I have a nice 1966 Cutlass Convertable with the 330, I have always wanted a Big Block car and I see this as my chance to get it. I just got a 455 today and the seller tells me it is from a 70 442. I have researched the casting numbers and everything looks right for a 442 engine. Just what kind of Pitfalls and problems will I encounter with this engine swap. I want to gather up all the needed parts before I tear down a nice driving car. Do it all at once instead of a part here and there. Here are some of my Numbers--- 396021 F Block---402294 Z & W exhaust codes--- Behind the flexplate is the code F2 for a high Nickle Block---E Heads (if 442 they should be big valves)---404521 Intake and the numbers 0214280 on the oil tube. That's all I have for now. I hope I have not Bitten off more than I can chew. Thanks

 

This is a myth that has been disproven.

As for the rest, all of the info you need has been discussed here in the past and is available by search.

Basically, it'a bolt-in modification, but you'll want to change out that 2-speed Jetaway transmission for a TH400 (which, I believe will require a new driveshaft).

I'm sure the resident 442 experts will be able to tell you all the ways to be sure it's really a 442 motor.

Pictures would help.

- Eric

 

Its a pretty simple swap. Yes, if you go with a T400 you will need a different driveshaft and you will have to modify your ebrake hook on the transmission xmember shorter as the xmember moves to rear about 6 inches. Use all the accy's and brackets from the 455.

 

I believe earlier cars used different exhaust manifold. You'll have to research if these will work. Good luck.

 

If I'm not mistaken the TH400 will not bolt to the original cross member because it's longer than the Jetaway. There are also no holes in the frame to mount it farther back. I got around this with an aftermarket cross member to make the swap work. I'm sure others will chime in. This could have been because I have a boxed frame convertible but not sure.

http://www.crossmembers.com/shop/pro...products_id=70

You can see in the photo how the cross member is offset substantially. As far as the e-brake you will have to shorten the intermediate cable or purchase a new one.

 

Mythbusters 455 episode??

Did i miss another good one?!

--- BUSTED ---

 

You may be right on the Xmember mounting holes, he may have to fab some brackets or drill holes, as I'm not familiar with how the frame is on a convertable. The ebrake hook can be modified without buying a new cable.

 

I was hoping to get a few replies. I am a Newbie when it comes to olds and this site has been wonderful for info. Yes, I am seeking a TH400 and the info from G force crossmembers is just what I was looking for. I have a non air car and will need to find some BB brackets for the alt. and power steering. The engine I bought has the AC type brackets which I won't be using. I got to hear it run before I pulled it from a 69 442 hardtop and it ran great. Going to pull off everything and regasket and then repaint it Blue. Would love to go thru the engine with some Go Goodies but the wallet needs to thicken a bit. With the extra grunt of the 455 I should be well pleased with the stock engine over the 330s performance. One of my questions was am I going to be able to use my radiator with the BB engine? Here's some shots of my car, I will take a few of the engine and do another post. Thanks Guy's

 

The convertible frames are boxed and use welded-on tabs for crossmember attachment. Since the TH400 was not an option in the A-body for 1966, the tabs are not long enough to accommodate the relocated crossmember. You'll need to weld on new tabs.

Use the e-brake cables for a 1967 442 with TH400. These have the right lengths to work with the relocated crossmember.

You will need a shorter driveshaft and a different front yoke for the TH400. You'll need a different shifter or the Shiftworks conversion kit.

 

The engine runs strong and very smooth, It has a new HEI with Accel 300+ Ferro-spiral wires and a new starter. I got the engine for the price of these new parts. The seller was in a bind for cash and I was the first to respond to his add. I think I did well, getting a good running engine for 450 bucks. I forgot to mention the new clutch fan he bought. Anyway, I will be pulling down the engine to install new gaskets and painting it Blue for a fresh look. Now to order the G force crossmember and a new TH400 trans. I have been super pleased with a 700R4 that I got from Monster Trans. that I put in my 65 GMC and probaly order my TH400 from them. I have a new Qjet built by Sean Murphy Induction for the intake system. They sell a nice product. I think I have a good start for my engine swap

 

Uh, why? Your stock crossmember works just fine. Also, do NOT get "big block" motor mounts. Either reuse your 330 mounts or if necessary buy new replacements (Anchor # 2261).

