Ok so here we go, This is for a 70 455.

~Is there any sort of torque pattern to go by other than first to last for main caps.

~I have new main bearings and new ARP Main bolts torqued to their recommend 100ft pounds rather then 120

~How freely is the crank. suppose to spin after being torqued down.
-It is taking me 40-45ft pounds to turn it in ether direction. I'm thinking this is a problem. I took it all apart and clean everything twice and seems to have made no difference.

 

Do you have a rear seal in it? If so what is it, rope or neoprene?

 

If there isn't a specified order to tighten the caps in, from the center out, done in 2-3 steps of torque would probably be a better method. It does sound like the crank is tight. Try loosening each cap individually to see if it turns more freely. If it does, look closely at that cap, bearing and crank journal.

Was the crank cut or is it standard? When it was disassembled were the caps marked to be put back in the exact same position? What bearing clearance does it have? Why are the bearings being replaced, was it due to a problem with one or is it in the course of a rebuild? Is it the crank only that is tight or are the pistons and rods in also?

Not trying to ask a lot of questions just trying to help figure it out. Good luck and please let us know what you find.

 

-Rear seal is in (rope)

-Crank Is standard
-Caps marked and put back in exact order
-This is a rebuild
-Pistons are not put in yet due to the nature of this problem
-I have not check clearance, but its looking like I should.

Note: Before I took it all apart the first time the rear cap was causing most of the resistance

 

Checked again its the rear cap, it feels like its getting held up on the rear seal when it gets torqued down and pressed up against it I can see the grooves have torn at it. Maybe I don't have it packed enough or Is this normal?

 

what about using one of the 2 piece standard style main seals that Mondello carries?

 

arint those for crankshafts with polished out grooves?


Problem was the rope seal, I ripe them out torqued everything down spins so nice, Now how can I avoid doing this again is the question

 

Use the Ford 460 neoprene rear seal.
No you don't have to polish the grooves out of it. It actually rides on a different part of the surface.

Just an FYI, even just changing bolts can alter the main bearing housing bores. I never recommend doing that without checking them.

 

I'm using seal from 292 Ford in my 71 - 350, so far so good

 

I was just looking for a rear seal for my 71 350. PMDaddy, is the Ford 292 the way to go? I just assumed there was a neoprene/updated alternative to the rope.
Sorry, don't mean to hijack the thread.

 

member oddball told me about it and my builder said it fit great - felpro BS-6141

 

go ahead and ck/verify the bearing clearance while you are in there.
At least a quick plastigage check.