So happy with my 455
So happy with my 455
So I've been looking for a 455 for a few weeks now and finally found one from a 1970 olds 98. The car originally had 60,000 miles on it and was completely stock from the factory.I even have the ac compressor attached. I drove the car with the engine in and it was hauling a$$ to say the least. I'm putting this in my convertible to replace the tired 350. Usually I'd throw it in but I'm taking the time to clean it up,paint it,and install a couple of performance items. I ordered and just received my headers, aluminum intake, performance camshaft,roller rockers,push rods and more. My wife nearly passed out when she seen fed ex and ups arriving at the door with box after box.
I plan on keeping you guys informed on the build and asking for info along the way.






IMG_1769.jpg
IMG_1770.jpg
I plan on keeping you guys informed on the build and asking for info along the way.






IMG_1769.jpg
IMG_1770.jpg
Looks nice, too bad we have to gut the big ones to get our A bodies a big block.... Good thing they made a ton of em! I question that long shaft turbo 400... is that going into the 72 Cutlass? You will need a custom driveshaft for that to work.
Yes, The whole set up is going in the 72 cutlass. I already planned for the custom drive shaft. Once I find a reputable shop I'm getting it done asap.
I cleaned the whole engine and tranny using a degreaser and a wire wheel on my drill. I masked off certain areas and really took my time getting in tight spaces. It wasn't hard, just time consuming.
I used GM blue from dupli color. It's almost a match to the color on going to paint the car.
I cleaned the whole engine and tranny using a degreaser and a wire wheel on my drill. I masked off certain areas and really took my time getting in tight spaces. It wasn't hard, just time consuming.
I cleaned the whole engine and tranny using a degreaser and a wire wheel on my drill. I masked off certain areas and really took my time getting in tight spaces. It wasn't hard, just time consuming.
Anything you don't want painted or paint in cover up. HaHa.
Contact South Bay driveline in San Jose if you don't mind a drive. He put a new shaft together for me last year. Bring your yoke with you and he'll install it on the new shaft. TH400 yokes are a bit hard to come by.
Will do. I've heard of them before. Do you remember about how much was the cost?
Terrific job. I'm in the exact same position and will be attacking my 455 with the tranny attached as well. I have my brother to help me out but I'm very curious as to how you got that tranny to look so awesome. Can you outline what you did on that sucker? What paint did you use because there appears to be a sheen on it. Very nice work.
Terrific job. I'm in the exact same position and will be attacking my 455 with the tranny attached as well. I have my brother to help me out but I'm very curious as to how you got that tranny to look so awesome. Can you outline what you did on that sucker? What paint did you use because there appears to be a sheen on it. Very nice work.
I was surprised that it came out so well also.
You can try "Drive Line Service" in San Leandro. They are on Teagarden st. (510)-352-3500
I would pull the oil pan and clean the crud out of it and install a new oil pump.
Gene
I would pull the oil pan and clean the crud out of it and install a new oil pump.
Gene
Last edited by 64Rocket; May 23, 2011 at 09:49 PM.
Nice Find projectheaven. I think I have that exact motor. I thought it was a 68 motor, but after some cleaning and getting to the # on the left of the block, 30X102488 means its a 70 made in KS. Also has E heads and a 2bbl intake # 384785, non EGR. Mine didn't come with some of the accesories like Alternator and PS pump. It is possible to get a pic of yours with the brackets on the front of the motor, or a pic of the brackets not on the motor so I know what to look for?
hotrodpc, if you are pulling the 350 for the 455. everything from the 350 will work on the 455. Either use the water pump from the 350 or make sure the 455 has the same length pump and all your pulleys will line up. Also use the 350 motor mounts or get new ones with part #2261.
same goes for bummerino, use the mounts for the 400 not the 455. Of which are the same part number #2261. Also if you have the brkts they fit also for your accessory's. Again make sure the water pump is the same length for your pulleys.
Gene
