Debha

Hi, we're new here to this forum.

We are in the process of looking for a '68 or 69' Cutlass convertible, but can't decide between the years because of the tail lights. Is one more desirable than the other? Also, if we buy one and decide we really like the other's tail lights better, is it possible to change out the tail lights to the ones we like? I imagine a change of the bumper would be called for as well as rear quarter panels, is that right?

Thanks so much and I look forward to reading a great deal here -- I'm so excited!

Deb

dnmfranco

69s tend to go for more particularly the 442 converts
it can be done but rear quarters and lower trunk area would have to be modified to some extent to accommodate the difference for the tail light housings.
not just the bumpers(also due to reverse lights) but trunk as well would need to be changed pending year of choice

So in essence I would suggest to pick your favorite tail lights

allyolds68

It's easier to switch the front end than the tail lights. The nice thing about 69's is you can put a 70 OAI hood on it with minor modifications and it looks great.

Of course I'd never buy a 69.........

boese1978

I thought this was joke I guess........68 is the way to go!

Debha

Thanks to everyone for responding.

After I posted that, I realized the trunk lid would also have to be changed out. One other thing, are parts easily accessible for either the '68 or '69; wondering if someone would hit us or something, could we easily find parts to do the repairs? Is someone repopping hoods/trunk lids/etc?

Thanks again.

Deb

allyolds68

You're the first person I've ever seen that is making a decision on buying a classic car based on wondering if parts are available should you get hit.

Most people are concerned about whether parts are available should (or if) a restoration would be required.


To further answer your question. For 68 and 69 fenders are recently available, bumpers are available, trunk lids are listed on a few websites but I don't think they are actually producing them yet. Rear 1/4 repair skins and front fender repair pieces are available. Inner and outer wheel houses for a hardtop are available. Rocker panels are available though they are rarely needed. Pretty much the only thing that isn't reproduced are doors or door skins. This only pertains to sheet metal. There are numerous emblems, etc available.


Most of what you're looking for will be here:


http://www.fusick.com/catfile/Catalog%2048C.pdf


There are many other vendors as well

dnmfranco

Always thought those hoods looked better on 69's then the 70's

Debha

alllyolds68,

I can see what you mean about using this criteria to make a decision about buying, but that's not really what's happening. Also, this "old car" purchase is a little different for us. I'll begin by saying that we have, until this hopefully upcoming purchase, always purchased old vehicles which were in no way drivers -- all needing new floor pans, etc -- all have been frame-off restos. We have done a '36 Ford Fordoor Sedan; we are currently working on a '50 GMC five-window, first series truck; and a '47 Ford convert. -- both currently at the paint shop but will be some time before they'll actually get onto the road. Since all of the old vehicles we have done have been frame-off restos, they have taken or are taking years to complete.

The difference with the '68 or '69 Olds Cutlass Supreme convert. which I'd like to buy is that I want a driver from the get go -- none of this waiting years to get the wheels rolling. We've been without an old car driver for two years now (sold our '36 Ford two years ago thinking our other two would be completed by now), and I'm tired of waiting and missing out. So, since I'm the one who wants a '68 or '69 Cutlass S convert. driver, if there are any issues with it, I don't want to be in a bad position with my DH about repairs and lack of parts. I want to have all of my "ducks in a row" before the purchase.

Thanks for the link and for all the info on what's available -- hoping we won't need any new parts, but you just never know. I don't know about your area of the country, but we've been noticing the last few years around here that drivers are becoming worse at driving; every time we go out there is at least one person running a red light and some way, way late! I now try to look both ways before going thru an intersection to try to make certain. My DH was T-boned with a truck we had only had not quite a year about ten years ago and that wasn't fun. The driver ran the red light after the light turned green for my DH's way and two drivers ahead of him had gone thru!!

Thanks again.

Deb

joe_padavano

Buying an old car that is done and runs?

What a concept!

There is far less repro sheetmetal available for Cutlii than for comparable Chevelles, and less for the 68-69 cars than for the 70-72 cars. Swapping taillights is not something you want to do. Buy the car you want initially. Expect to pay about $15K and up for a nice driver that's done. Also expect to find half-assed rust repair in most of the cars that have been repainted, so look VERY CAREFULLY before buying.

Good luck.

Debha

Thanks Joe.

I've been doing a lot of soul searching, and I'm coming to the conclusion I could live with either '68 or '69 tail lights. I really like the body style of the '68-'69 better than the '70-'72's. I also like bling, so I love the chrome strip that follows the shape on top of the sides.

From what I've been finding, you are right-on with that estimate of price, and even with that, some have had more done on them than others. I'm asking a lot of questions from owners and trying to stay away from bondo queens.

Thanks again.

Deb

Octania

buy the CAR that has the tail lights you like
When I first saw the '68's I was unimpressed. Now I like it.

Change FRONT ENDS to suit if need be. Much easier than redoing the aft end.
I too would prefer a '69 tail light and '68 front end.

hookem horns

I'm biased to '69 either coming or going, but do like that '68 front. Driver quality Cutlass S convertibles (no such thing as a Supreme convertible in those years) are fairly common and much more affordable than a 442. Buying the best complete car your budget allows is nearly always cheaper than buying one needing work (esp body work), which suits your drive it now idea and should let you avoid replacement panels unless disaster strikes. Let us know what you find and keep an eye on the classifieds here.