johnsw-31

So I just bought a frame, it has all new parts on it. he sand blasted it, fixed the bodymounts. but painted it with Rust-Oleum primer and paint. it looks nice. I am just wondering if this will hold up or should I have it repainted, the car well not see winter or rain (hopefully)

Any thought would be appreciated, thanks for your time

john

Tony72Cutlass'S'

POR-15 is arguably the best,

I've got an old boat trailer that i painted with POR-15 about 10 years ago, it's seen salt, snow, rain. All of it. Still not a spot of rust.

johnsw-31

Very new to paint. what is POR-15?

Eddie Hansen

John poor 15 is a chemically advanced paint that has excellent adhesion to rust it is an excellent product IMHO I just stripped the entire underside of my car and applied it. Then the tie coat primer than chasis black I also used it on my frame trouble is yours is done already por15;really needs to bond with the metal I would think you will be fine with what's been done you could spray it with por15 chasis black but if the suspension etc is done it will be a lot of work does the paint look good? I have had rustoleum fail in the past on the basement hurricane doors but who knows ... if it was me I want to know it will last I would strip it, use poor 15 and then shoot it with chasis black while it is still tacky from the poor 15 or you could wait, use etching primer than spray it. It is a very very durable finish. Depends on whatyour budget in time and materials are. Again the rustoleum might be fine but IMHO it is the low end of the quality scale as opposed to a ppg primer and paint, a por15 etc.... I think 1 six pack of cans will do your entire chasis and probably 2_3 cans of chasis black rattle cans

Eddie Hansen

Www.por15.com. just in case

L69

Good stuff, a bit expensive but def worth it compared to having a newly done frame having rust show after one season.

MDchanic

It is am-broh-see-ahhhh -- the nectar of the gods.

- Eric

Eddie Hansen

Damn I didn't know I could drink it lol.

Octania

Only if you are a God

with rusty pipes...

Tony72Cutlass'S'

Ambrosia was a fruit nectar in an adventure game back in the early 90's. King's Quest.

Another tidbit from the useless wealth of knowledge i like to dig into.

MDchanic

... Also the food consumed by the gods on Mount Olympus in ancient Grek mythology.

- Eric

rocketraider

And something my mama always made for Christmas and Easter holiday dinner. Sometimes she'd spike it with a little white rum. 2 or 3 different citrus fruits, bananas, maraschino cherries, sometimes some shredded coconut, and the booze. She was also known to send my daddy (and later me) to the bootlegger's for a gallon of white likker sometime around the end of October. She'd put peaches, cherries or other fruit into it for holiday cheer. Believe me when I tell you you could get plumb smashed eating that fruit that had been infusing in the 'shine.

If the car will be garaged and not see bad weather on the roads, I think the Rustoleum will be OK. I'll be honest. For protection POR-15 is great. But I always thought it made a car look over-restored.

Not to mention the stuff is impossible to remove should that be necessary in the future. You get it on your hands, it has to wear off, or used to unless they've come up with a solvent for it.

johnsw-31

Thanks for the info. i will look into it.

Run to Rund

If the climate isn't severe, Rustoleum holds up very well, particularly if primed.

Tony72Cutlass'S'

It's amazing how this keeps me entertained at the office, I just spent an hour on Wikipedia looking this up.

Eddie Hansen

Just a tip on this fellas, if you are careful, and use gloves you should be fine, if you get it on you, stop, use any type aromatic thinner ( spirits, lacquer thinner, etc or naptha ) and it comes right off, it's when you let it dry you have problems.

442rocketdave

Eddie is right on that one, I used to work for several car magazines and Eastwood would send me in the early 90s products to do articles on, we blasted a frame and painted it with POR-15 and sent it to a shot blaster which shoots bb like balast and when the frame came out it was mostly still black! And I got the stuff on me and I wore for a week! Its worth the price! and the effort. You dont want to do it again in 5 to 10 years.

kitfoxdave

I have been using the POR-15 stuff... with a foam brush, and it comes out looking like it was sprayed! parts look factory new! and it takes approx 10 days to wear off your skin! DOn't ask how I know!

Bernhard

I'm not a fan of the hobby paints. I think the Gold standard is sand blast epoxy prime and top coat with a quality brand of industrial grade paint like Imron {truck paint} As soon as the frame is sand blasted it should go straight in to primer. This is not a diy project. Spray booth and supplyed air and safety training required.

Charly9g

be aware to use POR-15 (if sprayed) in a well ventilated area. it can effect your lungs in a very serious manner. It drys differently than normal paint w/solvents. It drys by removing ALL of the moisture. But it is GREAT when applied properly.

