Need help to locate this valve for 71 442 Valve sits at front of intake.Has three vacuum hoses at the side one on top plus electric connection on top.Also need heater hose 5/8 in from heater to heat valve.this is a molded hose?Thanks Don

 

Is yours broken? As i know they are pretty hard to find (Only i believe standard on 71-72 models) if you go on rockauto you can find all kinds of other valves.. just not this one. Hopefully someone around here will have an extra lying around for you.

-Tony

 

That's a known tough one to find.

Are you doing a full restoration?
'Cause if you're just trying to fix it up and drive it, that valve is completely unnecessary.

- Eric

 

Is that the Thermactor valve? Has a name something like that.

 

Yo, it's this one.

-Tony

 

So I may not need to have this one hooked up either? I know it's purpose is to decrease temperature at idle by circulating more fluid, and at cruising speed, but apart from that, would ported vacuum do something similar?

-Tony

 

Do a search on here for transmission controlled spark (TCS) solenoid - it is an emission control that is better left unhooked. Lots of threads on this thing.
Run disty right from manifold or ported vacuum source (your choice). I am running manifold vac.

 

I have of few of those in my parts collection. You can delete it, and use a brass plug in your intake.

 

You DO not need to have it hooked up.

Its purpose is to allow GM to set the timing all screwed up, and still have the car run and not overheat. All it does is allow the engine to run normally under extreme conditions (too hot, and top gear cruising) while having it run messed-up the rest of the time. If you don't use it, you can just set your timing to be correct for the entire operating range, and never look back.

- Eric

 

And this would be through a re-curve kit, right?

I bought a Mr. Gasket Re-curve kit to install once i get the car running (only one available up here in Montreal), but a couple guys said it'd be better to get another more reliable brand..

-Tony

 

I would have to check my Motor manuals to compare the mechanical and advance curves for the years with snd without these settings, but basically, the best thing to do is probably a careful trial an error recurve, but you can probably get close by just removing all the unneccessary plumbing and setting your timing as though your car were a 1970 model.

- Eric

 

Okay that sounds good, it's just hard to believe that i'll be able to get close with those 6 springs that there are in a re-curve kit..

Any input on that would be great! I've only got the CSM/fischer manual from 72.. all it really has on timing is this picture here in the emmissions section.

Thanks,

Tony