ah7910

Hello,
Reading a lot in here didn't see anything about Wrapping vs/ Painting?


Assuming you have a solid Body Work Done Car to work with Any thoughts?


Im considering Paint or Wrap my 70 442.
Just don't have extra $$ to go all out


Plan on it being a driver but Needs one of the 2.


Est quotes already, Prep Paint jambs and Smooth body, Prime and remove Emblems etc for Wrapping or paint at about $1k


And $1800 for Solid color or metallic Wrap ( I have a Black vinyl Top so that knock a few Hundred off the average
or $3k++ for Brushed metallic carbon fiber stuff I'm not interested in.


so $2800-$3k to be done wrapped.
Or I'd guess much more like $4-$8k for paint.


It's Driven Weekly and no Winter snow and Rarely Rain when can help it
Not going to shows just driving and enjoying...




Anyone had experience with Wraps
Whether Done all the way and Or just the Quality prep work to go into it?




Thanks forum

oldstata

A buddy at work wrapped his civic with the carbon fiber stuff ( whole car ) took him about four hrs. Looks okay but you can see some if the dings and what nots from his body work not being done. He did it him self cost him 120 bucks and if he doesn't like it he can remove it after awhile. Paint this is a tuff one you can get cheap paint or expressive paint. I am currently into my build 400 plus hrs for a bare metal body work/ paint job and friends have helped I am into it under 3k bottom line it's your car but wrap can look good but it doesn't last like paint

68_convert

At the hot rod drag week was a 69 camero that was wrapped to look rusted out. It looked good but you could see the seams if you looked close. On a side note have you ever seen what happens after 5 yrs in the sun? Not pretty and needs to be done again. Of course paint can get scratched and dinged but could be good forever with the correct care.

Redog

It's a tough call really.

I had my Delta repainted for $2000, plus $450 for the soda blasting.

There was a lot of body work involved so I did get a deal. Car looks like it has a $5000 paint job now.

The Alero will be repainted by the same guy, but not for a while. That one shouldn't cost in the $2000 range, total.

Bottom line, Paint can scratch, vinyl can tear. Just remember in this case, vinyl is not final

Texas442

Another option very cheep but won't last long is plasti dip. Here is a Cutlass example:

Vandy

X2 on dipping it. Iirc the site is dipmycar.com. they have a lot of colors, full kits etc. It's pretty easy to do. They make a matte blue that's pretty sweet

ah7910

I'll see what they say next week.


It does have slight lift where the side 442 stripes are and I don't wan a wrap over weird line.


Given good care I don't see why a wrap won't last 8-10+ years. Not outside in the sun for more than 8 hrs 2-days a week.


I like the idea of a Perfect Metallic Gray finish for $1800 VS $5++k as well.


Painting the door jambs something close and neutral and skin smooth the body might prove to be the more expensive piece...


You can search 3m wrap Olds 442 theres pics of a Red one they did in matte nlack and added the white hood patch. the link is down though.


Thanks for the coms

ah7910

This is more what the wife would like to see on it!. Is it pretty same process to plastidip spray vs paint? I have someone that will spray after Prep for about $1k... extra
I wunder if its not as good as a wrap or equal to it? I'd imagine 3-5Yrs AT best vs 8-10?

dc2x4drvr

I've seen a car after the wrap was removed, it had a lot of scratches in the paint from the razor blades used to trim the wrap.

steve walker

hi ..I feel doing the rap would be bad on a 70 442 .. dude if its a 442 it should be painted what if any water gets trapped like around windows etc..you prob wont see it till too late ...but that's just my opinion and if I had listened to everybody.. then I would of never put a 4 point buck rack on the front of my 69 bonni in the late 80s.......

ah7910

Thanks Didn't think about the Razors I'll ask them about that, One marketing point is they say even on new cars you can change the color to what you like and NOT harm the paint below, Razor cuts all over the edges is Harming it to me!


She's a 442 344xxxxx vin and all few pics in my 'profile'


Open to any feedback
Thanks again

68_convert

I went thru a similar delima with my last classic... after being quoted $7000 for a non-show quality paint job I decided to do it myself. Although I am a mechanic. (ASE master medium heavy truck/auto) I am not and I repeat not a painter. After some study on the matter and the realization that no matter how much I screwed up each coat could be sanded and fixed I decided to do it myself. $800 air compressor. A couple of medium priced guns and time I did an acceptable job. I figured for $7000 I could paint it several times and still come out cheaper. Of course I had many many hours of labor in it. Just an option..

hullinger

Over on StationWagonForums.com there is discussions on using a wrap to simulate the woodgraining. Also, there is a tread where a fella took a pretty weathered and sun baked 1956 Chevy Townsman and wrapped it using original colors and scheme. Came out pretty well, especially from a few feet away. Now up close you can see the sheen is about what you might get from a Maaco paint job, but really, it's a nice alternative to spending a bunch of moolah. Plus, it's easy to change to another color and scheme.

