Hi guys I had to have my 1967, 400 olds rebuilt The guy told me that whoever put the piston in they did it with a tourch,and the egged the block I never heard of this, he is going to bore it .30 and put new pistons This engine was rebuilt in 07,5k miles on it I bought it last year,I have all the papers on it he had in done in Florida ,When the guy took off the intake to get the lifters out 10 out of 16 had no c clip on them broken,the push rods were flatten on the end ?I looked through the papers of work that was done And I found A slip for 09 new cam,and lifters? I think somebody screwed up any coments Thank's Steve

 

''they did it with a tourch,and the egged the block''............I got no idea what you are talking about..............I think some one's blowing smoke...........

 

Sounds like it wasn't properly assembled. Some one simply bolted some parts together and buttoned it up. I guess they thought they were working on some other brand of engine.

Several things should have been checked and verified. I'm guessing that did'nt happen. Sounds like the lifter preload wasn't checked nor the push rod length....among other things.

Putting pistons in with a torch...never heard of that. I hope you have lots better luck this time around.

 

What difference does that make? Fyi, they all assemble the same way, compress the rings, install the pistons and so on.
If they put the pistons in with a torch, when it was cold it wouldn't turn over. Somebody's taking you for a ride, again.

Get a second opinion.

 

Heat causes metal to expand.

In order to get tight metal pieces to fit together, you sometimes use a heat gun, a torch, or the freezer (when the wife's not home ) to adjust the temperatures of the parts so that they go together.

It would be impractical or just plain stupid to use a torch to try to make the cylinder bores bigger, because a.) as efi said, when the temperatures stabilized, the engine wouldn't turn, b.) you'd need a HELLUVA lot of heat to get the block to expand enough in a single cylinder, and c.) if you DID put all that heat into only one cylinder at a time, you'd warp or crack something.

If you used a torch on the pistons, of course, they would expand, and wouldn't fit in the bores, which would kind of defeat the purpose, no?

I have used a torch, gently, on pistons in other vehicles before, in order to expand the pistons so I could slip in the wrist pins. This is required on some motors.

My point is, efi is right - you're being BS'ed, and pretty hard.

- Eric

ps: "egged the block"? "07,5K miles"? What are you taking about?

 

I went down to talk to the guy about the pistion ,They don't heat the piston they heat the wrist pin to get it in Does that sound right?
The engine was rebuilt in 2007 and it only has 5k miles the block needed to be borded hole were not true

 

Not excactly... the proper tool is a rod heater used on the small end of the rod. Many people have used a torch to do this. The tell tale sign is blueing- discoloring of the rod. Thats what your machinist seen. This can effect the tempering or strength of the rod.

 

Agree.

A heat gun is a better tool for this. You should never use a torch on parts that are tempered or hardened, if you plan to use them again, unless you are very good at limiting the amount of heat you apply.

 

How does he know that? If the block was originally honed with torque plates then when you check it without one it will be out of round.
And to check bore alignment is no simple task, you need a main saddle and deck reference along with other devices.

Hope this guy is not steering you wrong, again.

 

Did they have the bearing caps in the right places? If they didn't mark them and mixed them up , you've got a mess on your hands.