455 build up help
455 build up help
Im building my first engine and im trying to achieve around 5-600hp.
I want to pretty much build a strong street car. I plan on using these general componets.
Cp bullet series pistons
dick miller billet connecting rods
edlebrock aluminium heads
edlebrock intake not sure which one
stock crankshaft
comp cam k42-224-4
harland sharp roller rockers
what do you guys think ? Once again this is a real general list i know alot more is needed
I want to pretty much build a strong street car. I plan on using these general componets.
Cp bullet series pistons
dick miller billet connecting rods
edlebrock aluminium heads
edlebrock intake not sure which one
stock crankshaft
comp cam k42-224-4
harland sharp roller rockers
what do you guys think ? Once again this is a real general list i know alot more is needed
By the time all is said and done, it'll cost more to do a 460 build with your stock crank being reground.
To go with a bigger cam won't cost much more than the one you have in mind either!
Just remember, a 'big' cam in a stroker motor is smaller than you're thinking, as you're
feeding more inches!
Much easier to make big power from bigger cubic inches!!
There should be a few stroker motor builds in the 'search' section, including $$$ spent!
To go with a bigger cam won't cost much more than the one you have in mind either!
Just remember, a 'big' cam in a stroker motor is smaller than you're thinking, as you're
feeding more inches!
Much easier to make big power from bigger cubic inches!!
There should be a few stroker motor builds in the 'search' section, including $$$ spent!
If i took my stock crankshaft added high perfromance pistons , rods , heads ,etc would i get good power that way? Like i said before im new to engine building so sorry for lame questions. Not to confident in putting right parts combo together but i can handle putting it all together.
That's what we're talking about - the stroker kit is all matched parts, and I believe already balanced!
Not to mention, it's a forged assembly, vs a cast, stock, used crank, that's about 30-40% weaker!
I'd be calling it free insurance!
Main thing with Olds is finding a reputable machine shop!
State your exact location - maybe someone around you know's where the best place is around you!
Not to mention, it's a forged assembly, vs a cast, stock, used crank, that's about 30-40% weaker!
I'd be calling it free insurance!
Main thing with Olds is finding a reputable machine shop!
State your exact location - maybe someone around you know's where the best place is around you!
Last edited by Rickman48; Apr 14, 2012 at 12:11 PM.
BTR performance at www.highperformanceolds.com he has a few 496 builds on there.
That's what we're talking about - the stroker kit is all matched parts, and I believe already balanced!
Not to mention, it's a forged assembly, vs a cast, stock, used crank, that's about 30-40% weaker!
I'd be calling it free insurance!
Main thing with Olds is finding a reputable machine shop!
State your exact location - maybe someone around you know's where the best place is around you!
Not to mention, it's a forged assembly, vs a cast, stock, used crank, that's about 30-40% weaker!
I'd be calling it free insurance!
Main thing with Olds is finding a reputable machine shop!
State your exact location - maybe someone around you know's where the best place is around you!
But as mentioned it'll be a lot easier to get into the mid 500's with a stroker kit, hyd roller and assorted other pieces. Most will be available right off the shelf.
You are correct...A stroker kit will have a longer stroke than it originally had in stock form...The point that some of the other guys made is important in respect to putting all of your parts together ....that match...work together well...Now if you do not want to go with a stroker kit,,,,you certainly can,but bear in mind as far as performance is concerned and longevity of your build..You will be more pleased with the performance with your engine if you match gear ratio,cam,compression,carb,heads,intake,exhaust for what you intend to do with it....Don't know how deep your pockets are,but if you want to get 600 plus hp.out of your engine,you will have to reach down fairly deep..Of course you could use nitrous....You will need to decide whether or not you are willing to get off the hip for aviation and or racing fuel to feed your Olds....Just food for thought....Don
Is a stroker kit that different than a kit that's just for my stock crankshaft ? I plan on having all matched parts .I plan on buying all proven products . Like I listed in the 1st post I got those parts from a dick miller build only things that are different are the pistons that were speed pro instead of the cp pistons I want. And the cam was a dick miler cam but I found the comp cam with same specs.
I know you're in the fact finding phase but by your own admission this is your first build. I'm not sure this is a good first project. Things need to be clearenced etc. and you'll have a bunch of money in this in order to do it right. You might want to find a reputable shop/engine builder to do this for you.
Jmo.
