help with corrosion

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Old Dec 21, 2012 | 05:25 PM
  #1  
archeryshooter's Avatar
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Tony
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 450
From: wisconsin
help with corrosion

live in wi my car is in a garage without heat Im getting corrosion spots on my alum intake, rims ,valvecovers and alt. anyone got any tricks to stopping it with some kind of spray or something?
Thanks Tony
Old Dec 21, 2012 | 06:03 PM
  #2  
droldsmorland's Avatar
CH3NO2 LEARN IT BURN IT
 
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 5,619
From: Land of Taxes
Put heavy duty heavy mil plastic down on the floor even if you have epoxied it. Insulate everything you can to include the door(s) walls, ceiling, overhead and man door seals etc… Seal any cracks with the expanding foam etc…Purchase a high end self-defrosting dehumidifier (not all of them defrost) and run it when the temps go from -20 to +40. This is when the "sweating” happens. Don’t run it below freezing cuz the coils will ice up even with the defrosting type dehumidifier. Circulate the air with a small fan. Keep the door closed. You could also try one of those car bags with several desiccant bags; I don’t have any experience with those.
Wax the hell out of the chrome. Use WD40 on bare metal, Ospho or LPS in the inner frame rails and other inner structures where you wouldn’t want to spray WD40...lastly move to Arizona! :^)
Old Dec 21, 2012 | 10:55 PM
  #3  
Olds64's Avatar
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Posts: 18,160
From: Edmond, OK
I've never had this problem since I live in Oklahoma. I do use Simple Green and a shop rag to clean the valve covers and aluminum intake whenever they get dirty. It works great.
Old Dec 22, 2012 | 05:39 AM
  #4  
ziff396's Avatar
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,015
From: Near Muskegon Michigan
I too put down heavy 6 mil plastic under my car. My walls and ceiling are also insulated. Most condensation comes from dramatic temperature changes from cold to warm especially on damp days. I had that problem when the garage was cold and the outside temp rose quickly. Open the doors and "poof" a wet car. Like said, keep the doors closed and let it warm slowly. Also had the same problem when running a propane or kerosene heater. They create moisture. Now I use a wood pellet stove (dry heat) and haven't had any problems. When I'm not out in the garage in the winter, I still run the stove once in awile and the temp never drops below say 35-40 degrees as the concrete stays warm and keeps the temp up for a few days or so. Haven't tried the de-humidifier, but it sounds like a great idea if you have moisture in the air.
Old Dec 22, 2012 | 12:17 PM
  #5  
archeryshooter's Avatar
Thread Starter
Tony
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 450
From: wisconsin
Thanks all! I do have the floor covered my walls are cement too. Im going to have a new garage sometime soon. someone told me about a product called everbrite im going to give it a try
Merry Christmas to you all
Old Dec 22, 2012 | 04:36 PM
  #6  
RetroRanger's Avatar
72 Olds CS
 
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 6,657
Originally Posted by droldsmorland
Put heavy duty heavy mil plastic down on the floor even if you have epoxied it. Insulate everything you can to include the door(s) walls, ceiling, overhead and man door seals etc… Seal any cracks with the expanding foam etc…Purchase a high end self-defrosting dehumidifier (not all of them defrost) and run it when the temps go from -20 to +40. This is when the "sweating” happens. Don’t run it below freezing cuz the coils will ice up even with the defrosting type dehumidifier. Circulate the air with a small fan. Keep the door closed. You could also try one of those car bags with several desiccant bags; I don’t have any experience with those.
Wax the hell out of the chrome. Use WD40 on bare metal, Ospho or LPS in the inner frame rails and other inner structures where you wouldn’t want to spray WD40...lastly move to Arizona! :^)

Wow great reply, all good info IMO.

When you reduce eliminate the moisture the problem is gone. With a cement floor and walls that will be more difficult.

the wd40 is good advice too I spray the bare metal parts on my bikes and sleds when they are stored and it really helps to reduce the corrosion that can form especially on al parts like the manifold
Old Dec 23, 2012 | 03:27 PM
  #7  
archeryshooter's Avatar
Thread Starter
Tony
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 450
From: wisconsin
Originally Posted by RetroRanger
Wow great reply, all good info IMO.

When you reduce eliminate the moisture the problem is gone. With a cement floor and walls that will be more difficult.

the wd40 is good advice too I spray the bare metal parts on my bikes and sleds when they are stored and it really helps to reduce the corrosion that can form especially on al parts like the manifold
Also heard on another form about a product called S100 and another one called GIBBS
Old Feb 10, 2013 | 07:14 AM
  #8  
jRoofgunner's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 116
From: Harris, MO.
Now you listen to me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! And this is from experience and the kind you do not want to have happen to you. If you have a condensation problem in that area you need to inspect your wiring in any outlets or electrical connectings you have. I'm still finishing up a fire rebuild that was the result of corroded wiring. All it takes to destroy a pristine 1970 442 is blown-in cellulose insulation, condensation. Also this can effect electrics on the car. That insulation has acidic borate as a fire retardent. It combines with the moisture , corrodes the wires, the fire retardant breaks down, so when the day comes the insulation heats up and burns and poof goes the olds and everything else. But even without the insulation you can still get corroded wires.
Old Feb 10, 2013 | 08:45 AM
  #9  
navvet's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 714
From: Big Lake,MN..Spent most of my life in Boston
If you have a ceiling fan keep it on. If not, get a cheap floor fan. Air circulation is key. I manage many commercial properties with underground garages. We had a moisture issue in each one. We installed fans and the problem went away. A small floor fan running all day will cost you about .90 cents to a dollar a day. Also if you get a windy sunny day open the doors it will help. PS: jRoofgunner is correct! I had corrosion on fire alarm pulls and when they were tested they did not work...the rust inside was as if it had been in salt water for a year!!!
Old Feb 10, 2013 | 09:12 AM
  #10  
archeryshooter's Avatar
Thread Starter
Tony
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 450
From: wisconsin
Thanks guys I do have heavy vinyl mats on the floor but the walls are cement also I going to try Styrofoam on the walls that may help too. I do have two windows in there also but no power for fans its not all the time we were having some nasty humid weather with fast temp changes not normal
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