Advice and help would be appreciated for upcoming rebuild in 70 Cutlass 4-dr.
Info first, then the questions-
Rebuild kit from Summit with forged 9.5 flat tops, std oil pump.
Block prep will include 0-decking, crank is ground 10/10.
F heads midly ported (app. 10% inc. in flow), dual v.springs.
Performer intake, 750d/p.
Stock exh. manifolds..2.5" split with X-over and hi-flow mufflers.
Replacing 2.56 rear with 3.42.
Rear tyres: 295/50/15
Stock t.c.

Recommendations for cam please..don't want to go over .500 lift, but wouldn't mind a 'lope' at idle..

Is it really worth the extra $'s to fit larger valves.

Getting a little spooked reading about oil press. issues with these engines..drilling here, plugging that, fit oil restrictors, big pans..etc.
This is going to be street driven and cruised, but hopefully can surprise some rice-burners occasionally at stop lights, without being pushed EVER beyond 5000rpm.

So, when ordering the parts, I was intending to order 10/10 under c.r.'s and mains...do I need to be more specific about the sizes? Do I need to get exacting sizes from the crank grinder and order bearings accordingly...?

Is the Ford rear seal mod difficult and is it necessary? This motor appears to never have been apart and wasn't leaking oil at the rear....

There seems to be mixed opinions about re-using the valley cover/intake "roof" (don't know what is the correct name!)...or is it ok to use 'normal' intake manifold gaskets and not refit the original type..?

If I specify with Summits that I need new mtr mounts for 70 Olds Cutlass Supreme 4-dr with 455ci engine, I should receive the correct ones..right..?

Being in Australia, it is not feasible to take the old mounts to the supplier as a sample..!

Any tips on where to source door window outer chrome mouldings with window felts, as well as the chrome bodied seals that are vertically mounted between the front and rear door windows on this pillarles car?

Any useful advice and suggestions would be appreciated..

 

Big valves (actually, only the intake is larger) will help increase airflow at low cam lifts. It's a good thing.

Get a good Mellings oil pump and stock pan and you'll be fine. The restrictors that go in the feed holes between the crank and the cam are worthless and do NOT prevent oil from going to the top end. The only effective restrictors are the ones that go in the lifter feed holes (all 16 of them) and on a mild street driven motor this is not necessary.

It's a drop-in and is actually easier to install than the stock rope seal. It's also a better seal.

Don't ever reuse the stock turkey tray. I use a new one every time and have never had a problem when properly installed. This is one of those issues like which side of the roll does the toilet paper hang from.

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Dreamer! Nearly all vendors have these mounts listed incorrectly. The first question to ask: was this a factory 455 car? If so, you need the correct 1969-1972 455 mounts. Anchor Industries apparently has stopped making these and their catalog (which most vendors use) incorrectly lists the small block mounts for a 455. Supercars Unlimited is one of the few vendors selling the correct 455 mounts.

Now if your car was originally a 350 car, you need to figure our which frame mounts are in the car currently. If it has 350 frame mounts, use the 350 motor mounts (Anchor P/N 2328 or equivalent). If it was switched to the 455 frame mounts, you need to use the 455 motor mounts noted above.

 

You said it had F heads, please double check that casting letter. The 455's have F and Fa blocks but the F head was used in 1970 on the W30 only. They all have the larger intake valves and are pretty scarce castings. John

 

Also, check the head casting number above the center two exhaust ports. Given the value of real F heads, some folks will grind the lower leg off the "E" on those more common heads and turn them into "F" heads. This is relatively easy to do, but the casting numbers are very different (403686 for E heads vs. 404438 for real F castings) and not easily changed.

 

Thanx for the replies..
Heads are at the machine shop, but will check the nos.
I was wrong on the tyre sizes....295/50/15...
I will post head info soon...

 

if it was mine i would scrap the f heads and grab a set of c heads they will produce awsome power gain flow realy good and i run a meiling hv pump with stock pan and no oil restrictors cam wise i would run the lunati 318a3lun nice cam what i used to run before i got my motor built bigger its 276/286 duration advertised at .050 lift its 221/230 485 lift and provides good response and top end then if you go bigger let me know i got a awsome comp cam in mine which is the extreme energy 284 hope this helps

 

 

He lives in Australia . All holden and Ford --parts are rare

 

Advertised compression is very relative and rarely correct. To know your actual static compression ratio you will need to measure your head chamber volume, piston to deck clearance, head gasket thickness and head gasket bore diameter. You also need to know the volume of the dish of your pistons but since you say they are flat tops, that number is zero (assuming no valve reliefs). Otherwise you could end up with a compression ratio higher or lower than you expected which may be undesirable. Here is a nifty online calculator you can use to find your static compression ratio:

http://www.csgnetwork.com/compcalc.html