 

I took some angle iron , welded it to the frame to mount the stock x-member in position. You should get the drive shaft from the car the engine came from and have it shorten. Or get the trans and drive shaft from the car.

Gene

 

If the engine runs well, I wouldn't pull the heads if they haven't been off before, unless you're okay with the loss of about a half a point of compression from the thicker aftermarket head gaskets.

- Eric

 

Use all the engine brackets from the 330 and paint it Bronze instead of blue.

 

Don't think I need to pull the heads off at all, the engine runs good like it is. Just going to remove the intake, oil pan , front plate and valve covers for a media blast and repaint. Do not want to remove main or rod caps at all. Thinking about replacing the oil pump while I have the pan off(a stich in time)and put everything back with a new water and fuel pump. I am not wanting a tire burning monster, just a strong, smooth running Mill with more grunt than the 330 has. Later on, I'm sure I will rebuild the entire engine, and at that time I will look into a Hop up build because there is a part of me that wants to let loose the Wolf and burn some tires. After all, I am a HOT RODDER at Heart. Are'nt we all? Thanks guy's for all the good ideas and info.

 

BRONZE it is. Good call. Let's see how many we can fool. Ha.

 

X2
I asked the same question that was asked here. I was told to use all the original 66 stuff for the swap. Including all the brackets, pulleys, ps pump, water pump, motor mounts (I bought new replacement as Joe said here), I used the exhaust manifolds without the heat riser (like a 70 442 I believe), moved the crossmember back (mine is not a convertible), different driveshaft, it all worked beautifully, I did not have a real problem. I used a switch pitch turbo 400 and the original switches which were on the 66 for the jetaway, with a manual overide switch, works perfect. I used all the original shift linkage, no problem, it doesn't cure the indicator on the dash which still says it is a 2 speed trans, but it goes in all gears just fine, neutral safety switch and backup lights work perfectly, no problem at all. I also agree with Joe P on the e brake setup, I haven't changed mine yet but I figured out what I needed to do and that is on the "to do" list. I got mine working when I did the swap about 4 years back, and figured out then that a 67 442 setup was what I needed. And, just getting it working is not good, as the adjustment is now above the crossmember and a real pain to mess with, I am definitely changing to the 67 parts.
The radiator will work as far as size and function, but my original did not keep mine as cool as I wanted. I bought a new Alumitech reproduction, biggest one available. It now runs right where the thermostat opens, as long as you are moving enough air. Mine is not moving enough air even with a factory shroud and a good fan, WHEN AT HOT IDLE. So I am adding a pusher electrig fan with adjustable controller to help me there. It doesn't overheat now but does go up to 210 sometimes, I'm hoping it will do better.
I have an Edelbrock Performer which cuts down on the carb to bottom of hood clearance. If you leave the stock intake on there it would help there quite a bit. I tried several air cleaners before I was saiisfied, and I don't have room for any nut other than the small flat one.
And yes, you certainly do have a nice 66!
Good luck

 

I'm not particularly fond of the stock drive shafts as they are sleeved with a rubber isolator. That rubber breaks down over the approx 40 some odd years and causes odd vibrations. Generally they will not hold up to abuse either. I replaced mine with a new steel drive shaft fabricated locally, cost me about $220 with u joints and balanced! I supplied the front yoke.

 

Well that motor looks familiar, glad it worked out for you Jim. Yeah its tough nowadays with this economy crunch, especially when you a construction biz owner. Since then i have found work, thank the heavens, & have located a 400 that came out of 69 442 that i will be picking up to get her what she came out with when it was built. I know its not numbers matching, but i'm ok with that, & look forward to building it up to drop in & have some fun this summer. See ya on the road sometime Jim. Erick.