1976 Delta 455 -> 1971 Cutlass

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Old Nov 17, 2015 | 09:35 AM
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sand442man's Avatar
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1976 Delta 455 -> 1971 Cutlass

I got a line on a 76 Delta 88 455 auto. Complete driving car. I need a drive line for my 71 Supreme. Other than the crappy hp for those years anything I should be worried about in this swap? Will the driveshaft from the delta work in my Cutlass?

thx
Old Nov 17, 2015 | 09:40 AM
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Big Cars typically have the long tail trans. Whilst you have it apart, you can convert the trans to short shaft. You may have to remove every part/ assembly in the trans to get to the back- just have your local trans guy do it if this is intimidating.

No, the driveshafts will not be super interchangeable. Have your local driveline guys make you up a driveshaft. Not too pricey, and brand new.

You will find the myth that headers do not fit a "supreme". It is only a Myth. Just call your car a Cutlass....

Use a compatible pulleys/ Water Pump set- either the car's or the engine's - do not start mix-n-unmatch.
Old Nov 17, 2015 | 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Octania

You will find the myth that headers do not fit a "supreme". It is only a Myth. Just call your car a Cutlass....

Use a compatible pulleys/ Water Pump set- either the car's or the engine's - do not start mix-n-unmatch.
Thanks, so this Delta has stainless steel headers on it. Do you think they would fit my Cutlass?

Right now my Cutlass has no driveline in it at all, bought it as a rolling shell, so I would be using all the pulleys motor mounts etc from the Delta.
Old Nov 18, 2015 | 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by sand442man
Thanks, so this Delta has stainless steel headers on it. Do you think they would fit my Cutlass?

Right now my Cutlass has no driveline in it at all, bought it as a rolling shell, so I would be using all the pulleys motor mounts etc from the Delta.
Header manufacturers typically list the same part numbers for the 71-76 full size cars as they do for the 68-72 A-body cars, so yes the headers should work. Be aware of the usual Olds A-body header problems, namely the likely need to relocate the combo valve/brake distribution block and the possible interference with the backdrive linkage to the trans.

Use the rubber motor mounts for your Cutlass. If the Cutlass originally came with a 350 motor, get Anchor P/N 2261. If the Cutlass originally came with a 455, get P/N 2328.

Keep the water pump, pulleys, and accessory brackets together as a matched set to avoid pulley alignment issues. Pay attention to the two spacers between the PS pump bracket and the block. You'll need a larger radiator in the Cutlass.

Chris has already mentioned the long tailshaft on the TH400 from a full size. That, plus the 10" difference in wheelbase should tell you that the driveshaft won't be close. You can convert a long-tail into a short-tail, but by the time you purchase the new output shaft and tailhousing, it might be less expensive to just get a different trans. Also be aware that the trans crossmember must be relocated for the TH400. The frame is already drilled for this, but because the e-brake cables hang off the crossmember, the front and intermediate cables need to be changed to the correct ones for a TH400 application. RockAuto lists these. Pay attention to the wheelbase, as the intermediate cables vary both due to trans and wheelbase differences.
Old Nov 20, 2015 | 04:34 PM
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Thanks guys, this helps a ton.
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