to delete the vent window? My guess is that a regular coupe door glass would work if it was cut down a bit to compensate for the door frame. I think it would look really good not having the vent window and would give it a subtle custom look....
The rear quarter windows came out pretty easily. If you still need help removing them I have the factory service manual amd the fisher body manual.
*On a side note/random question. My 442 is a sports coupe (post) so it has the full door frame and door vent window. My question is how hard would it be to put a one piece window glass in the door to delete the vent window? My guess is that a regular coupe door glass would work if it was cut down a bit to compensate for the door frame. I think it would look really good not having the vent window and would give it a subtle custom look....
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February 22nd, 2013 12:14 PM