If you already have the engine, I would suggest you find out if you have one of the nodular iron cranks. For me, at least, this would be a large factor in deciding whether to go with a stroker or not. (Nodular is reputed to be almost as good as forged.) Secondly, if you are planning on turning the engine at high rpm's, you will need to think about beefing up the main bearings. Also, you will need to decide if the car is to be used primarily for street or race so you can set main bearing clearances appropriately. Olds engines I have been familiar with in the past have always had trouble with the mains.
Bill Travoto has published a performance book on " How to Build Max-Performance Oldsmobile V-8s " and if you haven't already gotten one, I would suggest you do. There is a lot of good information in there that may help you with some to the questions you are having.
Bill Travoto has published a performance book on " How to Build Max-Performance Oldsmobile V-8s " and if you haven't already gotten one, I would suggest you do. There is a lot of good information in there that may help you with some to the questions you are having.
That is cool that you are thinking of a stroker kit. It would be in your best interest to purchase a balanced reciplicating assembly. Also, the camshaft that you have selected is very small for what you are building. If you are going with a 496 cu. The I would use something in the 112 or 113 lca with duration in the 240 range. You can choose any cam company to grind you a camshaft. You can also upgrade your cam choice to a hydraulic roller. However, you will have to run special push rods and a bronze distributor gear depending on the brand of camshaft you purchase. Also, this would be an expensive build.
@bobus8 i do have the n crankshaft and i plan on beefing up everything that needs to be. I understand about having proper clearances on bearings etc.i think the other posts had me thinking why do i have to stroke engine if i already have the cu in. And i do plan on buying the bill travoto book . Its my first car engine but im not a white collar guy. Im an engineer so i work on chillers , boilers , diesel generators hvac/r . So i do have the confidence with proper literature and help i can build my 455
The reason I suggested a stroker kit were twofold!
1] to achieve the desired 500-600 HP
2] to actually save some money
You mention the block is already .030 over.
Was it decked? Olds blocks are notoriously tall, and can benefit greatly by this procedure, reducing the deck height increases compression the correct way, and 'squares the block' to the crankshaft.
Was the crankshaft alignment checked? Necessary for square bores.
A stroker kit will give you crank, bearings, rods, pistons, pins and rings, pre-balanced, for your block.
To buy those parts individually, you'll spend more money, and still have to find someone to grind the crank, and balance the assembly!
Cubic inches = more power! PERIOD!!
We're only trying to steer you towards being satisfied with your build, as none of us have anything to gain, either way!
Good luck, which ever way you go!!
And when all is said and done, the 'N' crank is worth some money!
1] to achieve the desired 500-600 HP
2] to actually save some money
You mention the block is already .030 over.
Was it decked? Olds blocks are notoriously tall, and can benefit greatly by this procedure, reducing the deck height increases compression the correct way, and 'squares the block' to the crankshaft.
Was the crankshaft alignment checked? Necessary for square bores.
A stroker kit will give you crank, bearings, rods, pistons, pins and rings, pre-balanced, for your block.
To buy those parts individually, you'll spend more money, and still have to find someone to grind the crank, and balance the assembly!
Cubic inches = more power! PERIOD!!
We're only trying to steer you towards being satisfied with your build, as none of us have anything to gain, either way!
Good luck, which ever way you go!!
And when all is said and done, the 'N' crank is worth some money!
Last edited by Rickman48; Apr 15, 2012 at 10:35 AM.
@RICKMAN I appreciate all your help , im not disagreeing with anything your saying.
block is going to machine shop next week to tanked , honed and decked . im taking crankshaft in also for whatever it needs.
block is going to machine shop next week to tanked , honed and decked . im taking crankshaft in also for whatever it needs.
They'll need to clearance the block for the h beam rods. Plus make sure they square it first, then do the hone with a torque plate. If its .030 now you may be able to get a .040 over piston instead of going right to a .060.
The Eagle stroker kit I have, the crank needed all most 400 grams taken out to get it to balance.
You can get to your goal with the crank and block you have. Now you will need "H" beam rods and light weight pistons. You would be better off with the 2.2 rod journal "H" beam rod and custom pistons. The crank will need to be machine for the rods.
Gene
You can get to your goal with the crank and block you have. Now you will need "H" beam rods and light weight pistons. You would be better off with the 2.2 rod journal "H" beam rod and custom pistons. The crank will need to be machine for the rods.
Gene
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