Rear main seal
It's gotta come down a little, but it doesn't have to come out.
By the time you get the motor jacked up, transmission disconnected, oil pan off, etc., all while lying on your back, you'll see that it's nearly as easy to pull the motor and do it that way.
They make a special tool for pulling out the rope seals, but I've had success just grabbing at it with needlenose pliers until it slides out.
- Eric
By the time you get the motor jacked up, transmission disconnected, oil pan off, etc., all while lying on your back, you'll see that it's nearly as easy to pull the motor and do it that way.
They make a special tool for pulling out the rope seals, but I've had success just grabbing at it with needlenose pliers until it slides out.
- Eric
Don't replace it per say. Add more packing material. Usually if one leaks it is because it wasn't packed tight enought to begin with.
Or pull it out and rotate a neoprene seal in. That would be easiest and most trustworthy.
Either way you do not need to remove any more than the rear cap. Just be patient and work smartly.
Or pull it out and rotate a neoprene seal in. That would be easiest and most trustworthy.
Either way you do not need to remove any more than the rear cap. Just be patient and work smartly.
Never heard of a neoprene seal?!?
They've been used in most engines since the 1960s, and have been used in all engines for at least the past 20-30 years.
Where do these people you've talked to live? North Korea?
- Eric
They've been used in most engines since the 1960s, and have been used in all engines for at least the past 20-30 years.
Where do these people you've talked to live? North Korea?
- Eric
Better yet, my company Enginetech offers a 460 Ford offset seal where the lip is moved to a different part of the crank surface - helping to control weeping if the sealing journal has developed a wear groove.
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