Chris



http://www.stationwagonforums.com/fo...=1956+townsman

ah7910

wow that looks great for a wrap.
Above I think is what I am Most concerned about.


Razor's edging it and cutting the paint/primer, thus leaving small spots of bare metal open to the elements.'Moisture" and In the worst spots corners of the trim where it's hardest to watch and maintain.


In 2-3 weeks i'll bring it into the wrap Shot and let you all know what they say about Razor blade scratches.


Thanks Forum

hilbily

I would paint, It's tougher. I'm in the stock car business and we have our race cars wrapped. We wrap because of the graphics. It's lighter than paint, it seems like 10-12 lbs lighter. The body work has to be smooth and some sort of sealer on it. It is soft. I've had my knife pocket clip tear a hole in it , I don't know what time would Do to it. If you have a slight edge coming up they tend to collect water and dirt then your screwed. You can use a heat gun and propane touch to get it to stick around compound curves then with the sun and cold the vinyl has a memory of sorts and tends to want to go back to being flat. If I had a 1970 442 I would paint.

Mr Nick

One thing to keep in mind about Plati-Dip... it's not smooth. It has a bit of texture to it and is rubber based and not slippery like paint.

Not persuading you either way, just making a comment.

ah7910

thanks all.
Glad I came here I started leaning more wrap, now more paint... do to the above facts
now the question is as usual what color.
Its Azure blue now ( Not our ( Wife and I) Favorite. but the truck gaps jambs are all the right color.
I believe it was Bamboo with Black vinyl top ( top done and ready)


Medium Dark gray or a medium dark turquois are our other 2 Most preferred colors atm.


Regardless of Color. One Question comes to mind.


Can the door jambs be a Different color and Not look reduiculious?
Like Black or dark grey. I'd like a neutral color, Interior is Black, Chrome trim is close enough to a great..?


Any pics of Different jambs color vs exterior or ideas would be awesome.


...........you veteran forum folks, don't hesitate to tell me if that Q should be in a different section/post of the forum.......
Thanks again

Mr Nick

While I can't recall seeing anything like this at a car show... I would think a black interior, black jams, and then a clean paint line to your exterior color would look fine.

But unless your car is already black and you're trying to save money by not painting the jams, what is the point if different color door jams?

I assume the car and jams are currently azure blue? And you would like to paint the car medium dark gray or medium dark turquoise, why wouldn't you paint the jams to match the new body color instead of black or something neutral?

A black interior, azure blue jams, and a different body color would not look good.

ah7910

Thanks Just curious of the input. Will be a matter of Cost of the Better paint for the Outside is 2x the cost of paint for the jambs I figure A similar and cheaper paint there wouldn't hurt to consider.


possibly painting the Jambs trunk etc all in first leaving the exterior alone as that's better than the jambs saving $ for a season then doing the exterior.


Basically in '08 someone only did the Outside so the jambs are showing some funk


Thanks forum

jfb

I am in the trade of body and paint work and the prep done properly takes time,re---l time for a great job. I like the wrap idea but what about exact color matches to other panels and those pain in the a-- air bubbles which comes with most decals. i have seen other guys do there own work properly and the end results with buffing has been decent. I for this option would say really take your time and get to a final taping point and go to maaco for a supreme job around a grand on sale. paint is not cheap or the other products you do not want to screw up in this area it is costly. maaco has a end of summer sale around late august just perfect for a summer project. plan and shop now until spring for everything and look for sales and swap meets.

ah7910

does maaco do prep work? I have a rear fender w a ding or something and a couple other small spots getting a touch up next week, 'prepped' and quick paint blended in to close match whats there now.




The biggest thing is time and what I can do to cut down on paying someone else is worth it.


How the heck do you get the 442 tags of the front fender ?


Thanks again all

ah7910

Rather than start a new Thread, I'd thought I'd ask here.


How do you remove the 442 emblems from the Front Quarters?
Without Shearing them or Removing the fender?


How do your remove the 442 from the trunk lid


The trunk lid is the only one listed in the 1970 fishers body manual and shows as a Bayonete type push pin so its not glued on but there's no way there are access points for nuts to be removed?


The pic look like all those I've seen with nuts on the back of them though?


Thanks