I am trying to figure out what I do next, I got my 64 f-85 back from getting a new front ( front end sets to high now ) by 3". Has anyone cut a coil out of their springs ? how much did it drop ? did it ride bad after ?
Also had to put a new fuel tank / sending unit / fuel filter. Car runs better but not great, old tank was full of junk. should I replace the fuel pump ? or have the carb rebuilt ? One more thing fuel gauge doesn't show correct level of gas in tank is there a trick to getting it right ? Thanks


65 425 engine 4bbl Edelbrock carb "1406" 2 spd trans

 

Are you sure the shop didn't torque your front suspension while it was still up on the hoist? That will screw the geometry big time. Other possibility is they may have put the wrong springs in? DON'T start by cutting springs! Find out what the problem is first.

re: running problems? No I wouldn't replace the pump. If the carb is getting fuel and the float bowl is full the pump is doing it's job. Yes I would look at checking the carb settings before I rebuilt it. I'd consider just replacing the carb with a 750 CFM Performer 1411
http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/1411/10002/-1 . The 1406 you have on their is 600 CFM and is designed for small block applications.

re: fuel gage. What's the problem with the gage? Could be one of 2 things. 1. Faulty new sender. 2. Faulty gage. If the gage was working fine before you replaced the tank I'd suggest faulty new sender. The float may be sticking. There's no quick fix to that. It would involve draining the tank, dropping it out and pulling the sender for replacement. Who did you get the sender from?

 

Though I agree that torquing the fasteners while on the lift can upset the riding height, I do not think it could make the car ride three inches high.

Whoever you just "got your car back" from, it needs to go back to them so they can install the correct springs. They screwed up.

Allan is correct - check the function of the fuel pump before blindly replacing it.

As for solving the problem of the car running "not great," there are about a thousand things that can make a car run "not great" - is there any chance you could be just a tiny bit more specific?

On the subject of the tank sender, did it work before?
If so, then there's a good chance you replaced a good original sender with a bad new one.
Other possibilities include 1. and 2., as above, as well as 3. bad connection in the wire to the fuel sender, or bad ground, introducing resistance that shouldn't be there.

See troubleshooting advice here and here.

Good luck!

- Eric

ps: Allan, I see you've beaten out Joe P for the Top Poster title. Congratulations.
Let's hope he doesn't get mad...

 

Thanks for info, the best way to describe the performance issue is when I hit it hard it hesitates, launches, coughs, acts like it wants to go. when it hits about 2800-3000 then it goes hard but I don't feel the secondaries open up.

Here is picture of the car before the front end rebuild, what I was hoping for & after.

 

pictures

 

Ok, with the rebuild, it doesn't look 3" too high. What I suggest you do is measure the ride height at the specified body points as noted in the CSM and see if in fact it is too high or meets factory specs. From what you've posted with the pics, I think what you want is a lowered version. Don't start cutting springs - it almost never works out right because of the way the coils are spaced. Use either a lowering kit, or drop axles. Don't know how it will affect the cars steering geometry.

 

I bet you told them it has a big block in the car. So they being of a chebby mind they put big block HD springs in. You should say just use std springs or I would use Eibach lowering spring #3855-140 and you should be back like you like it.
IMO

Gene

 

I agree with the above: That picture does not show a car riding 3" too high. It looks like a small block car on big block springs.
There's a chance it may settle a bit over the next month or so, and if the bushings were tightened on the lift, that would contribute to this.

As for the engine - could be a lot of things.
First thing to do would be to do a full tune-up to be sure everything is set correctly, make sure your points, condenser, cap, rotor, wires, and spark plugs are good, and make sure your fuel filter(s) is/are not clogged. Be sure points, timing, and carb are set right.

Once all that's done, yes, your symptoms could be due to the carb needing a rebuild, but they could also be signs of a bad coil, bad wires, dirty points, or a lot of other things.

- Eric

 

Two things to consider. First, the suspension bolts MUST be torqued with the weight of the car on the springs, as noted above. Failure to do this can result in a ride height that is 1-2" higher than normal. Second, be sure the upper end of the springs are properly seated around the pilots in the upper spring pockets. This is a totally blind installation and it's very easy for the springs to get out of position, which will also result in a higher than normal ride height.

If you still need to cut the springs, I've done this several times. On a Cutlass, one full coil drops the front end 1-2" depending on the spring rate. Cutting a spring also increases the effective spring rate. I've cut springs using a cutoff wheel and a torch. If you use a torch, submerge the spring in a bucket of water so that the water level is just below the cut line. This prevents the torch from damaging the heat treat of the spring.

 

Thanks for all the good advice. Looks like like I have a little work ahead off me. I'm starting with the plug wires and moving on from there. As far as the springs go I think they did put Big Block springs in. I talked with a gentleman that has a 425 in a 64 Cutlass and did the same thing. He cut 1 coil out to lower it and was very happy with the result. He said it rides great so I might give it a try.

 

He has a BBO 425 in the car Gene. I don't blame the shop for putting in the HD springs if they had nothing else to go on. This is one of those things that you need to discuss with the shop beforehand. If the intent was to have the front end ride lower, they could have done that with different springs.

Sorry Bamfer, did you discuss this with them and show them the pic of what you were hoping to achieve?

 

Yes I did, showed them the pictures I posted and told them about the 2" drop springs I Googled and wish ones I thought were the best deal. I think they were afraid it would set to low with the BB in it. And ordered the standard springs, I read somewhere the weight difference is only about 50 pds. Anyway I will try the 1 coil cut the springs method and see what the result is. I don't think I can get the shop that did the work redo them, ( long store ) it's all good though. On another note, I called Edelbrock and told them of the performance issues I'm having and they said the carb ( 1406 600 cfm ) is to small for my engine. They said that carb is jetted lean to begin with and what I need is the 750 cfm carb. So what do you guys think and if I get a new carb do I go with mechanical secondary's or vacuum ?

 

If that's the case, I'd say take it back and make them do it over again since it wasn't what you explained and paid for in the first place. Why do extra labor yourself when you don't have to?