same goes for bummerino, use the mounts for the 400 not the 455. Of which are the same part number #2261. Also if you have the brkts they fit also for your accessory's. Again make sure the water pump is the same length for your pulleys.
Gene
Last edited by 64Rocket; May 27, 2011 at 08:45 AM.
LOL!!! You are right my friend. I'm installing the new cam,lifters,push rods and intake tomorrow.Along with the brackets and everything assembled. I'll post pics
hotrodpc, if you are pulling the 350 for the 455. everything from the 350 will work on the 455. Either use the water pump from the 350 or make sure the 455 has the same length pump and all your pulleys will line up. Also use the 350 motor mounts or get new ones with part #2261.
same goes for bummerino, use the mounts for the 400 not the 455. Of which are the same part number #2261. Also if you have the brkts they fit also for your accessory's. Again make sure the water pump is the same length for your pulleys.
Gene
same goes for bummerino, use the mounts for the 400 not the 455. Of which are the same part number #2261. Also if you have the brkts they fit also for your accessory's. Again make sure the water pump is the same length for your pulleys.
Gene
Very nice looking engine. You are going to be very unhappy the first time you scratch that nice blue paint when you put in the cam and lifters, but nothing a little touch up won't fix.
64 rocket (gene) thanks for the advice. When I got the car the frame mounts were still on the frame and when I installed the 455 I believe I used 455 motor mounts and it installed fine. Are you saying I should use the 400 motor mounts?
As for brackets, this car came with zero accessories, only the water pump and alternator to worry about . I am waiting delivery of the clutch fork and she goes back in
As for brackets, this car came with zero accessories, only the water pump and alternator to worry about . I am waiting delivery of the clutch fork and she goes back in
bummerino, I'm not really sure why there is so much trouble. It may be a mix and match of the different years, From what I have seen, it has been '67 and older and '68 to 72. It is hard to say what happen when you installed your engine. Maybe something was changed before you pick up the car. You should have used the mounts #2261. Now if you used the pulleys on the 455 with the brkts from the '66, then yes there is problems. I would say since you have nothing use brkts for the 455. Did your car have A/C, and is the p/s pump still there?
Gene
Gene
this car is not very optioned out , no a/c , p/s , p/b , p/w , etc. I received the new clutch fork and am sad to say that it is the exactly the same fork that I already had. I am going to put the bell housing back on the engine, then install the clutch linkage see where it hits and break out my grinder...
Olds 455
nice! I just bought a 66 Chevelle with a balanced and blueprinted 455 from a 1970 Olds Toronado - screams! Hooker headers, Torker II intake with new Edelbrock 750, roller rockers, high lift cam, milodon pistons, rings push rods and oil pump, crane cam with Rhodes lifters. Question: the stock timing is between 10 and 14, how about a built? what timing do you have yours set for?
KEvin
KEvin
Sounds like a perfect Street/Strip Car to me. No Vac booster so you can have a biggo cam, no AC compressor or PS Pump to rob any hp, wieght it down, and biggest thing, don't have all the hardware in your way while working on it. And its a 4 speed too !!! Git'R Done !!!
70 Olds,
I would run about 16 to 20 degrees. Start at 16* and keep moving up until it pings then back off 2*. Set your initial and mechanical to a total of 36* to 38*.
Now if you have vacuum, you will have to have a new curve set up.
Gene
I would run about 16 to 20 degrees. Start at 16* and keep moving up until it pings then back off 2*. Set your initial and mechanical to a total of 36* to 38*.
Now if you have vacuum, you will have to have a new curve set up.
Gene
We were just having this discussion on another thread. Its been said the later 350 brackets will not work. Maybe you can step into that thread and shed some light or advice for us. Another member is fighting with this right now on a 350/455 swap. We compared a few pics too. 

if so I prefer "debate" not "fighting" lol...im just one of those that likes to know WHY something doesnt work.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
oldcutlass
The Clubhouse
5
Dec 24, 2014 04:26 AM








.....