501Paratrooper

I LOVE POR-15, but if I had a bare frame I'd have it powder coated.

allyolds68

POR-15 likes rust. If you blast and clean a frame properly I would not use POR-15

This is what can happen to POR-15 when it's applied to clean bare metal:

Intragration

I like POR-15 too, but there are a couple concerns I've had. First, if the metal surface doesn't have rust on it and it's not roughed up sufficiently, I've found that the POR-15 will peel off in sheets. It's also sensitive to UV, it will change color if it's exposed to sunlight. Not such a big deal on the frame. If you're going to topcoat it, it needs to be while it's tacky like Eddie said, the chassis black is a good idea. POR-15 takes forever to dry but once it does, it's pretty darn permanent, you would have a hard time topcoating it once it's dry. But for a permanent fix for rusty areas, it's fantastic. In this case, if the frame looks decent now and you don't plan to drive it in the rain or snow, I'd leave it alone.

Edit: I was typing this as Alloy was posting, that's exactly what I was talking about.

MDchanic

Not if you paint on a damp day.

- Eric

Intragration

Very interesting. It still takes a couple hours though, no? How quickly have you seen it cure to the touch? On just a normal day, I've touched it 4 hours later and it's still like I just put it on.

MX442

POR means "PAINT OVER RUST", not paint over bare sandblasted metal.

Paint your frame with a quality epoxy primer and topcoat.

oldsguybry

X2 ..... sort of . I use POR15 myself , but if you can afford it and have the proper equipment , I think epoxy or powdercoat is the best . I've had good and bad with POR ( with the little exp that I have ) . The one thing I know is .... If you sandblast and clean the metal afterwords , POR works great ! If the metal is not cleaned right , and / or is too smooth , it will peel off for sure . After all that I read on here about it , I would do what I said in the first sentence .

oldsguybry

Now that I read some more of the entries on here , I do NOT agree with the fact that you should not use POR after sandblasting .... If it holds up good over rust , how would it NOT hold up good over another VERY rough surface like sandblasting ? I think the metal just needs to be wiped clean with a thinner after you sandblast it , and it SHOULD hold up pretty good , but I still think that an epoxy or powdercoating would be better .

edit .... You ALSO need multiple coats in order to get the edges covered enough , so rust will not come back there . I also noticed that you can scratch POR fairly easy in some cases , which will also lead to rust in the end .

oldsguybry

I found that if you have a rag handy , and notice it on your skin right after it gets on there , it wipes right off for the most part . Make sure you put a piece of plastic in between the lid and the can when you cap it back up . I found that , if you use a zip lock bag , it works great ! Sandwich bags are too thin and will rip all apart when you seperate it again . If you leave the lid off the can for more then a couple of minutes , you will get a dry skin on top of your POR . Put the lid back on the can immediately when you pour it off !

Majic Jack

Check out, zero-rust.com. I have used this product with positive results. Costs about half as much as POR and is much more user friendly.

My442

I agree.

47 Convertible

Sandblast and epoxy primer followed by chassis black if you want correct GM look.

jstrits

personally I hate the look of por 15. Its too shiny and if its over rust it looks thick and cheap. If it is pitted or scaly,I;d have it blasted, skim coat the pits with filler prime and gm recondition paint it or use dupont dp 90 type epoxy. the car I'm doing now I had powdercoated. it saves alot of material,time and is harder than paint. looks great and for $600 its a no brainer. don't know why i didn't powdercoat earlier.

'66 88

I too love por-15, but a less expensive option with more sheen selections (flat, matte, semi, gloss) is a product called chassis saver. Its virtually identical to por-15 and just as tough. Been used in the big-rig industry for years. Spray or brush on. Just another option.

rhodyrocket2

I like POR15, but I only will use the original gloss as a tough primer and then topcoat. The semigloss doesn't seem to work as well for me, I got some rust started after I used it. SO I always use two coats of glossy POR15 and then topcoat, works great.

MX442

Epoxy is the way to go. I bought some epoxy from Southern Poyerethane last week. The sales guy said that I will like the finish so well that I won't want to top coat it. It has UV protector in it. No need to cover.
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/

lemoldsnut

POR 15 is great no question. However, lets me honest. Your question is what has been done enough. Yes it is. We all build our cars like they will be treated like crap. Then we pamper them and treat them like they will not last if we don't. If you do use por-15 I suggest you top coat it. It is great at stopping rust. It also is not so good with uv protection. Not that a frame sees much of that. But, it won't see much that would cause rust anymore either. Just my two sense/cents

442rocketdave

I would agree that POR 15 is a great product but used as directed, I also have restored many cars and found the color is NOT RIGHT! so blast then prime with por15 gloss black then topcoat or if you have the money powder coat, last alternative is prime with epoxy and top coat with epoxy in the right factory color. With todays powder coating systems it is really the best way to go.

Sampson

Amazing timing on this thread. I put 2 coats of por on my frame today. 2 hours between coats. Temp was in the 70's with 0 humidity.

Kirk455

I know that I'm coming into this thread a little late, and this may be a dumb question, but my 72 olds has rust all over the frame. The body is excellent condition, and the car only has 11K miles on it. So I don't want to take it apart or anything, but I do want to prevent any further rust on the frame. Would I just apply Por-15 on to parts of the frame that I can get to while laying on back under the car???? Or should I just leave it be?